Mt. Sneffels  
Condition Updates  
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-08-07, By: ScottHendrick
Info: We parked at 11000 feet because our CRV couldn't quite make it past the recent road damage up to the "restroom parking area". We were on the trail at 7am, using the standard route. There are quite a few large puddles and stream crossings while walking up the jeep road for the first part of the climb, which is super scenic. The flowers were in full bloom everywhere and the area looked like a movie backdrop. Summer conditions. The first part of the trail was well defined and became a bit rocky, no problem. Then we started the climb up the "loose slope", which had no real defined trail and people were scattered all over the mountain. This part of the climb could REALLY benefit from a CFI project - more on that later! We recommend staying to the far left on the way up - the rock is better there with less loose scree. The couloir up to the notch was steeper and required good route-finding skills, we recommend staying to the far right on the way up. The notch was pretty tough for short people, we saw several people basically being hoisted/flung into the notch (including a couple of small children) with good teamwork. This is definitely a Class 3 move. The final climb to the summit is only about 5 minutes, but requires scrambling and careful footwork. There were about 5-8 people on the summit when we were there, including a guy filming a drone video - that was a first for us! The way down was unpleasant. The notch and the upper couloir were the same difficulty as the ascent, but the "loose slope" was much worse. That was the longest half-mile of my life - changing directions and postures frequently with lots of slipping and sliding. We were extremely happy to exit that part of the climb and return to the trail. We encountered some mild rain on the way down and were back at the car at 4pm. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-07-29, By: ltduffy123
Info: Not that crowded, fun at the top, miserable in the col. Longest mile of my life! 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-06, By: kyrawhitworth
Info: SW Ridge was completely free of any snow and ice heading up. Route was wet in spots from rain that night but no traction needed. Definitely some loose rocks going up various gulleys on the route but that final ridge was excellent rock. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-07-01, By: Evey1134
Info: Caught golden hour on Sneffels last night. The center of the scree gully is deteriorating due to water runoff however the upper gully past the lavender col was quite nice. Very nice climb above ~13,500'. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-30, By: maylemay1
Info: Route is fully clear of snow. Great views from the summit although it did snow on us a little while we were up there. Made it to the outhouse in a stock 4x4 grand cherokee with no issue and camped right by the car as we arrived late. Hiked up the road the next morning. You could get a bit further if you wanted to, but would need something serious to make it to the upper trailhead. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-22, By: srtaylor1317
Info: South slopes are in full summer conditions. Flowers are coming out--not sure how many more are still to come, but the valley was beautiful and green. It was perfect weather with lots of folks out. When climbing the talus slope, we found it helpful to hug the rib that extends down to hiker's left, as the footing felt more secure. I would also note that if you're looking for easy class 3 terrain, there is plenty to be found on this route once you're in the gully above the talus. On the return trip, a protracted skid down the scree that is adjacent to the talus can provide a fast and fun (and perhaps risky) descent a good chunk of the way, if you're so inclined. Watch out for climbers below you, but the only hikers we saw stayed to the talus, which is mostly not below the scree. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-20, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: Went up SW ridge today and down standard route. Lots of melt this last week! One small snow patch at top of blue lakes pass but can be avoided. One small snow crossing on the ridge route, but only a couple of steps, if that. Down standard route - some snow in gulley but all avoidable. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-12, By: Buckie06
Info: There are two short sections of snow crossing where microspikes would useful. I was able to hike without them but really wished I had spikes 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-11, By: zootloopz
Info: 4x4 road good until blocked by a drift around 12,100'. No problems getting to the bathroom at 11,350'. Minor snow crossings to blue lakes pass. Snow avoidable or easy to cross on SW ridge except for the 2nd gully leading to crux. Messy and sloppy snow for 100 feet. Microspikes not needed but could be a comfort. Definitely makes it more time consuming. Ridge direct was great. Excellent rock near the top. South slopes down. No snow in the V notch. 150 feet of sloppy snow near top of lavender col. spikes once again not needed but could be a comfort. A couple of mini glisades were fun. Beautiful day!! Teakettle and friends looking like summer conditions as well. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-09, By: Slawson405
Info: I'll add to the other previous reports as conditions are changing fast. Took the ridge, made it to the 4wd TH with no problems snow wise. The basin has a few very short sections of post-holing, very brief. Up to the pass is pretty dry. The ridge is mostly dry, with the exception of the 2 exit gullies. Gullies are still full, but the snow is very soft so traction didn't e help much. Too soft to kick into. But if you hug the rock wall on the left side it gives some stability, couple tricky moves to avoid snow. The two walls are dry, but caked with snow at the bottom so just Have to find a few moves to get out of that. Ridge itself is dry. Standard route going down is dry. Take the 2nd lowest gully, marked by cairns, it's dry and easy to get down. Really pretty out there right now. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-08, By: Terrapin17
Info: Hiked via the South Slopes. Conditions were excellent besides a few snow crossings. The final gully had snow in it from halfway up until the V Notch. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-01, By: Wentzl
Info: Leave the snowshoes at home. No need at all for them any more. Climbed the SW Ridge from Blue Lakes Pass. The couple patches of snow that are left have consolidated and are easy to walk on now. Lots of snow still in the section of SW Ridge before the crux, but there is a gully to the right (east) that makes it possible to do all of the SW ridge stepping on snow just a few times. Axe was a comfort here and there, no traction used. On descent, V notch still full of snow, but rock alternate down still a faster/safer option. Some snow to negotiate off the summit, but not difficult. Still soft, not icy yet. Here are a bunch of photos, compared to two weeks ago, very different experience. Shout out and congratulations to Cygnus X-1 and his crew from Fort Collins. The last photo shows them celebrating their summit! 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: d_baker
Info: I didn't hike Sneffels, but here's a couple of pictures of the S slopes route and Yankee Boy approach. TH bathroom is unlocked and stocked. 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: AndyFromDenver
Info: Was originally going to sleep up there and attempt it Saturday morning, but I arrived at the lower trailhead at 2 pm so went for an afternoon/evening summit Friday. Was definitely a great decision based on the weather. The road above the 2WD trailhead is challenging right now due to the amount of water running down. My tires (I drive a Crosstrek) spun on the first set of wet rocks as I was heading up to the outhouse and I decided to settle for the 2WD trailhead, especially since it's only an extra mile or so each way. Above the outhouse, the trail has a lot of sections of snow (and streams, which are also below the outhouse) that you need to cross. For the most part, it's very firm snow (soft, but firm in the afternoon). Occasionally, though, you'll punch through and posthole to your knees or even thighs. It's easy to see where those spots are based on the tracks in the snow. The South Gully is a slog (not because of conditions). You can pretty much avoid snow in it if you want, but it's all talus and scree. The Lavender Col has a lot of snow in it and you can see the snow below it on the ridge. For whatever dumb reason, I tried to avoid putting crampons on as long as I could, so I climbed up some rocks just below Lavender and that was Class 4/5 scrambling. It worked, but it was sketchy with some loose rocks. I'd advise just getting into the snow right away. Once in Lavender, there is a line without snow to about half way up, but then it's all thick snow. There's also a line with snow the entire way--pick what you prefer. Like the trail below, it's very firm, but soft on top right now. Even in the afternoon heat, my crampons dug in well and were stable. Once you get to the V-Notch, you'll see it's completely filled in with vertical snow. It was a Class 4/5 climb to get around the snow. I didn't feel as confident climbing up this snow because it's soft and not ice so I chose the rock. If you want to avoid this completely, make a left from the Lavender Col up a snow field about 50 feet below the V Notch. You can't miss it--just solid snow leading up to the left from inside the Col. The snow is steep, but good. I think this is the best descent route right now, rather than downclimbing that short Class 4/5 set of moves in the V-Notch. After the V-Notch, it's a mixed climb for the last 50 or so vertical feet, but you're through the crux. It took me about 3.5 hours up and only about 2:15 down thanks to the snow fields. I descended 1,000 feet from the summit in about 20-25 minutes because I was able to glissade (carefully) through the snow in the Col and was able to "run" down the snow with my crampons on in the South Gully for a ways. Started at 2 p.m., summited at 5:25, and was back at my car by 7:50. If you have any specific questions and I don't respond quickly here (I don't always check this and just discovered an unanswered message from last fall), DM me on Insta (@andy_schlichting). 
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Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-05-27, By: TheSpaceForce
Info: We started late (~6:30), but ascended the SW ridge and descended the standard route for a “tour de Sneffles.” The trail up to Blue Lakes Pass was a little hard to follow at times with snow/snowmelt/mud. On ascent, the ridge had lots of snow and ice that limited route options. We used ice axes in the couloirs on ascent and descent. Some melting snow in the V notch on descent made for a slippery down climb. The gully near the summit on the standard route is still almost entirely filled with snow. The weather was great, but the melt-off made for a slushy, muddy, and wet afternoon. 
Route: South slopes up, Snake Couloir Ski
Posted On: 2022-05-25, By: slawrence2011
Info: Sneffels was in great shape today, very firm conditions all the way up, started at 5, moved very lesiurely to let the snow warm, summitted just after 10. Chilled at the summit for an hour to let the snow warm, then rapped and dropped into the Snake. No suncups and great conditions! Then I climbed a couloir that I thought would go back to the Lavender Col, but it cliffed, so I got to get some bonus skiing in. Then found the actual East couloir, and that was an hour slog back with a bit of easy exposed scree at the top. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-23, By: slawrence2011
Info: Intended to summit via Lavender Col and ski down Snake couloir. Even with starting pretty late at 5 AM from the lower trailhead, I recognized around 10 AM in the final couloir that everything was still bulletproof and my ice axe was barely going in, so I started delaying my climbing interminably and admiring the view in hopes that the intermittent sun would soften it. I summited around 10:30. I thought the scramble from the top of the first couloir to the rock tower with the anchor (not the summit) was frightening even in crampons with the snow. But no one mentions it, so guessing it is considered class 3? Then I rapped off the N, and my 57m rope was not long enough to get past the frightening cliff bands. I went off rope and downclimbed to the edge, and I couldn't see a couloir, only undening cliff bands. Then I came back up the rope, and went a little rappeller's left over a notch in case that was the couloir. That was even more frightening, and it was snow covered slabs, so I couldn't reclimb, and resorted to ascending the rope with a couple slings. Then I skied down the S slopes via my ascent route. Even at 3 PM that was pretty bulletproof with suncups, glad I didn't drop any earlier. But the ski down Yankee boy was great, I think I skied down to below 12K. Next time I try for Snake, I will either go with someone who can find it, ascent from Blaine basin, or drop into the E col and find from the bottom. I'm guessing it was there, I just didn't have the guts to stomach the 5.scary downclimb, maybe I needed an 80. 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2022-05-22, By: Reed Harrington
Info: Road is open and drivable up to the outhouse parking at 11,350' with a standard 4wd vehicle. Continuing beyond this is possible with the right vehicle, but walking is probably easier and more enjoyable. There are a few snow patches to cross on the way up to the upper trailhead and from there to the bottom of the gully that climbs to Lavender Col, but snowshoes not required. Combination of snow and rocks in the gully, so pick which your prefer. The upper gully at the top of the Col is fully snow packed and requires/I highly recommend crampons and an ice axe. The V-notch is snowed in still, but there is a snow free alternate line (Difficult Class 3) to its right under a pink rappel anchor (use of anchor not needed to ascend/descend) that leads to a straightforward jaunt to the summit. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-05-15, By: Wentzl
Info: As mentioned in report yesterday, route in great condition. I started at 12:30 p.m. and finished at 6:30. Carried snowshoes to the upper 4wd trailhead and stashed them there. Did not use crampons. Snow on the climb firm and very favorable for kick steps. Just starting to turn to ice right at the crux, about half way up the ridge, just before where Ecocrazy accessed the route. I did a variation to avoid a big snowfield about half way up from Blue Lakes Pass and also descended via the rock ridge, avoiding snow down to Lavender Col. I went up from the outhouse to the upper trailhead via the winter route and came down by the 4wd road. Sort of a toss up which is better. Which ever way you go, it will be sloppy for a couple weeks. The downside of the 4wd road is so much water flowing over it that you will have wet feet all day. The winter route was doable without snow shoes today, but that is not to say there was not some curse worthy soft spots along the way. Last three photos show a ski descent off Gilpin. Hat's off to whoever pulled that off! 
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Route: Roach\'s r2v2
Posted On: 2022-05-14, By: Ecocrazy
Info: Road is good to the outhouse; Subaru could make it. Snow conditions were great today going up the gully that intersects the southwest ridge half way up (Roach's v2 on the SW Ridge) and coming down the standard lavender couloir. Getting down the notch with the snow is a bit tricky; recommend crampons for that step (and the couloir after it). Started 5:45, summit at 9:15, spend almost an hour on top, back down around noon. 

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