Maroon Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-27, By: goldenrad
Info: Biked in from the gate and started at the day use parking lot at 5:20am. Summited at 11:00am. Definitely a steep east face. Found the route past the chimney to be challenging but was able to generally follow some good cairns to the top. I took Gully 2 and used the left wall which allowed me to ascend and descend without dislodging any rocks although it was a bit more time consuming. It took me a little more than 1.5 hours from the notch to the top and 1 hour from back to the notch. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-07-25, By: Msbaker
Info: Started at 5:30 AM from the overnight parking lot. Take note of the pictures on this app and do not miss the critical turn off at the Maroon Peak Trail Junction (it is not as obvious as you would think). The hike up the East Slope to gain the South Ridge is incredibly steep. From the top of the South Ridge it is smooth sailing through the chimney. However, the remaining route finding on South Maroon is the most difficult of any 14er I have experienced so far and I have now finished the Elk Range. Not only is the route finding incredibly challenging, but the rock is loose and a fall/slide into either of the two gullies near Point 13,753 would likely result in serious injury or worse. The third gully, after robot rock, isn't as steep but contains the same loose screen as the ones before. We summited by 10:30 AM and opted for the Traverse to avoid having to come back down South Maroon. Again, I cannot stress enough that South Maroon is not an easy 14er just because it is class 3. Onto the traverse. Totally dry and snow free. Rock was solid. We checked every hold and were constantly scanning to ensure we were on the correct route. The initial descent and then ascent through Spire #1 was fine. Spire #2 was a different story. The hardest move I have ever done and I now understand why many people bring ropes for this traverse. This was the first time on a 14er that I have felt like I was no longer hiking and was legitimately rock climbing. In fact, this move was so challenging that I don't see how it is possible to do the traverse from North Maroon to South Maroon without ropes. Fortunately, once past this it was much more straightforward. However, I cannot stress enough that the exposure is constant throughout the traverse and so any slip up even a minor one in one of the more "straightforward" sections could easily be fatal. Traverse time = 2 hours. We descended North Maroon fairly quickly because of some darker clouds forming nearby. The class four move near the top was a bit dicey and requires agility and confidence in foot/hand holds. The second gully is incredibly steep. While the rock in this gully isn't nearly as bad as the rock on Maroon Peak, a rock was kicked down inadvertently while we were descending this section and required two of us to dive out of the way. We got lucky and came out unscathed but it is a crucial reminder to be alert and communicate for the safety of those around you. The remaining gully didn't feel as steep and the rest of the hike was relatively straightforward. We were back down to Maroon Lake by 3:30 PM. One final note, and it should go without saying, but don't step foot on either of these mountains without a helmet. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-22, By: Maricopa Mountaineer
Info: The south ridge route was actually marked pretty well with cairns. I don't think it deserves an extreme route finding rating. That said though there were a few misleading cairns in some places, potentially making the route a lot harder technically. The climbing sections weren't as bad as I had heard regarding loose rock, the rock was solid for the most part but had loose dirt/small rocks on a lot of hand holds and foot holds. The hardest part was scrambling down the gullies and the 2800 ft of suck section (my knees aren't forgiving me for a while). If you feel comfortable doing the traverse it might be more beneficial to cross over to North Maroon and head down its standard route. 
Route: West Ridge/ Face
Posted On: 2022-07-12, By: mtbforlife4
Info: Was looking for some extra adventure, so I decided to climb S Maroon from the west. Would I do it again? No. Does it go? Yes. Lots of bushwacking? Yes. Endless choss? Yes. Approached from Fravert basin, route is snow free. Found an old and sketchy rap anchor, presumably to drop down the headwall to the Col w/ the rest of the W ridge. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-09, By: MichiganBrian
Info: Summer conditions the whole way. Everyone crossed two snowfields on the way up that were small and had good steps kicked, and the actual trail we took on the way down avoided them so they can be avoided. Overall perfect day and no condition related items to worry about. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-24, By: Aardvark
Info: NOT summer conditions. Lots of snow in the couloirs leading up to the ridge. Micro spikes or crampons with an ice axe recommended or you will spend a lot of time trying to get around the couloirs. Snow conditions change throughout the day from ice hard to soft and slippery. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-06-22, By: timewarp01
Info: Some marshy areas on the trail around Crater Lake, and a few tricky stream crossings where you need to bushwhack up the creek a bit if you want to stay dry. One or two persistent snowfields on the slog up to gain the south ridge after leaving the West Maroon Trail. The snow was steep and very hard, and one party member had a bad slide. The crossings are short, but crampons/axe should be used. From the ridge to the summit there is zero snow on the standard route. The traverse was entirely dry until a short snowbank after the third crux, between the Leap of Faith and N Maroon. It required an annoying bypass on ledges below and to the east (right) of the saddle. The descent off N Maroon is almost entirely dry, but the base of the 4th class chimney feature has a cone of snow about 5 feet deep. On the one hand, it makes the downclimb shorter, but it was steep enough that an axe helped a lot. You'll probably get your feet wet on the stream crossing after the rock glacier. We met a guy during the traverse who had ascended the Bell Cord. He said the couloir was still in, but very soft by the time he topped out. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-06-16, By: WillyGoat
Info: Did the traverse on 6/15/2022 from South to North. Ascended the Southeast Couloir to Maroon and descended the Northeast Ridge on N. Maroon. On the ascent snow was mostly continuous once you gain it above the trail, but there a couple of short sections of scree. Not much snow or ice on the traverse. I used my axe on a couple of sections and my crampons once for about 30'. Could probably safely make the traverse without an axe and crampons, but I preferred the security on the exposed sections. I found it relatively easy to stay on Class 4 terrain. I did not bring a rope and was happy with that decision. Whenever I hit an obstacle I stopped and looked around, in most instances there is an obvious trail to circumvent the challenge. Most obstacles were turned to the left (West). I found the descent trail surprisingly enjoyable and mostly snow free. Follow the ridge down to about 13,300' and then descend the gully, bear left to contour over to the next gully and repeat. There are frequent cairns and the trail gets more and more defined as you go. 
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Route: Y Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-30, By: AlessiaAscent
Info: We summited Maroon Peak on 05/29/2022 via the Y Couloir. We were trying for the Bell Cord, but decided once there that the Bell Cord was too melted out and had too high a risk of rockfall. Instead, we took the Y Couloir, which is above the garbage chute. It's steeper than the Bell Cord, but the snow felt solid. There's a snow field starting around 10,100, with mild postholing towards the start of the Y Couloir. Ridge around 13,700 was windy, with lots of hail. It feels like mixed climbing, lots of snow and some loose rock. We took a route down and around, following cairns from the standard route. We had crampons and ice axes, as well as short roping from 12,000 feet on. All was necessary- it's easy to slip, and the ridge feels exposed. There's a cornice at the summit, and we stayed on climber's left. At the summit, we heard thunder, so we got off the ridge at quickly as possible. We downclimbed while being lowered on a rope about 200 feet on a time, kicking steps down the Couloir. The garbage chute has some avalanche debris, so be aware of that. We didn't need crampons as of around 12,000 feet, but stay to the climber's right- you'll get cliffed out of you go too far to either side. The trail from the bottom of the snowfield past crater lake is good- well established and no issues there. Overall, we chose a rough weather day, but the snow is solid and it's definitely possible right now! 
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Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-16, By: aksean22
Info: Climbed and skied the Bell Cord on Friday. Still good coverage but snow quality was not great for skiing. Lots of avy debris in the lower couloir and dirty, sun-cupped snow the rest of the way up. There is a great booter traversing out of the Bell Cord and up the East Face to the summit. 
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Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2021-10-18, By: kalestew
Info: (didn't climb, just posting conditions for folks looking to do so soon) It looks like the Bell Cord isn't totally in but she's holding a little snow. See pics. West Maroon Pass had about 3.5-4' FWIW 
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Route: Four Pass Loop
Posted On: 2021-10-03, By: thurs
Info: Last round of storms are done, leaving generally 1-3" above 11,000ft. South and east aspects already melted below 12,500ft. 
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Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2021-09-28, By: docgliv
Info: Trail dry, no ice or snow, GPX spot on, loose crumbly dirt/rock on approach to ridge are like walking on marbles, poles would be great for descent. Similarly, gullies full of very loose rock, not so fun on descent. We did Gully #2 and has plenty of solid rock on sides for hands. In my opinion, Bells Traverse is much more enjoyable route of up for challenge - mostly b/c descent so not fun on this route. A little under 9-1/2 hours car-to-car at moderate pace. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2021-09-19, By: durkan
Info: Solo ascent and descent via south ridge and the dreaded slopes form hell. Color change is currently happening! Route-finding was not bad; very well cairned, so just take your time and find the next one and solid routes. Descending the slopes definitely the crux for me, though. No seasonal water run-off after the turnoff from main trail. Have fun! Note: I am sure this report might not be terribly accurate with some snow moving in. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2021-09-11, By: mickknu16
Info: Summer conditions and bluebird day. 2800ft of suck is seriously no joke. Traverse was a blast. Big shoutout to CFI for their recent trail work on N Maroon. Was there last month, so it was cool to see the before and after. Crazy quiet day on these peaks and trails for Labor Day Monday... Joined a crew of 2 for the traverse and saw almost no one else on the mountain. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2021-08-26, By: jslove1
Info: Couple micro patches of lingering snow from last week, nothing of note. I post more to give reference info on route. Nothing harder (albeit as steep or steeper) than the standard route on the 2nd Flatiron. Could be made harder of course depending on route choice. Less mentally taxing than little bear to blanca trav, less exposure than the head wall on the Crestone trav (for me). The most important factors are weather, climbing/exposure/rock quality competence, and going with partners. The route finding is MUCH EASIER with multiple sets of eyes. It can be safe with those factors accounted for. Without, it could easily become nightmarish I would think. You can choose to scramble more in order to avoid some of the unpleasant loose lower angles. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2021-08-16, By: Mzapo
Info: Trail can be tough to find on the way up between 11,500 to 12,500 due to some loose rock areas that overlap the trail. The trail can also be tough to find on occasion from the gullies to the summit. Keep a careful eye out for cairns throughout the trip to find a safe way up and not descend too far down post summit. Beautiful hike but be ready for a long day. The last mile and a half after getting on the ridgeline took us 2 hours with the down climb in this area taking close to as much time as going up. 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2021-08-11, By: ericd01
Info: Standard south ridge route past Crater lake, steep climb (~4000'/4mi) to summit in 6hrs from parking lot. Light wind with only a few afternoon clouds was good enough to make it a combo, traversing solo 2hrs to North Maroon Peak. Class 5 moves were fair & satisfying while route finding through loose rock west of ridge-line was not. Standard northeast route descent (~4500'/5mi) over cliff bands & talus fields finished the day at 12hrs. Scenic! 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2021-07-31, By: kalestew
Info: Ascended Maroon and descended North Maroon- route is dry and well cairned. There are some pieces of climbing gear left along the traverse (webbing around a rock at the top of the second spire, a cam above the left side of the third) but you don't need them to gain the c5 sections. Had to move slow down North Maroon's second gully to avoid dislodging all those loose boulders. Was a really fun and scenic day, but as many others have said that descent down North Maroon is soul crushing after the fun traverse. The final wide talus field before you're back to treeline starts stable but becomes increasingly loose the closer you get to grass. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2021-07-21, By: Ericsheffey
Info: South to North traverse. Full summer conditions on Maroon and North Maroon, as well as the traverse. No water on the trails or traverse either. Plenty of loose rock as always, check your holds and look for the solid rock. The descent down North Maroon was soul crushing after the fun we had on Maroon and the Traverse lol. Plan for plenty of time to get down North Maroon. 
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