Mt. Wilson  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-22, By: tlgold1990
Info: Started at 5am from Kilpacker. Several snow fields to cross. Didn't use spikes there (probably should have) but definitely did on the way back. Was super slick and an ice axe would be great to have. Didn't have mine and wish I would have. Recommend having it for now. Some of the rocks in the gullies are super loose from snow melt but they are clear of snow. Did see one HUGE boulder go flying down the 1st one right before we crossed. Other than the sketchy snowfields and some loose rock, it was a great day!!! Intimidating going up, thinking of coming down, but once we started down, it wasn't too terrible. 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2022-06-20, By: Cide
Info: Traversing from El Diente to Wilson: Small patches of snow in some key areas just below the El D summit warranted just some extra caution in traversing. The area below the Organ Pipes and Gendarmes had no snow/ice considerations. The ascent of the rock formation before heading up Wilson's final gully was full of ice and snow patches (with ice under them). Take extreme caution in holds and footing while maneuvering that. The final gully had a couple inches of snow, nothing concerning. I utilized microspikes to good effect. 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Mt. Wilson in combination with El Diente (no traverse- I used the separate south-side routes for each mountain). From the El Diente split, there is continuous snow all the way to and halfway up the gully just below the summit. I did not summit until 2:30 PM and even then, the snow was mostly supportive. The only place where I sank through significantly was on the steepest headwall below the gully. The upper part of the gully and the final ridge to the summit are dry. I used a short ice axe and strap-on crampons in running shoes and felt secure. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: johlfsj
Info: I started my hike at 5:30AM. There is no snow at the Cross Mt trailhead. I encountered intermittent snow banks and mud from ~0.5 miles to 1.75 miles (11K altitude) where I turned off the trail. Snow banks and slop (water) continued as I bushwhacked through the forest, staying at ~11K altitude. There are a lot of deadfall trees that I climbed over. It was quite challenging trying to maintain an efficient routing and not drop elevation. There were two stream crossings that each required dropping into a significant ravine. I emerged from the trees at an excellent location to continue across a short section of talus staying relatively low through the talus slope. There was almost no snow at this point of the hike. I hiked toward the lower basin of Slate Creek aiming to the south side of the basin (almost no snow in the lower basin unlike picture #8 of the route description). I stayed to the left side of the basin as I climbed up toward the middle basin as I headed toward Gladstone Pk (picture 9 of the route description). This was due to the intermittent snow pack on the route. It turned out to be the best choice of routing. I continued up the left side all the way to the 90 degree left turn toward Wilson Pk (pictures 14-16 of the route description). The snow was relatively hard packed all the way. I used microspikes and hiking poles. The sun-cupping on the snow helped my footing. The final ascent up the couloir was relatively steep as I hiked up the center and then shifted toward the right side along the large rock outcroppings. This was a good move as the steepness increased and my footing was secure on that side. The final class 3 climb was really straight forward with no snow and solid rock. It only took a few minutes. I summited at 9:30AM. The descent from the top of the col was tricky as the snow was getting soft and the sun-cupping complicated my footing. I did fall and slide on one occasion. I had to use my hiking poles to self arrest. I never gained too much speed and I knew I was in a controlled slide as the snow was soft. The decent became easier as the steepness of the slope moderated. On the decent I followed route I took on my accent. I entered the trees at the same point I where I had left the trees earlier. The forest was awful on the return as the snow banks were now soft. Snow shoes would not have helped since the snow was intermittent and there are so many deadfall trees to climb over. Despite not exactly following my route back I did manage to intersect with Cross Mt trail only 15 ft from where I had left the trail on the outbound trip. I got back to the trailhead at 12:30PM (7hr round trip). I wanted to thank the two guys I met on the Cross Mt trail the day before I hiked Mt Wilson. I was doing a short hike that evening to better understand the trail conditions and what to expect and I met those guys as they were returning from Mt Wilson. Their intel was helpful. All in all it was an awesome hike and route. I saw no one else the entire day I did the Mt Wilson hike. What a treat. Btw, I had 4 friends monitoring my hike. They knew my vehicle and license #, what I was wearing and my expected itinerary and times. I texted them from the summit and checked in when I got cell coverage after completing the hike. I was very careful as I was solo hiking. 
11
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-05-28, By: triordie
Info: Mike_C and I summited Mt. Wilson on Wednesday. Cross Mountain trail has patches of snow. After the turn-off in the forest, there is alternating snow/dry making snow shoes useless. We stashed them at the tree line. From tree line, it is dry for the first steep part, then there is mostly snow. Did not put crampons until the last turn under Gladstone. (Boxcar, BTW, looked in great condition). From there there is a continuous snow to the saddle, great snow climb after a cold night. From saddle to the summit absolutely dry. Were not able to glissade due to snow cups. Walking on the snow was easy until the forest where post-holing was annoying. If you are thinking about this route, get it soon, snow is melting fast. 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-05-23, By: slawrence2011
Info: Didn't summit. Approached from Rock of ages, I got my civic all the way to Big Bear creek, I saw a truck drive further, but there is deadfall not much past that. Started at 2 AM, went over the rock of ages saddle and gladstone saddle, and went to the top of the E couloir and hit the ridge. The scramble to the summit looked frightening with a coating of snow on top of the rocks, even after I switched to hiking boots. So I skied down via the Boxcar couloir. Totally bulletproof and full of suncups. Good practice jump turns, I learned there is minimal margin for error for the angle you land when there are suncups! Then traversed back to Gladstone saddle, slogged back to rock of ages saddle and down. The slog from Gladstone to Rock of ages saddle took me 2+ hours, even though there theoretically isn't any elvation gain, due to the ridicoulous amount of transitions from steep snow to talus. Not sure what kind of gear could get you through all of that with less transitions. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-16, By: slawrence2011
Info: See my 5/15 Wilson Peak report for road and shared approach info. This was the first, and probably the only time I will approach the Southern Wilson group from the N. Maybe I am just lazy, but so much of a slog to the rock of ages saddle, then the long traverse to the base of Wilson N slopes, and I didn't even traverse far enough. When I hit the ridge, I saw there was an easy walk to a high point on the left, but then realized that the summit was much higher to the right and that ridge was not traversable in snow. I downclimbed far enough until I could traverse, then traversed to a more reasonable couloir. I hit the ridge, but it was noon at this point, so did not have time for the class 4 summit move. Ski down was great, just before 1, wouldn't have wanted to any later. The slog back to Silver Pick saddle was rough, switched between side stepping on skis, crossing rocks in boots, and snowshoes near the top. Also a fun ski down from the saddle, a bit tricky to get in given the top 100 feet of the saddle has melted out. Would love to work on these in the future, probably from Navajo, and one day hit the East ski descent. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-01, By: One Sierra Charlie
Info: The N face of Mt. Wilson is still in okay shape for skiing. The road has patchy snow starting at 9800 and any you will not be able to drive much higher. there are also intermittent dry patches on the route all the way into Silver Pick Basin. From here the coverage is adequate except for a small dry section on the N side of the Rock of Ages saddle. Impressively, the dust layer is much worse on S and E aspects. 
14 1
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-02-13, By: angry
Info: Cross mountain trail packed to forest turn off. Broke trail in snowshoes from ~11,000 to ~13,000, stashed em and wore crampons to summit. Snow was stable/supportive and allowed plunge step on descent. There is wind loading and any prior tracks were nonexistent. Pretty windy all day so imagine more drifting, proceed with caution. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-01-30, By: osprey
Info: Sometimes the key to a successful winter summit is to get it the same day a strong trencher does it. I started at the Cross Mountain TH at 0545 and could see a climber's headlamp about 15 minutes above me. The Cross Mountain trail is well packed down. Upon reaching the turnoff to Slate Creek it was obvious the climber ahead was establishing a fresh trench after the recent snow storms. I finally caught up to the trencher about 1pm when he was on his way down from the summit. It was Will E! The final slope leading to the small col where one descends a short distance to the west to get to the south side of Mt Wilson is steep and icy and I had to front point with crampons on both the ascent and descent. The rocks leading to the summit had some snow but not enough to require an ax or crampons. It was very fortunate that Will had established the trench. It would not have been possible for me to summit otherwise. Even with his trench it took me 14 hours for the 12 miles RT. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-01-23, By: tomas_kazokas
Info: Started at Cros Mountain TH around 7:30 am. Skinned up the trail for a mile or so, and went left to break trail thru the woods towards the south headwall. South headwall had a slab with 2 inches of snow on top and made skinning challenging. Northeast headwall was steeper with more snow or just plain slab. Had to deploy ski crampons to make traction. Near 13,200 switched to crampons/ice axe and booted up toward the couloir. Stable snow conditions did lead to the saddle and from there a short gulley to the summit (around 2 pm). East Couloir had a good 6 inches of fresh snow and descend was a blast! Got to the boxcar couloir and did a snow stability assessment. Stability was not sufficient for us and we abandoned it. Skied back to the woods and slogged back to the car. 10h RT. What an amazing day and feel very fortunate to get this one in powder! 
3 2
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-10-06, By: Jasonicfederation
Info: Snow in Kilpacker Basin above ~12,300'. I put on my microspikes at about 13,700', and exchanged trekking poles for axe at about 13,900', prior to the "rock rib crossover". Snow was mostly only a few inches or so, but it was definitely deeper in the gully just before the rib crossover, near 13,900'... I took my time and really tested my foot placement in that area. There was at least some additional snow again overnight (Tue the 5th/early morning of Wed the 6th), but I don't think it was a whole lot more accumulation so would expect similar conditions as described. 
4 2
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2021-10-09, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Wilson Peak on Monday October 4 and got a good look at the north side of the mountain. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-09-27, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Traverse is clear of snow from the "organ pipes" all the way to the "narrows". You encounter snow, on the north side of the traverse while down climbing picture 28. Traction would make it easier, but not necessary, our group did not have traction. Picture 22, showing the route going directly over the rock on the left of a giant crack, did not look safe in our groups eyes. There are a set of cairns to the right of the crack that lead you up and around this section, right up to the ridge. In picture 22, the giant crack is above the sliver of snow, cairns are to the right of here. In picture 30, rock and dirt was pretty stable on the left side. The crux move, right before the summit, is spicy and a lot of fun! The traverse was challenging to say the least. From the "organ pipes" to the "narrows" is straight forward. After that, our group had some challenges with the terrain and comfort levels. All in all, all 4 in our group successfully crossed! 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-09-25, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Day tripped Wilson and El Diente from Kilpacker with no traverse. SW slopes on Wilson are summer conditions, easy class 3. Summit log canister broken and paper needs to be replaced. 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-09-06, By: Flyingfish
Info: Route is dry the whole way. The traverse is scary with the number of people that were up there Labor Day weekend lots of loose rock and rock fall. Be aware of people above and below you. 
Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2021-08-20, By: ericd01
Info: Exhilarating & airy in a few places coming from a morning climb up El Diente. From Kilpacker TH, 6.5-hrs to summit including the 2-hr solo traverse. Approaching from the SE, the 7-mile Kilpacker Trail offered lush vegetation, water access, well-cairned talus fields, and an upwind view of inbound clouds & thickness. Although commitment & exposure remain high on Mt Wilson, an escape route at the saddle near the narrows section is only about a 30-min commitment at worst case scenario. SW Slopes descent, 4-hrs to parking lot. 
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Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2021-08-22, By: kissmyiceaxe
Info: Camped about 3 miles in near the creek- great water source. Summited El D and Mt Wilson the next day. A little under 7 miles from camp to camp, but a long day on the traverse and alllllll the talus. There's a saddle about 3/4 of the way through the traverse that we chose to bail on bc of weather moving in, so we dropped down a few hundred feet and hooked up with the SW Slope trail and summited Mt Wilson that way. This avoids any class 4 moves on the traverse. Dry, summer conditions the whole way, but no easy water source after you leave the creek/meadow. 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-08-07, By: JROSKA
Info: There were a few minor snowfields remaining in the drainage but all can either be avoided or can be crossed on rocks in the snowfield. No snow anywhere else. Some loose rock in the steeper upper sections of the drainage was problematic but both gullies below the summit seemed very stable at the sides. Trail at the start of the approach was a bit muddy. 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2021-08-02, By: Ssgustafson
Info: Good trail up El Diente from Kilpacker, and then terrific traverse to Mt Wilson. Descent of North Slopes into Navajo Basin was a pretty awful rock hop. No trail until about 12,300 El. Talked to USFS rep on the hike out who said a multi-year trail renovation project was beginning - but would not expect any significant near term improvement. Suggest Kilpacker approach. 
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