Route: Rustler Gulch
Posted On: 2022-07-27, By: JasonKline
Info: Summer conditions. There were a few snow crossings above Rustler Gulch but below Cassi/13260 A. You could avoid these crossings, but they weren't consequential if you chose to do them. Microspikes would be helpful but not necessary The Cassi/13260 A ridge and areas closest to the peaks are free of snow/ice. The wildflowers are in spectacular full bloom.
Route: From Rustler Gulch
Posted On: 2021-06-06, By: supranihilest
Info: From the "Cassi Peak"/13,260 A saddle the route looks pretty crappy. Not surprisingly, it is! Scree and garbage rock make up this peak. We climbed up Class 2 scree and small, scruffy Class 2+ rock bands on the lower mountain to a section of steep, wet snow, which gave way to a section of exposed, very loose towers to clamor around and over. These towers weren't difficult, Class 2+, but were somewhat exposed and the rock quality was absolutely miserable. Test every hold. Another short snowfield came after the towers, followed by another short section of scree, which gave way to the summit bump snow climb which was probably 50 degrees and very soft. Some "steps" were basically just a bunch of nearby snow shoveled into a waist deep posthole and mashed down with boots until it held our weight enough to make another "step". This peak has a secondary sub-summit that looks very close in elevation but fortunately is just a bit shorter, because it's basically just vertical choss with a snow mushroom on top. We reversed our route to the saddle with "Cassi", essentially just plowing through our previous footsteps in the snow. Our descent through Rustler Gulch was very unpleasant. The snow was very wet and soft and prone to postholing, and we were baking in the sun. Our boots were full of water by this point so instead of attempting to stay dry on the many stream and East River crossings we simply waded directly through everything even it if was knee deep. We were already completely soaked, we couldn't get any wetter, so why not? Pretty miserable. Don't underestimate these peaks based on the stats. Gear: ice axe mandatory. We only used one axe but some may want a second. We didn't use traction but I'd imagine the vast majority would want it in current conditions. Flotation might be necessary if the snow in the basin does not freeze, which it won't in the immediate future.