Torreys Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2011-09-12, By: kushrocks
Info: The ridge was awesome. Dry about 3/4 of the way up. The last 1/4 there was snow in spots but the knife edge was dry. The only tricky spot was just past the knife edge where it was iced over in a few spots. BRING MICROSPIKES!!! They were aweseome and we had zero problem with footing going up and down. We went over and tagged Greys after and it was almost comical how many people were commenting on how they should have brough microspikes. People were slipping and falling all over the place. I was suprised with the hundreds of people who were unprepared and didnt bring any sort of traction or poles while wearing tennis shoes on snow and ice. FYI Kelso Ridge is Awesome 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2011-07-25, By: metalmountain
Info: We climbed Kelso Ridge (also snagged Kelso Mountain) up to Torrey‘s. It is basically completely snow free accept for one section leading to the knife edge, which was mentioned in a previous trip report. It is on the south side of the tower leading to the knife edge, and you would definitely want an axe to cross it. We went more or less up the east/northeast side of the tower which required some exposed class 3+ type moves, but it seemed relatively solid and made for some fun climbing. Just watch out, a slip on the snowfield or a fall off the snow free side both could have bad results. If anyone has questions just shoot me a PM. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2011-07-15, By: caverdude
Info: Climbed the Dog today. Snow is very hard and crampons/ice axe very necessary. Get an early start!! The rockfall shooting gallery started at 6am. I started hiking just before 4am and stopped at the talus slope in the far right of the overview photo. Climbing commenced at 5:30am and there is lots of noticeable rockfall on the slope, including some really big scary rocks. I stayed to the right of the obvious runnel. There are many steps starting about 1/2 way up so you can climb faster the higher you are. I finished before 7am and really don‘t recommend climbing later than that due to all the rockfall I could hear below me. The worst rockfall section is from about 13,100 to 13,600ft. I don‘t ski or snowboard, but that runnel in the middle coupled with the very icy snow would make life difficult. The snow is continuous all the way to the top and it‘s very hard, so it‘s really in nice shape, just need to start early to avoid the rockfall. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2011-07-13, By: SLKRR
Info: Standard route is almost entirely free of snow on the lower sections. There are just a couple of small snowfields to cross and lots of wet and muddy ground. Several streams cut across the trail, and it is good (though probably not essential) to have waterproof boots. The trail over to the Grays-Torreys saddle cuts across a large snowfield. It is slushy and can be crossed without any special gear, but I found poles to be very helpful. Above the saddle, the ridge is entirely dry. Didn‘t climb Grays, but the switchbacks up the East Slopes appear completely dry as well. 
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2011-07-10, By: candymountain
Info: The road into Grizzly Gulch road is free of snow past the Northwest face of Torreys. There was one giant mud hole that I did not want to take the Tacoma through. Looks like someone else had to get pulled out. Parked here and walked maybe 10 minutes uphill to stream crossing into couloir. Continuos snow from near the bottom to maybe 150 vertical feet from summit. Snow was good if you stay skier left all the way down. Started a few point release wet slides that moved at a snail's pace. 2 inches deep at most. Great Day even though we started late, about 0630. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2011-07-02, By: nmg5038
Info: Solo‘d the Kelso Ridge route today. The route from the base of the ridge until you reach the "Knife‘s Edge" is nearly snow free. There are several places where some little snow has obscured the path. It was so much so, that I got myself into several unwanted difficult class 3+ climbs with LOTS of exposure to my back. Anyways, after you reach the "Knifes Edge," there is a deep snowpack from the "Dead Dog Couloir" It still is running along the "Knifes Edge" all the way to the top of Torreys Peak and is roughly 4 ft in depth along the Ridge. I would highly recommend following the slight boot pack in it (you‘ll find where my leg sunk). 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2011-07-01, By: pklotzbach
Info: Just wondering if anyone has information on the snow conditions on the West Ridge route to Torreys/Grays from Loveland Pass. I‘m thinking of running/hiking that on Sunday. I know the East slopes route still has a significant amount of snow, and figure that there may be snow on the N/E sides of the ridge, but am hoping/thinking that the ridge itself and/or the S/W sides of the ridge may be relatively snow-free by now, given normal snow accumulation patterns. Thanks for any info anyone can provide. Posted for 
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2011-06-29, By: caverdude
Info: Climbed the left branch of the Tuning Fork on snow to within 300ft of the summit. The last 300ft was pretty loose talus, so the enjoyment factor wasn‘t too high on that section. The total length of the snow climbing is about 2700ft, but it‘s melting fast. The bottom 2/3rds was pretty soft snow, so it‘s possible to boot up it. The top 1/3 was still pretty icy and crampons were very good. The snow was so hard that the ice axe spike wouldn‘t sink in very far. Probably not too much time left to do this route, before it melts too much. 
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2011-06-27, By: wittsparks
Info: We were able to drive up Grizzly Gulch to within about a mile of the base of tuning forks before getting stopped by snow - another week of melt or some shovel work should allow you to get all the way in. We parked just before the road crosses to the north side of the creek, and on the way in elected to bushwhack along the south side of the creek to avoid wet boots or taking the time to take off our boots (twice, since we‘d have to cross to the north side of the creek to stay on the road, then back to the south side to access the peak.) The hike to the base of tuning forks wasn‘t terribly unpleasant, and if I had it to do over, I‘d probably do it again. The snow was pretty well frozen early in the morning and the climb up was uneventful if long. We made it to almost the top of the continuously skiable snow at about 13,500‘. It took us about 5.5 hours to make the climb. Weather was excellent with a few gusty winds. The top quarter of the drop was pretty hard snow; it softened up nicely below that for some excellent corn skiing. This was the first time I‘d done this drop, and although the climb was long and steep, so was the descent! ~2500 vertical feet of consistent 35 degree slope. We were able to ski all the way to creek, where we waded across in our ski boots and hiked the 20 minutes back to the car. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2011-06-27, By: One Sierra Charlie
Info: Climbed the Emperor, skied the Dead Dog, skinned back up, skied out on the Emperor. The Emperor Couloir is still very well filled in and is perfect for booting. The upper section remained somewhat icy even when descending at 10:30. The middle and lower sections were corned up nicely on the descent. The Dead Dog was great corn snow right from the summit at 8:00. We entered to the skier‘s right of the main line and then dropped into the main about half way down. This upper section was absolutely perfect. The lower section of the Dead Dog proper was runneled and littered with rock. Still a decent ski however. It was possible to skin most of the way from the basin back to the summit on the standard route. There is a good bootpack and lots of folks were charging up in tennis shoes. If you plan to climb or ski the Dead Dog, hit it early. We launched a small slide when probing the upper section on our second lap at 10:30. I would plan to be completely clear of it by 9:00 and even then watch for rapidly warming snow on this east face. 
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2011-06-22, By: caverdude
Info: Attempted the couloir today, but bailed at 13,100ft due to increased rockfall hazard. Started climbing the couloir just before 7am, but the air temperature warmed up really fast and even the shaded snow in the couloir was getting soft. Got hit in the chest by a slow moving rock during the first 800ft, but the very fast moving rocks at 13,100ft were too scary to deal with. Air temp was about 32F when started hiking at 5:30am and the snow on the approach was hard so no postholing. Need to get an early start on this one, especially with the warmer temps coming soon. 
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2011-06-20, By: kansas
Info: Climbed and skied the east fork on Saturday 6-18. We parked before the first stream crossing but you can probably drive another mile or so up the road pretty easily. Snow on the route was a mixed bag until 13k, fresh powder and shin deep breakable crust from 12-13k, above 13k it was rock hard and consistent. If you follow the left fork the snow is continuous all the way to the summit. We waited on top until ~11am for the snow to soften up, skied down the ridge to the entrance for the east fork where the snow was still icy for the first few hundred feet. About halfway down the "Y" we crossed into the west fork and found some amazing snow conditions, ~1,000ft of June powder with some good corn below. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2011-06-16, By: One Sierra Charlie
Info: I climbed the NW Couloir, skied the Dead Dog, lapped back around and skied out on the Tuning Fork. The snow climb is is continuous from the creek to the summit and is in perfect shape. The Dead Dog is in from the summit and is covered with nice, sweet corn. There is a DEEP runnel on the lower section, but you can avoid it. I would only ski (or climb) this route early (before 9:00 AM say) and after a good freeze overnight. The upper sections of theTuning Fork and especially the Emperor contain a very corrugated surface, which did not soften by mid day today. The lower 1/3rd of the Tuning fork was nice corn snow however. A continuous ski descent is not possible via either the Tuning Fork, or via the Grays/Torreys Saddle. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2011-06-13, By: plasticman
Info: Parking begins about 1 to 1.5 miles from Summer trail head. Road has seen great improvements- there is a lot of fallen stone on the road- passable by car but you may have to move some to pull off for another vehicle to pass. Skinned from the car to the base of Dead Dog- any carry sections were for less than 5 minutes. Took the elevator to the summit- be off and out of this before 9am unless you like torture. Saw no rockfall. Only saw 1 small natural sluff go on the right side of the couloir- it was very small and would have barely knocked a squirrel over. Couloir is not in great shape for a great ski descent- lots of runnels and peppered with rockfall in the slop- but you can go top to bottom. Expect a lot of snow coverage on the summer route through 4th of July weekend. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2011-06-05, By: Nelson
Info: I climbed Dead Dog today. The snow was soft and travel was slow. I camped at the trailhead and it took me 3:45 to summit. I was expecting something closer to 3 hrs. The couloir is full of avalanche debris and glissade tracks. The skiing did not look like it would be good so I skied the North Bowl between Grays and Torreys. That was one on the best corn runs I have ever had. I started skiing about 9:15. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2011-04-08, By: jimmtman
Info: Winter closure at Bakerville in effect. Snow general firm on the approach in the AM - by mid PM today it was warm and the snow was soft and snow shoes were helpful. Kelso ridge by 9 AM today was soft and resulted in lots of sinking to the knee or waist. This made climbing on the rocks preferred over the snow. I believe there was some new snow this week and perhaps this contributed to the less than great snow conditions. The snow was firmer on Gray‘s and the regular route on Torrey‘s from Grays even by mid day on the descent. 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2010-11-22, By: RobertPetrowsky
Info: I climbed Sniktau and had a good view of the tuning fork. I thought I would try out the new conditions page and see how this works. The winds above loveland pass are pretty intense. Almost all of the snow on the north faces and west ridge has been stripped off and deposited closer to tree line. The top of the tuning fork was almost completely stripped out by wind. You could climb this peak relatively safely from Loveland right now. Everything to the north of the pass is completely covered outside of the usual windblown areas of Bard and Parnassus. I didn‘t get a chance to check any of the snowpack that was on the east slopes of Sniktau but judging by the faceting I found along the edge of the cornice the snow could be very unstable for some time. 

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