Peak:  "The Unicorn" (13er)
 Route:  Southeast Ridge from Summit Peak via CDT
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  supranihilest
 Date of Info:  05/31/2022
 Date Posted:  06/01/2022

Taking the CDT under Summit Peak's north face there's still tons of snow but there's a boot pack across it and traction isn't needed. Some further snow and mud along the trail. The entire peak itself is dry, upper part is a bit loose. Like HikerGuy I crossed over to the lower summit, went down the north ridge, and just before the large cornice dropped east down short, extremely loose Class 3 ledges to extremely loose talus/dirt/scree and hardpan. Going back down the southeast ridge to the CDT is probably easier. No snow gear needed.

Photos (click for slideshow):
#1) "The Unicorn" and Montezuma Peak from Summit Peak.#2) Crossing under the north face of Summit Peak.#3) Looking back across the north face.#4) Southeast ridge of "The Unicorn".#5) Little summit block.#6) Short scramble to the summit.#7#8) Looking down the north ridge. The cornice looks small but it’s actually enormous.#9) Super junk I came down to avoid the cornice.

Comments or Questions
You da best
06/04/2022 19:44
Thank you for this report and information - hope to see you again sometime, with blazintoes

No problem
06/06/2022 10:17
Glad to help, Reggie, hope you got this one (or all three)! I'm sure Whiley and I will be climbing with Amy this summer, hope to see you then too!

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