Longs Peak- Keyhole Route in Late June

[pctjeff23]

Hi, I am thinking about climbing Longs Peak via Keyhole the last week of June to avoid crowds in the peak season. I would do a camp at the Boulder Field. I understand that this is classified as a technical climb prior to mid-July and presents additional dangers. I am trying to get a gauge on the expected degree of difficulty and how to train properly. My mountaineering experience is limited to a group climb with ropes on Mount Hood. I have basic knowledge of how to use an ice axe and crampons from that climb. My class 3 experience in summer conditions is Mount Wilson, El Diente, Wilson Peak, Snowmass Mountain via East Slopes, Quandry via West Ridge, and Torreys via Kelso Ridge. Considering this experience, how big of a jump in degree of difficulty and risk would Longs via Keyhole be in late June? Is a rope necessary and is it likely that the route markings would be hidden by snow? Are there any particular 14er snow climbs in late May or early June that would help me prepare and increase my skill level with ice axe and crampons? I was thinking either Mt of the Holy Cross via Cross Couloir or Mt Shavano via Angel of Shavano.

[justiner]

No ropes needed, probably some of the bullseyes may be under snow. Your resume is fine. Angel of Shavano would be a good snow climb shakeout - Cross Couloir would be a harder day (in a day) IMHO and maybe with a backpack in somewhat comparable, though I think the Couloir is harder than anything on the Keyhole route - it's been a while, but that thing seemed steep.

The crux will be the camping at such a high camp at the Boulderfield. It can get cold/windy.

[Wimyers]

My first 14er (and also my first time outside) was Long’s peak the last week of June 2016 and it was dry and crowded. Every year is different, but I’m sure you’ll be fine.

[pctjeff23]

Thanks justiner and Wimyers.

[ltlFish99]

There are some nice couloirs on James peak, and Skywalker on Douth Arapahoe is a LOT of fun.