Peak:  Lizard Head (13er)
 Route:  SW chimney
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  sstratta
 Date of Info:  03/28/2015
 Date Posted:  03/29/2015

Route is 95% snow-free. Mostly posting this because I figured someone might want to see a Sneffels/Wilson group photo.
First photo: Sneffels
Second photo: Wilsons, L to R: South Wilson, Mount Wilson, Gladstone, Wilson Peak
Third photo: Lizard Head (route not shown)
I've got other pictures of the route itself and close-ups of the surrounding peaks with more detail, send me a message if you'd like to see those.

Comments or Questions
03/29/2015 23:52
I’m not sure what we’re looking at for aspect on Sneffels. What is the long obvious couloir that angles r. to l. toward the summit?
I’m assuming you summited LH?

03/30/2015 02:07
that’s the NW face from hwy 62 heading towards 145. I added a zoomed–out photo of the area where I took the picture. I’m not totally sure what that couloir first I thought it was the snake couloir but after looking at some photos I’m not too sure?? maybe someone else on here knows, I’ve never climbed that route before. It looks awesome though! I mostly included it in case someone was wondering how much snow was up there. And yes we did summit Lizard Head.

03/30/2015 02:32
I think the top part of the obvious couloir is the top part of the snake, the lower part cannot be seen. Someone correct me if i’m wrong

03/30/2015 10:47
Thanks for clarifying the Sneffels photo. I thought you had taken the photo from Lizard Head area! Now it makes sense!

Congrats on your climb!

03/30/2015 19:23
Would love to see pics of the route. Any encounters with water or ice?

Yep, Gueza.
03/30/2015 21:50
You can see the upper dog leg portion of he Snake (the portion that faces northwest). The lower NE facing portion cannot be seen. That’s the NW Couloir leading up to the col at the bend in the Snake.

Sarah, nice work on the Lizard! Way to go! Did you like the SW Chimney route?

03/31/2015 15:25
for clarifying the Sneffels photo you guys. That NW couloir looks fun too (the lower part before it meets up with the snake)...maybe it’s not as cool as the snake though since I can’t find any info on it!? Anyways, Evolve I’ll send you some pictures of the route. No snow or ice, just some snow on the class 3 portion (you can go around it and stay on class 4) and a little bit here and there in the chimneys (avoidable if you use the right holds). Thanks Brandon, it was a pretty awesome climb! the route actually wasn’t as loose as I thought it’d be. The belay stations kinda put me on edge (no pun intended), but the climbing itself was fun – we stayed in the chimneys the entire time and it was a good mix of different stuff – hand jams, offwidth, chimneys, etc. I thought it was a little harder than 5.8 at times...but that’s usually how I judge ratings, haha. Hope you and your new baby are doing well!!!

Great to hear, Sarah!
03/31/2015 17:10
Glad you enjoyed the Lizard, Sarah. I really did too. Not as loose as I expected as well. And, I’m with ya on the ratings. There were a few moved that were 5.8+/5.9– in my book Baby Sawyer is great. She has definitely won my heart Taking her rock climbing a lot with us, which is great family outing time.

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