The Eureka! couloir is in perfect shape. Follow Hermit Pass Road to the signed trailhead and then continue straight ahead up a steep headwall. This is the first snow climb on the route and can be avoided by going higher on the road. At the top stay on the lower of two benches, the higher is sidehilly. Gear up at the base of the couloir then fire that sucker! Make a mental map of the couloir before going up, as there are several branches that go nowhere and it snakes around. With exception of the last 50 feet snow on the entire couloir was styrofoam to hard styrofoam, no mushy crap, no ice, no rock hard slab. Plenty of spindrift which has undoubtedly filled my tracks. The upper 50 feet was airy, icy, sugary garbage and hard to get purchase in. Some clawing my way up. I continued on to Hermit, Rito Alto, and 12,671, but you could down climb the couloir. Beware, it's pretty consistent in the 40-something degree range and the top is probably 50+.
Gear: I wore trail runners from the bottom of the road to 11,300 feet, then put on boots and snowshoes. I wore snowshoes to the bottom of the couloir then switched to crampons and axe. I would say flotation, axe, and traction are all mandatory.
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