Little Bear Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-08-09, By: ncxhjhgvbi
Info: An update from the last report - still a ton of moisture up there but the creek crossing is easily passable again. Marshy around the lake, but mosquitoes weren't an issue passing through. They were actually worse at the 10,100' parking spots where we camped. Hourglass still wet and we chose to climb left of the crux up and crab walk/butt scoot through the water on the way down like many others have mentioned. With approach shoes we were surprised how grippy the rock was even in the flowing water. Pretty much every 6 inches or so in any direction has a white mark from rockfall. Glad I never have to drive that road or be in that gulley ever again! 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-08-02, By: ladnerkm
Info: We camped at Lake Como 7/31 and climbed LB 8/1. It hailed on the 3 peaks night of 7/30. Per reports Blanca had a foot deep in spots for hikers 7/31. The creeks are running very high and the marsh around the lake is saturated. We needed to use a log crossing above the standard 4wd road crossing on the lake como approach, as it was impassable. The good news is we ran in to no hail or ice on LB on 8/1. The hourglass was very wet as expected so it was nice to have 2 ropes in good condition, especially for the descent. 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-25, By: ckaplan01
Info: Jrs' report covers most of it. Road is rough; parked at around 8,800 and hiked in from there. An insane amount of mosquitos by the lake. Fish were jumping like mad. We stayed right in the approach gully, which ended up being quite doable on both ascent and descent. Hourglass was fun and engaging. Climbed without gear and rope, staying left at the anchor, climber's left, to both ascend and downclimb. Minimal water in the Hourglass. 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-25, By: jrs1965
Info: Climbed Little Bear on Saturday, the 23rd. The road still suxs. The Lake Como area probably has the most mosquitos I've ever experienced in Colorado. The lake is loaded with trout. We started at 3:30 AM to try and get ahead of any other parties. It worked. Hourglass wasn't too bad going up. The previously mentioned red, 300 foot, 6 mm cord was gone. The 8 mm burgundy rope which was mentioned on the 14ers.com fb page was still there. It had taken a few hits from rock fall and the core was showing. Also, a black and red 11 mm that was really beat-up and tied into an older, even more beat up rope was there. I thought the most challenging portion of the route was above the Hourglass. On our ascent, we went to the left at the anchor station. We went too far left after the anchor and ended up in some really crappy terrain. We topped out on the ridge about 30 feet to the west of the actual summit at 8 AM. On descent, we followed the route on "Photo #18" of the route description and ended up on the east side of the rappel station. Other than a ton of loose rock, this was a good descent. At the rappel station, I used an oval quick link to tie into the two anchor cables, and my own 100 meter/328 foot, 6 mm cord that was doubled over to rappel to the ledge area which is about 3/4 of the way down the Hourglass. This worked well for us, and we were able to quickly, and safely clear out of the Hourglass. The rest of the descent and walkout was an uneventful suffer-fest. 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-21, By: pjcolorado
Info: Got Little Bear on Monday (7/19). That road to the lake just plain sucks. Going up/down the scree gully is no picnic either. The ropes in the hourglass are getting old. The one with the knots in it continues to fray in multiple locations. I don't know how to tie those knots, but someone else who does may be able to preserve it for a while. I thought I saw a fray in the new rope, but I just can't remember which one it was. I used both to steady myself going up and down the hourglass. The area above the hourglass was the most dicey. I tried like heck not to knock anything down. I was successful on the way up, not so much on the way down. Thankfully I was the only one in the area at the time. I met a group of 3 women who were descending as I was making my way up. I spent almost an hour at the summit to ensure they were through the hourglass before I began my descent. There was some water in the hourglass, but that didn't require any major diversion away from the easier way up. It was a long day up/down that road and so glad I do not have to negotiate it again. 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-17, By: cougar
Info: A few Tacos and a 4 Runner got to the turn at 10,100, although it's a rough and slow ride. Some decent sized rocks had fallen across the road in spots and I had to move some. The steep section of road from 10100 to campsites at 10200 is very rough with large rocks and not worth driving the extra bit if you can avoid it, although a few made it up. Crawlers were out today going over the Jaws. Similar to last report, some water in center of hourglass, ropes in decent shape, although they sit in the water. Two ropes, the older knotted one and the newer continuous one, red. Didn't use them on the way up, a couple times on the way down to descend quickly. Route angles left onto easier rock about 30 ft below the rope anchor. Approach shoes worked well even on the wet slab sections, was able to go up the middle at the choke. Avoided rockfall on ascent, but there were a couple close projectiles from climbers above while descending. Saw some used condoms near Lake Como at the split off for the Little Bear gully, so that part of the route had protection. Mosquitos really bad even in mid morning. 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-19, By: samfarmer789
Info: LB is in great condition rn!! Go grab it if you're thinking about it. Lake como approach was fine, road still sucks of course but nothing crazy. I'd recommend trying to hitch a ridge from a 4 wheeler if you happen to come across one We hammock camped at the lake and it was pretty comfy and warm. Definitely stay right or left on that first gully to get some sturdier rocks. We stayed on the ridge instead of dropping down once we got to the top of the gully. It was awesome if you like a little exposure. Hourglass was good, little stream in the middle so try and stay right or left of it. Once you get to the top of the hourglass I think staying left (but not too far left!!) was easier. We went a little too far left on the way up and had to make some class 5 moves to get to the top (spooky). The way down we stayed more towards the center and there were cairns and it was much easier. We used the rope on the way down- after inspecting the anchor of course!!- and it was nice for the way down. Great climb, great weather, great views! 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-14, By: iantergalactic
Info: Summited little bear via hourglass. Some water still running down the middle and in certain spots on the sides but is easily avoidable for the most part. Prusik cord placed on 7/11 (thank you!) was still in place and still in good condition, was nice to have a little extra support on the downclimb. 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-13, By: KRAZY
Info: We climbed the standard hourglass route on 7/11. There had been a rain storm the night before (7/10) and there was free flowing water in the hourglass. I hauled in a brand new 8 mm 300 foot long Prusik cord. We used the cord to belay and rappel the hourglass. However this cord is not rated to use for belay, rappel, or climbing. It is only rated as a Prusik. One of my partners planned to clean our gear on descent, but with impending weather decided to use the cord to help him descend quicker. We left the cord in the hourglass. The anchors look good. The current climbing rope/cord is a mix of different ropes. The bottom rope appears to be new from this season. The middle is 8 or 9 mm cord and the top is another rope that appears to be older, but all frays have been knotted into butterflies and effectively taken out of play. As always, use at your own risk. There was an even bigger storm at Lake Como on 7/11. 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-10, By: TheSpaceForce
Info: Summer conditions - hot at the lower 2WD trailhead! Concur with previous reports re: Mosquitos at Como (and we were just passing through), and re: keep right in the initial gully - we prefer to climb rather than to hike over scree/talus. Water in the hourglass is a steady trickle about one foot wide. The rock to either side are great for anyone with outdoor climbing experience. We did not use the rope, but a group before us did: it is a combination of three ropes, increasing in age as you ascend. We did not inspect the condition of the rope, or the anchor, but here are some photos for those interested. Additional note on rockfall - several groups took the Northwest Face route, which essentially travels above the standard route. These climbers can kick rocks down into the standard approach beyond just the hourglass. We observed this at least once - please be careful regardless of which of these routes you take! 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-05, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: All summer conditions. Plenty of flowing water in the hourglass around 630/7am (not iced over). With how much water there is, we went up to climbers left in the hourglass, which meant some more vertical climbing. On the way down, plenty of wet hands/gloves. Hourglass route definitely more challenging than expected! Be sure to shout rock/clear with any rock falls. Only 5 climbers total on 7/4, 2 of which went West Ridge direct/hourglass down. Did not inspect the rope, but we did see a person using it. Going up left of the belay/rope anchor in the hourglass seemed preferable. In the initial gully up to the ridge if you go towards climbers right and use the rocks/rock wall there is more stable climbing. 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-07-01, By: jmfb3
Info: Trailhead was clear. The hourglass was very wet. 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-06-25, By: Raccoon40
Info: The hourglass was wet. It had rained the days before we did little bear so I think that's part of the reason it was wet and part of it was snow run off. Going up while it was wet was a little sketch and coming down was difficult (somewhat slick) - we slid on our butts through the center of the hour glass and the water. 
Route: Lake Como Approach
Posted On: 2022-06-20, By: Realponcho
Info: Horrible bugs camping near the lake. Bring a tent and deet! 
Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-06-13, By: Phillip
Info: Hiked up this weekend and very little snow on the route. No spikes or Crampons needed. The hour glass is wet, but it can be climbed around. The top rope used for descending (or ascending) is usable but has quite a few small tears and lots of knots in it. An ATC or figure 8 device will NOT be able to be used for descending. It does not appear that anyone has put up a new rope this year. The anchor system used looks good though, if someone wants to leave an old rope up there and cut the old one down. The rope also does not go to the bottom of the hour glass. It stops about 20 feet above the hour glass which IMO is the trickiest part of the hour glass, down climbing class 4/5. Completed the Traverse to Blanca with no snow on the route. Conditions are good. 
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Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Posted On: 2022-05-30, By: Guyer25
Info: Gully to the ridge was mostly filled with snow, steep and loose. Scramble to the hourglass was mostly clear and easy scrambling and snow traversal. The hourglass and above was mostly covered in ice and snow. Getting to the top required climbing exposed rock, steep snow, and climbing ice. The narrow part of the hourglass was covered in ice so I did a class 5 climb to the left, then mostly stuck to snow and short exposed rock climbs between snow sections keeping left of the summit and "trail" to reach the summit. On my descent I felt more comfortable down-climbing the ice. I did it with microspikes and an ice axe, but definitely recommend crampons to make it less sketchy. 
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Route: SW Ridge
Posted On: 2022-05-17, By: timewarp01
Info: Did the SW ridge today starting from the 2WD trailhead on Lake Como road. The bushwhack wasn't too bad, but it really sucked coming back in the afternoon heat. Tobin Creek is bone dry, as is the rest of the ridge. Make sure to stash some water. The Hourglass is still holding snow though, see the pic below. Mama Bear traverse wasn't bad at all, was a bit surprised not to see anyone else on the mountain all day with the perfect weather. Took about 8 hours car to car. 
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Route: SW Ridge
Posted On: 2022-01-16, By: -wren-
Info: Thanks ScreeSurfer for getting me up there. Conditions are still largely the same save for a couple things - there is a good bit of rime above 13,6 or so, and more snow on the climb up S. LB. With some more warming conditions could deteriorate pretty fast but today it was still money - lot of supportive snow for easy climbing on Mama Bear, and not too bad going up S. LB. Knife edge is pretty spicy right now. The Hourglass has changed a lot - my friend was in there today and says it goes at WI3 right now…so be ready for that if you're going with the standard. 
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Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-01-06, By: ScreeSurfer
Info: Ascended the Southwest ridge to South Little Bear and did the Mama Bear traverse to the Little Bear summit. Wasn't crazy about the idea of going back across the ridge to South Little Bear as the ridge contained the most snow of the entire route so I descended the hourglass couloir and took the West ridge down through Chimney Gulch back to 8200ft on the Lake Como road. No flotation needed as there was only 2-4inches of powdery snow on most of the route. The Mama bear traverse had up to a foot of firm snow caked onto the rocks. The hourglass had some ice forming on east side of gully from above the rope anchor down to the narrowest part of the couloir. The rope was mostly buried and not useful. Maybe 6-8 inches of safe snow from below the hourglass to the West ridge. I looked down the Northwest gully to Lake Como, and it seemed very climbable but I'm sure slippery with snow covered rocks. (After doing it, I would not recommend the chimney gulch exit because of slippery snow covered talus field followed by brutal bushwacking) 
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Route: West Ridge Direct
Posted On: 2021-09-27, By: noob_hiker
Info: Summer conditions - but I am posting because I lost 1 black diamond mitten right at the carined turnoff to enter the west ridge gully. If you see it please let me know. I would greatly appreciate it. 

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