Torreys Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-25, By: cgarrettc
Info: Kelso was pretty slick this morning. I think the rain storm in Summit County brought a little bit of snow and plenty of frost to the ridge last night. It was definitely doable without any problems, but the conditions were not 100%... Quite gnarly. It was my first Class 3 so take it with a grain of salt. No need for spikes or any special gear at the moment but be prepared to slip a bit and have cold hands from holding onto icy, frosty rocks. Probably 90-95% dry compared to the last report. Shouldn't take long to dry out, happy climbing! 
1
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-22, By: Gandalf69
Info: The ridge is 99.9 percent dry. One tiny snowfield after the mini knife edge. Th lot full at 530. Not crowded though. 
10
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2021-06-16, By: SnowAlien
Info: Probably on the last legs, but we managed 2,500 ft continuous ski descent with ~100 ft downclimb off the summit. Central branch didn't look continuous, but the skiers left entrance was still in. The narrowest part was in the middle with the water running under the snow. There are "no parking" signs at Grizzly gulch turnoff. Heard rockfall in Dead Dog around 8 am. Standard hiking route is in great shape, with just a bit of lingering snow at the G&T saddle 
8 2
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2021-06-13, By: Wallowa
Info: Skied the lookers left fork of tuning fork. Coverage is light and the top has some chocolate chips. Topped out at ~830 and descended 845-9AM. The top 80% was very firm despite the warm temps. Only the bottom 20% was sweet corn. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-13, By: nathanmnelson
Info: Agree w some of the previous posters. I think this one is a bit of a hype monster. Majority of the ridge is class two, with few (in my opinion) light class 3 spots w good exposure. Yes, if you're used to sticking to a trail on your hikes this may be a bit intimidating for you. Navigation is straightforward and though there is lots of talus/scree the hand holds on the light climbing sections are solid. I used spikes for the final few hundred feet but the guy ahead of me did it without. Have fun! 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-11, By: dssmith15
Info: Started at 4am and finished at 9:45am. Ascended Kelso and descended standard route. Did not do Grays. Approach was nice. There were a couple of small patches of snow but it was mostly supportive with an occasional posthole. Ridge: BEAUTIFUL day on the ridge. Conditions are great up there. Pretty dry except for the area near 14,000 where you make your way up near smooth rock (photo 23). That turned out to be a bit sketch as the snow didn't seem like a great idea to climb on. We hugged the rock as seen in the picture posted. Our buddy climbed the spine of it and felt okay. Besides that, all the class 3 walls/moves were great and dry. We did put on spikes for the summit push after the mini knife edge as there is still a large snowfield. Descent: saw a few people skiing Grays and a couple skiing dead dog. We traversed across the saddle between grays and torreys rather than find our way around to the trail. Snow was soft but no post-holing and we did not feel the need to spike up. We do have ice axes though so we felt that was enough support. Overall incredible day. Kelso is a blast! 
1
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-09, By: davisruhl
Info: Patches of snow here and there, route finding was simple although the pictured route definitely has at least one section where we opted for a far easier route. Hiking just before the knifes edge was through snow, with the entire left side of the ridge covered. Knifes edge did not live up to its name with the snow pack. Final sprint to the summit is steep hardpack snow. 
6 2
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2021-06-07, By: Trotter
Info: Did dead dog today. Snowshoes are totally unnecessary, at least before noon. Most of the trail is melted out or very hard packed. Couloir has old wet slide activity, but several booters. Definitely some rockfall, both in past and today. We topped out too far left and had some sketchy class 4 rock in crampons, top out right by the kelso ridge white tower to avoid that. Some sweet glissading down from below the saddle of grays and torreys. Minus all the continuous bloodstains where someone hit a rock glissading apparently. 
2
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2021-06-06, By: Eli Watson
Info: Summited Torreys via Emperor Couloir. Moseyed over Grays and out to the car. VeraUndertow's CR is excellent, I just want to add that from a non-skier perspective snowshoes are completely dead weight. Parked my 2WD at I-70. Took my boots off twice for both stream crossings, 10,320' & 10,720'. Some very capable Toyotas and Ford's were able to make it above the second stream crossing. A Taco tried and backed up halfway through the first while I was putting my socks back on. Car said 43 F at I-70. Clear skies overnight meant an excellent freeze when I put my crampons on to get on the snow. Perfect climbing conditions. Snow was still bulletproof in the shady bits when I topped out. Grays is a circus. Tennis shoes and slushy annoying snow abound. Splits for snow conditions: I-70 Parking - 4:03 AM (0:00) Grizzly Gulch turn-off - 4:26 AM (0:23) Bottom of Emperor Couloir - 5:29 AM (1:03) (9 min to put crampons on and eat) Torreys Summit - 7:34 AM (1:55) (26 min) Grays Summit - 8:42 AM (0:42) (8 min) Grays TH - 10:07 AM (1:17) I-70 Parking - 10:47 AM (0:40) Total - 6:44 12.24 mi, 4937' Photo 1: Grays from Torreys. Photo 2: Upper Emperor Couloir. Photo 3: Entering Emperor Couloir. 
3 2
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-05, By: longlevi823
Info: Successful summit of Torreys via Kelso Ridge today. Started on upper trailhead at 5AM and summited around 9:40ishAM. Snow is clear on the 4WD road however some patches of ice are towards the upper portion. Was in a party of 4 (including self). 2 solo people and 1 group of 2 passed us on the way up. However, the group of 2 turned back just a ways out from the knife edge due to snow conditions and not being prepared for that. There were a couple of dicey spots towards the top and a lot of cornices, however they are easily avoidable. Even with the high temps today the snow was staying firm in the morning. Crampons were not necessary but I had them anyways. Would recommend an ice axe. A lot of skiers coming up and down Emperor Couloir. We decided to go and get Grays as well, but when heading towards Grays we saw storm clouds forming. So decided to go ahead and end the day and descended the south slopes route that connects into the north slopes route. When coming down the slopes witnessed two separate avalanches a good bit to the left of Dead Dog Couloir. Unsure if from a collapsing cornice or wet slide activity. Overall a good day and a lot of people coming out to get the peaks. 
4
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2021-06-04, By: VeraUndertow
Info: 4 am start from the road split of Stevens gulch and Grizzly, easily could have driven my stock Tacoma another mile up the road. A couple creek crossings on the road, the first one was the worst and we took our shoes of and walked barefooted. Made it to the base of the line around 5:30 AM and started booting up after putting on crampons and getting out our ice axes. The freeze was not super strong until 12,500' but the snow was decently supportive. We climbed up the snow 99% of the way and stayed climbers right of the main line to gain the ridge faster, since the snow in the sun was getting harder to climb as it heated and softened up, but the snow on the ridge was perfect to climb since the wind was keeping the snow cooler. Summited around 9:30 and started skiing not to long after, the top 200 feet was a little firm but skiable before the first steep drop. From here the skiing was incredible hero corn for 3000 feet. A few little technical spots but mostly just really pleasant snow and great turns down to the bottom of the couloir. When we got back to our cars, Clear Creek Sheriff had left us all an $87.50 ticket for parking in a spot that was not marked as no parking. 
5
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2021-06-02, By: climbingyogi
Info: Road Status: I saw Subarus, Jeeps, 4Runners, and trucks at the summer trailhead. Although I talked to a Subaru owner on the summit and she said she thought she bottomed out once on the snow. I imagine that the end of the road will finish melting out relatively soon, as there was still some snow in the last 1/2 mile or so. Hike: Started hiking the road from I-70 at 5:30am. I got to the summer trailhead at 6:40am. There's still quite a bit of snow on the trail, with a few dry sections as well. The snow was pretty firm and supportive, and stayed that way most of the day - thanks to some cloudiness. I found trekking poles to be very helpful on the south slopes for balance and support. I wore spikes the whole way up, but they were probably unnecessary. Moving up the south slopes with snow was way more time consuming than I anticipated, and almost everyone seemed slowed down there. Once I got up to the saddle, things eased up. The rest of the trail to the summit is a mixture of snow and rocks. We had great weather today and the summit wasn't too windy either. Got to the summit around 9:30am. The hike down was pretty smooth sailing. There was a little bit of post holing at the end, but I was also hiking pretty carelessly and it probably could've been avoided. Got back to summer trailhead around 11:30am I believe. There were quite a few hikers and skiers out - surprisingly packed for a weekday. 
1
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2021-05-31, By: AndyFromDenver
Info: I hit the trail from the top of Loveland Pass at about 5:15 a.m. The way out to Torreys and Grays over Cupid and Grizzly was no trouble. Snow was hard crusted and solid--no postholing, no traction needed. I reached Grizzly Peak just after 7 a.m. The descent down and then up the ridge to Torreys was very easy--again, hard, thick crust with easy footing. I summitted Torreys just after 9 a.m. and then headed over to Grays in about 40-45 minutes. This is when the the snow conditions started to soften, around 10 a.m. Everything was very easy until this point. The weather was perfect. No wind, sun, and only three other people on the summit of Torreys and I had Grays all to myself. Never had that before, probably won't ever have that again. The descent from Grays wasn't too bad, though, but was starting to get a bit slick. I had crampons, but never put them on during the day. They may have helped a bit, but I was also concerned the snow could clump in them so I didn't bother. Nonetheless, it still wasn't too difficult until the ascent back up Grizzly. Even descending Torreys, that W/NW side still hadn't had a ton of direct sunlight yet so I was able to cruise down pretty easily (would've been great skiing with good cover and there were two skiers heading down the north side of Torreys from the summit). But heading up Grizzly, this is when the curse words started flying. That side had been in the sun all morning and was getting very soft. There was a lot of postholing up to my waist. To make matters worse, I was trying to beat the incoming weather and this was frustrating because I couldn't go fast through the deep, soft snow. I doubt snowshoes would've helped much, but perhaps. It's a pretty steep ascent so they may have slid backwards--no idea, but I didn't have them so it wasn't worth my concern. I re-summitted Grizzly just before noon and at this point, weather was imminent and I was getting pretty nervous. Fortunately, no lightning, just some snow squalls with wind. I lucked out. Footing was decent all the way back from Grizzly. Definitely some slick spots where my crampons might have helped a bit, but I was in too much of a hurry to stop. Altogether, I made the 10.20-mile trip in 8:06. It was a hell of a workout with over 5,500 feet of elevation gain, and all of it above treeline, and the ascent back up Grizzly from Torreys was definitely the worst part of it. I was very fortunate there was no lightning--I generally use the rule of below treeline around noon, but missed that and it could've cost me on this one. Had I skipped Grays, I probably would've made it back before the weather came in, but it was too enticing to not go for it. Egos... 
13 3
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2021-05-26, By: mvandergrift
Info: Snow was firm and supportive at 7 am. Switched from boots to snowshoes around 12'800. Did Torrey's first to avoid the "crowds" heading up to Grays (maybe 8 people). No real trail across Gray's to the saddle, but picked a line and stuck with it. Not surprisingly, the saddle was windy. The South Slope is still fairly snowy but didn't need traction to summit from the saddle. Had the peak to ourselves. Didn't see anyone else ascend the South Slope the entire day. The road to the trailhead is definitely melting. We parked about half a mile from the TH, but could have easily gone further in my stock Wrangler. Still, there are some pockets of deep snow and people did get stuck, so be careful even if you do have high clearance. 
3
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2021-05-25, By: mijoflynn
Info: Didn't go past Grizzly. Just thought I'd post a current pic of Torreys in case anyone was thinking about heading up the west ridge. EDIT: Added pic of Tuning Fork after Skimo's comment. 
2 1
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2021-05-23, By: CO_Wolfe
Info: Good soft snow for almost the whole route from Grizzly creek to the summit. Got fresh snow today and yesterday, and a bunch blew in to the couloir with the wind today. Would recommend putting skins on after the end of the road where you have to cross the creek a the third time. There's still some patches of dry ground after that, but they are manageable. There were several skiers in Emperor's Couloir as well today, looked good. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2021-05-23, By: 123tqb
Info: Some avy debris froze overnight, making for choppy turns, but where the snow is windloaded it's really nice. High wind was a problem for everyone attempting Torreys today, but we thankfully didn't experience it until the summit. 
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2021-05-21, By: macg91
Info: Hiked up the partially snow-covered road starting at the Stevens/Grizzly junction and switched to skis/skins at the summer TH. Climbed Dead Dog but decided not to ski it as the snow stayed frozen all morning due to cloud coverage and the couloir is holding substantial avy debris. Descended Emperor instead which had much better snow for skiing. Tuning Fork also looked to be in good condition. Skied down the upper part of of Grizzly Gulch Road (though lots of bare patches now) then walked the last mile or so back to the car. 
2 1
Route: Emperor & Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2021-05-16, By: seayachter
Info: Drove stock 4x4 truck to the Grizzly Gulch/Grays trailhead split. Don't go any further. Conditions were vary warm, summited just before 10am. Climbed Tuning Fork which seemed to have a wet slide yesterday/last night. Snow became very unconsolidated just at around 13,500ft on Emperor with large roller balls (bigger than a basketball forming), made for a difficult ski down. 
2 1
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 2021-05-09, By: dsr80304
Info: Parked at Stevens/Grizzly junction - no use trying to drive past there now (or ever?). Started skinning about 4:45. Can skin the whole way to Emperor and Tuning Forks - 4-5 dirt patches, 2 required skis off on the return. Got a good view of Emperor and looks nicely filled in - see pic #2. Maybe enough snow to ski through the rock choke, hard to tell for sure from the distance. Also good view of Grizzly Couloir - pic #3 looks great, but with usual giant cornice. Tuning Forks was great. Went climbers left to the ridge, then incoming weather forced us to transition and ski down vs. push to summit. That and being really tired. Snow had froze night before (Fri) which was a big question for us, so wet avy risk was well at bay. The whole thing was a crust with pretty soft cohesionless snow under. Unfortunately never warmed enough to break down the crust, so was jump turn city on the descent! Storm tonight (5/9 + next 2 days) so conditions will somewhat reset. Good day and glad we headed down before the storms rolled through. 
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