Great conditions! I was surprised that the Southwest Chimney (standard route) was in the shade in the morning even around 10 when we got there, because I understood it to be a S facing wall, rather than SW. Made it a little chilly to start in heavy wind. I took the left variation on P1 which protected well with a 5 (probably optional) and single rack. Loose rock was not nearly as bad as I had feared with everything I read, but still check every hold! Mountain project says to bring double ropes for the rappel from the notch, but we were able to rappel all the way from the notch and skip the intermediate rappel with one 70. If you used the intermediate rappel, a 60 would probably be fine. The most frightening part was the P2 (death scree) pitch, very minimal protection available there!
Photos (click for slideshow):