Peak:  Lizard Head (13er)
 Route:  Southwest Chimney
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  slawrence2011
 Date of Info:  08/22/2021
 Date Posted:  08/23/2021

Great conditions! I was surprised that the Southwest Chimney (standard route) was in the shade in the morning even around 10 when we got there, because I understood it to be a S facing wall, rather than SW. Made it a little chilly to start in heavy wind. I took the left variation on P1 which protected well with a 5 (probably optional) and single rack. Loose rock was not nearly as bad as I had feared with everything I read, but still check every hold! Mountain project says to bring double ropes for the rappel from the notch, but we were able to rappel all the way from the notch and skip the intermediate rappel with one 70. If you used the intermediate rappel, a 60 would probably be fine. The most frightening part was the P2 (death scree) pitch, very minimal protection available there!

Photos (click for slideshow):

Comments or Questions
08/23/2021 11:20
Great work! When you say you climbed the left variation, did you climb the wall to the left of the chimney or the chimney itself? Either way, smart move avoiding the face on the right

08/23/2021 12:06
The Chimney itself. The first half of the first pitch was more like a wide crack on the left and the face on the right, of which I took the wide crack. The second half of the first pitch was a chimney on right and face on the left with a Piton. I clipped that Pin and extended it, but ended up sticking with the chimney, mainly because they feel so secure!

08/23/2021 14:28
I went out on the face and regretted it. Loose rock, questionable pro, and zigging rope that made me have to separate the first into 2 pitches. I think you made a much better call. Great work on the summit!

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