Peak:  Peak Fifteen (13er)
 Route:  South Couloir via Ruby Basin
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Wildernessjane
 Date of Info:  07/11/2022
 Date Posted:  07/12/2022
Details

Summited Peak Fifteen from Ruby Basin. There was snow in the scree/approach gully but it was avoidable. The lower half of the couloir was pretty wet in sections but doable. Took the Garrett and Martin variation instead of the standard slabs, which was easy enough to locate thanks to the Chicago Transplant's Summitpost picture (many thanks!). Used Metolius UL cams #7 and 8 in the first anchor and #1 and small black Tricam in the second (would take a third small peice if doing it again and bringing up followers - #2 was too big). I also used a couple small/medium sized pieces (#2 or 3 and 5 to protect my seconds on the traverse). We used a 60 meter half rope folded over, which was great for the first pitch but needed to simul a short distance to get to a decent anchor on the second. Leader is basically soloing the crux section but rock quality was pretty good here, especially relative to the rest of the mountain, and it is short. We reinforced/backed up a couple of the rappel anchors and carried out some old tat. I would recommend taking some extra webbing and examining the conditions of the anchors. Storms are building really fast right now. We had clear skies on the summit but got rained/hailed on as we were scrambling down to the last rappel station in the couloir. Fortunately the storm moved through pretty quickly. I also think this gave us better traction on the approach/scree gully as this descent was much more pleasant than expected.


Photos (click for slideshow):
#1#2


Comments or Questions
Will_E
User
Nice!
07/12/2022 11:17
You‘re my hero! Hope to get up there sometime.


climbingcue
User
Congrats
07/12/2022 13:16
We were supposed to take a shot at 15 July 4th weekend. The weather report looked terrible so we headed to the Tetons instead. Totally the right call, looking forward to another go next month.


zootloopz
User
Way to go
07/12/2022 13:37
We‘re you in the group of 4 I ran into on the way down the ruby trail? Nice work!!



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