Torreys Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-08-01, By: EndWillows
Info: As the previous report said, Kelso Ridge is in great condition. Snow free. Very fun route with some enjoyable climbing, would do again. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-28, By: Kris_G
Info: Kelso Ridge in great condition. No snow on the ridge whatsoever. Fun! Drove up the road to the trailhead in Subaru Outback without issues. At 0.5 miles keep all the way to the right if in car with low clearance (I managed to get through like that in a passenger car few days prior). We got to the trailhead parking at 5:30am and the upper parking by the outhouse was full. The ridge conditions can be seen in our short clip from the scramble here https://youtu.be/4yV7a2Yy-co 
1
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-15, By: Swelchy
Info: Bluebird day, started at 0415. Our car was too low to make it over the pot holes about 0.5 miles up, but we hitched a ride up to the trailhead. Got up to the parking lot by 0500, and by then the parking lot was almost completely full. The ridge was snow free to the top, full summer conditions, and only a couple of other groups on it today besides us. The route was relatively easy to follow, most of the time we just stayed true to the top of the ridge and found our way just fine. We made it to the Torreys summit by 0835, then hit the Grays summit by 0930, then we hiked down and hitched another ride down to the car, back by 1130. I managed to toss my phone off the knifes edge into the top of Dead Dog Couloir, no chance of down climbing to it and I didn't have any snow equipment, so I left it behind. I would post pictures but they're all on the phone. I'm thinking it's a goner, but, if you plan on doing Dead Dog Couloir (or already did it when you read this) and end up finding an iPhone 13 in a black case near 14,000', please message me, it would be much appreciated. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-02, By: Jack_H
Info: Snow is entirely avoidable all the way up. The only time we had to deviate from the route was to avoid the section in what I believe was "Photo 25" in the route description which was still somewhat filled with snow. We brought a large flag up because, one, it's about to be 4th of July, and, two, why not. The weather was much better than forecasted. 
15 3
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2022-07-01, By: RolfLundmark
Info: Road status to upper lot: SO rough! I'm talking crazy bumpy. Allow 30 minutes from I-70 to upper lot. Arrived lot at 05:10 and only 1/4 full. Primitive toilets available. Enough light to prep and begin hiking at 05:20 without headlamps. 42° F and no clouds. Beautiful hike up Grays: Superbly maintained trail, well marked, and encountered a trail crew about 2/3 way up. Summit at 07:30. 22° and wind. No clouds and breathtaking views. Took 40 minutes to go down and up the saddle to Torreys. 30° at top and a lot less wind Went through the snowfield off the saddle without much difficulty. No spikes/no poles and only had to be crazy careful in two spots with sloping ice. Do not recommend either. No postholing. Back to upper lot at 10:20. There were still a handful of parking spots available. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-22, By: fancyco
Info: Kelso ridge in great shape, snow is entirely avoidable to the summit 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-20, By: brittonthomas
Info: Kelsey ridge is in fine shape. A little wet in spots. No snow to speak of until above the knife edge. Minimal snow from the knife to the summit. It appears that Dead Dog would still go. Maybe not for much longer. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-12, By: Dignus
Info: Ridge is in great shape. Minimal snow crossings above 13,000, snow entirely avoidable on the knife edge. One small slick patch of black ice. Easy packed steps leading up to the summit. Intermittent snow and water on the standard trail. Not worth bringing traction; gaiters might be helpful. Video just shows knife edge crossing. https://youtu.be/wsHB078CpRs 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-06-05, By: eddiffendal
Info: Climbed Dead Dog today. Conditions were absolutely perfect. Started up the Couloir at 6a and summit maybe 7:30a - rocks started shedding just as we were topping out. It was definitely getting mushy at the top. 
1
Route: Southpaw Couloir
Posted On: 2022-06-05, By: Crestoner
Info: Visual beta...from yesterday. Big-ass cornice at the top. A couple of boarders got a nice ride in there. 
1
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-06-05, By: Crestoner
Info: Visual beta...from yesterday. I didn't see any climbers in the DDC. 
1
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-06-05, By: PDavis
Info: Road is clear of snow to the summer trailhead. Lots of wet avy debris in the Couloir in the morning while we were climbing, but by late morning after we went over to Grays and back down it looked like a lot of the avy debris was smoothing out from the sun. Got to the base of the Couloir about 5:20 and the snow was good and solid the entire way. 
9 2
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-06-03, By: truekyle
Info: I climbed up Dead Dog today. Went very well and snow is in full. Started 0445 on summit at 0850. PSA WEAR A HELMET. Several rocks flew right past me on my climb. I was on edge all day. As for skiing, the group I talked to dropped in dead dog just after 9. sounded to me like it was great timing but any later would be dangerous. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-28, By: Emil128
Info: Could not have ridden these lines under better conditions. Snow was incredible. Couloir held nicely. Dropped in at 930 on dead dog and 1130 on NE face of Grays. Road to the trailhead is open! Snowshoes / ski / Splitboard highly reccommended. 95% of trail is snow. Photos included 
6
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-16, By: campion
Info: Road to TH clear until the last .2 miles. On the couloir by 6 am (I wouldn't start any later). Great snow conditions, no Avi danger and minimal winds on the summit. Enjoyed a 1000 ft. glissade down from the saddle, and post-holed only for the last portion. Get out there, it's amazing right now! 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-05-15, By: daway8
Info: Kelso Ridge is melting out really fast. Much of the route is already totally dry but some patches of snow left in shaded pockets, including a couple in the steep class 3 sections but there were good enough steps already kicked into the snow that it wasn't an issue. Much of the snow in the lower part could have probably been avoided with some slightly more difficult scrambling. Snow didn't really become continuous until all the way up at the mini Knife Edge which isn't even a knife edge at the moment. There's so much snow on either side that you can stroll right over it. Might not have even noticed it except for the white rock fin behind it. After that there were some steep snowfields to the summit. Probably wouldn't have been a bad idea to have put on some manner of traction at that point but I was too lazy and made it fine without. The snow was just barely soft enough at 11:30am for my boots to get some purchase. Noted several folks skiing down the right side (Emperor Couloir I believe) as well as ski tracks on the left (Dead Dog Couloir I believe). There were signs of some minor slides down closer to the bottom of Kelso Ridge. After going over to Grays I was able to do a 1,000+ ft glissade down into the bowl and was pleasantly surprised that the snow in the basin was firm enough to walk on with just boots at 1pm without sinking. Was not so fortunate down lower especially after following tracks that led off the main trail into the #$@&# willows! 
7
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-05-11, By: bsiegs
Info: Successful climb of Kelso Ridge today - great bluebird day. True mixed climbing on Kelso right now -- good amount of both snow and rock. Crampons and axe both helped a lot and are pretty necessary in my opinion. Photos of the ridge included. Post-holed essentially every step on the way back to the TH. Definitely some rough patches along the road, but was able to drive to within 0.2mi of the upper TH with 4wd. 
4 3
Route: Dead Dog & Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2022-05-11, By: Thevirtualsherpa
Info: Dead dog is very in, so is Lost Rat for that matter. Lots of debri in DD making a less than ideal descent unless you are willing to gamble to let it warm up a lot. Tuning Fork is "in" but the east side is almost melted halfway down and the west side requires a few hundred foot downclimb. Dropped around 10:30AM and snow was not very enjoyable. Winds pushed me off the mountain - probably should have let it warm up, a lot more but knew that postholing on way out was going to be all time (it was). Snow was much better up top (2/3 inches of softer windblown snow on crust) but bottom never seemed to warm - icy/chunky and not very enjoyable. Such is spring. Traverse out to Grizzly Gulch Road is all time suffer fest. 
6 5
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-12, By: scott_s
Info: Climbed Dead Dog Couloir + Grays Peak Combo on 05/10. Approach: Left lower TH at 3am, easy going up to upper TH. From upper TH to ~12000' is very soft, not freezing completely overnight so some postholing even in the early am, not enough to motivate me to put on the snowshoes. On the descent around noon, snowshoes were necessary in my opinion, had some snowshoe postholing but it would be a nightmare without. Climb: Started up the base of the couloir around 6:30am, snow was in great condition, frozen and firm all the way up made for comfortable climbing. I wasn't sure how the direct sun on the couloir in the early morning and the recent warm temperatures would affect conditions but I definitely didn't need to be concerned, didn't notice any degradation in the snow as it warmed up. The traverse to Grays was mainly firm powder snow with some exposed rock. Definitely would need at least some form of traction to complete the standard routes. Descended straight down the face under the Grays-Torreys saddle. Didn't note any avalanche conditions at any point during the day. Overall great but tough day, saw 2 others on the trail all day. A little windy in spots but otherwise perfect weather. 
5
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-01, By: Christensenje
Info: Standard route up Torreys, Tuning Fork down (skiing). The road is drivable to Grizzly Gulch Pull off. Able to skin to the trailhead, with one dry patch. With four wheel drive, you can get within 0.1 miles, but there are stuck vehicles currently there, as well as some along the way to that point, so maybe stopping before that is best. Tuning Fork is a bit of a down climb down with snow on top of loose rock, but the gulch is very skiable. The exit at this point has continuous snow back to the cars. 

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