Peak:  Middle Peak (13er)
 Route:  Southeast Ridge
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  supranihilest
 Date of Info:  11/03/2019
 Date Posted:  11/04/2019

There is no trail from Dolores County Road 52 up either Dolores Peak or Middle Peak. Bushwhack north up Fish Creek drainage and as the terrain steepens stay on the west side of the creek. There's anywhere from no snow to a couple of inches of snow in spots in the forest. If you find yourself climbing northeast steeply through the forest or northeast on steep scree you're in the wrong place. If you're still in the drainage and below large cliffs you're in the wrong place. In both cases go down creek a little but and then west and north on easier terrain. The first difficult terrain you should encounter is a large, somewhat steep talus field on the western side of the drainage - exposure should be minimal and the creek will be obvious in a gorge to the east. Once above treeline snow coverage is minimal and can mostly or entirely be avoided until the summit ridge. Climb towards the Dolores/Middle saddle and turn west towards a broad, open slope of scree and talus. Climb this to the summit ridge and then climb northwest along the narrow ridge to the big bump in the middle - this is the true summit. The summit ridge has a lot of snow on it and is quite exposed but the difficulty is all Class 2.

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