|Peak:||Jagged Mountain (13er)|
|Route:||Standard - from Sunlight Creek|
|Posted By:||Chicago Transplant|
|Date of Info:||08/06/2022|
Crux 1: 4th class route is wet, we went basically straight up the rappel at ~5.4. Placed one #5 Metolius Master Cam. Sometimes the handholds are kind of behind you. Anchor was in good shape, multiple stands of webbing. Appx 85'.
Crux 2: We did an awkward chimney shimmy against the wall, no protection. 8 foot "2 move wonder" climbing but the anchor is higher up. Single webbing but in good shape, we did not double it up. Rap off that anchor is Appx 75'?
Crux 3: Took the left option ~5.2, no protection. Awkward mantle at top with a grass hold for the right hand and gravel palm hold on the left. Anchor was good here as well, but I can't remember its construction. Did not check out the right option. Maybe 25-30'.
In between the cruxes the ledges are more gravelly than the first time I did this peak due to more traffic over the years, this can be a positive (less wet grass after a rain) or negative (looser than grass).
After the Notch:
Go up left directly up (stiff 4, tricky to downclimb with blind feet), go behind a flake and down a narrow chimney to get on the ledge. Step around a bulge and to the base of the summit chimney. The new chockstone in that chimney makes this canyoneering at 13,750'. Did an elevator technique, back on the left wall, feet on the right and shimmy up until you can sit on the smaller chockstone to get over. The moves are weird, and watch your head! Not sure how to grade it honestly but aside from the crux move on pitch 1 it was the hardest thing we did all day. Rope will catch in the slot between the chockstones. One last exposed slab step around move right below the summit with thin holds, you have to downclimb this move as well to get to the anchor. Do NOT rap the chimney, instead rap to the ledge at the point before the bulge move, it will make sense when you are there - you can see a wide grass/gravel eddy in the ledge. Rope pull is clean this way and won't catch in the chockstone. Anchor was two cords and webbing, the cords are getting near the end of life and may need replacement soon.
I have no pictures except for on the summit, sorry. Group of 2 so I was either climbing, belaying, or rappeling at each crux and didn't have a free hand for pics.
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