Peak:  "T 0" (13er)
 Route:  Eider Creek TH, over Campbell
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  CarpeDM
 Date of Info:  08/24/2019
 Date Posted:  08/24/2019

More of a route description than conditions report. But I didn't want to do a full trip report. This route is much like the one described in trip reports by Chicago Transplant and Doug62. I just happened to find the 4wd road which cut out the bushwhacking section that they did, but put me a bit further from the ridge crest.

First, conditions were great: no snow, no avy debris, no logs to step over.

I just want to plug starting at the Eider Creek TH, which is a signed, beautiful class 1 trail starting at the 1st switchback up the Mill Creek road. Room for a few cars. Several good campsites here as well. Follow the trail until it intersects the Deep Creek trail, where you hang a left. Keep going on that (also awesome) class 1 trail until you come to an old, overgrown 4wd road and you can see Campbell through the trees on your right. (It'll take longer than you think it should, but it's obvious.) Follow the 4wd road up until it ends. You'll quickly run into a short angled slab section. I went left to skirt it and kept going up steep grass and dirt steps to make my way to the ridge to Campbell on climber's right. You may be able to find some game trails to help with this. It does get a little junky as you cross some loose rock, but I think this is probably the best way to do T0. It minimizes bushwhacking and minimizes gain on the way down. At the slabs, you _may_ be able to climb them directly or circle around the trees to the right (in pic2) to get on the ridge and avoid some of the loose rock. The ridges are mainly dinner plates, but well stacked - footing is generally good.

The scrambling section is about 150 feet of class 3+/easy 4. It's _fairly_ solid.

All in all, this was much more pleasant than many bicents I've done, and definitely better than I expected given the nightmare accounts I've heard from others who took other routes.

Photos (click for slideshow):
#1) Old 4wd road as it crosses Deep Creek trail#2) Looking up from near the end of the 4wd road#3) Looking back at the end of the road, coming out of the trees at center of pic#4) Looking up Campbell’s ridge#5) Nearing the scrambling section (it’s easy to unlock the route)#6) Looking up T0 itself#7) Approximate route

Comments or Questions
Thank you.
08/25/2019 07:53
This is very helpful. I am planning on this peak later this September.

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