Peak:  Eureka Mountain A (13er)
 Route:  Eureka Couloir
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  d_baker
 Date of Info:  04/30/2021
 Date Posted:  04/30/2021
Details

Similar conditions as reported by supra Ben Funkstein.

Of note, we drove a little beyond the forest service boundary, to approximately 9400' and parked in a less than ideal pullout for car camping. It worked with rocks under our tires.

Slightly beyond this point, there's a boulder in middle of road that we didn't want to try to squeeze by, but others have. Continuous snow starts around 9800' but it's smooth sailing thanks to a groomer and other motorized vehicles that appear to track it during the winter.
(Evidence of groomers near treeline along Hermit Pass Rd.)

We didn't go to Hermit Lake, and instead stayed on the road, given the track, and turned off at a higher point (11,880') and traversed to upper bench, below the climb.
~3.5hrs to base of climb (@ 6:30ish).
~2hrs in couloir.
Descended NW ridge, and then slopes between Hermit and the bump to its S.

11+ mile day, ~4250' gain.

Snow conditions on approach firm, didn't use snowshoes until after leaving road, and then again on our de-proach.
Conditions in couloir boot top deep, in most places. Hiking boots with strap-ons worked well for the two of us today.
Point releases by 11am, with today's temps.

Fun climb! Sam measured about 40° near the top.



Photos (click for slideshow):
#1) Approach#2) I snowshoed across this slope, and Sam opted for crampons. (I already had snowshoes on, kept them on.)#3) Approaching couloir apron#4) kicking steps#5) after dogleg, straight ahead finish#6#7) at topout#8) summit from our topout#9) looking down couloir from our topout#10) Our topout to right and below of climber on summit. I think Ben topped out on the snow near directly below climber on summit.#11) 14ers#12) Point releases, including along apron and next to our steps of our climb.


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