Mt. Meeker  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-18, By: bkcheck
Info: Summer conditions the whole way up. The climbers trail mentioned by others does span the entire stretch between Sandbeach Lake trail and Meeker Meadows, but it disappears often. Try looking for fallen trees that have had sections of branches cleared off. A few marshy sections by the meadow but they could be avoided with some creativity. 
Route: Meeker Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-25, By: dpage
Info: Summer conditions from Meeker Ridge across the knife edge to the summit. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-22, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Apache Peak on June 20 and got a good look at the south side of Mt. Meeker. There appears to be some snow at the bottom of the Dragon Egg Couloir. Otherwise, it looks mostly dry up to the top. 
1
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-16, By: Christensenje
Info: From Longs trailhead: Snow almost fully gone up the summit. Just after the knife edge however, on the final scramble, a little work around on the final section was needed due to some snow still hanging on. Turned it more into class 4 to 5.2 climbing. Can't imagine that little bit of snow will hold on much longer but it was enough to cause a detour when only having trail runners and a vest. Wanted to descend the loft, but will need crampons/ice axe a little longer for that guy. 
1
Route: Dragon Egg Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-11, By: macg91
Info: The south face of Meeker is pretty bare of snow. First couple photos show the Dragon Egg Couloir taken from near the Dragon Egg itself. As far as skiing goes, the looker's right branch is completely out; there's enough snow that one could link some turns lookers' left, but would have to down-climb some of the rockier sections. We did get to enjoy about 1500' of great corn skiing from the Dragon Egg itself back down to the trail. However the surface freeze was only a few inches thick and below that was wet, unconsolidated snow. With warmer temps the next few days, I doubt it'll last long. Sandbeach Lake Trail is dry for the first 1.5 miles, followed by patchy snow and then continuous snow. The snow was fairly supportive in the early morning but flotation was definitely needed by afternoon. 
5
Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2022-05-09, By: ReggieBop
Info: Lots of snow to begin the coulior. Snow conditions are lovely on the first section, until the rock "step" Mixed climbing required, but no ice to climb. Dry tooling required clearing off a couple inches of sugary snow to find safe ice tool holds. 50mph winds weren't necessarily pleasant, but a super fun route. Take care when on the descent, traverse the rock band until you reach the mid/lower portion of the loft for a wonderful long glissade. My partner and I both soloed the route, had a lovely day 
8 3
Route: SE Ridge/Horse Creek
Posted On: 2022-02-27, By: colin j
Info: Great weather today on Meeker, practically no wind. Knife edge was holding some sugar snow and I bailed after reaching Meeker Ridge. To those who have crossed this in winter conditions you are much braver than I. Most of the ridge is wind scoured above treeline, though the last 500' or so to Meeker Ridge holds lots of sugar snow and was very slow going; I did underestimate how long this would take. Otherwise good skin track to near Lookout-Meeker saddle and trench is in to treeline. If you plan to use the Horse Creek/Lookout trailhead Boulder County 113N is decently travelled about 0.4 miles from the highway to a port-a-potty and a pullout with room for 3 or 4 vehicles; do not attempt to drive further unless you like getting stuck. 
6 4
Route: IRON GATES
Posted On: 2021-11-30, By: Slawson405
Info: Very dry. Wind forecast was wildly off, but that's kind of expected for the area. 
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2021-09-27, By: wintersage
Info: Windy day but the route is still dry. No need for traction yet 
Route: Loft
Posted On: 2021-09-26, By: mightycuine
Info: Unavoidable snow in the Loft couloir. Bring spikes-it's getting icy in spots. 
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2021-09-18, By: gcook33
Info: Very fun route. Very stable rock as well, I stuck to the right side from Chasm Lake up through the Iron Gates. Gorgeous day. 
1
Route: Ridge, Loft, Clark’s Arrow, Pagoda
Posted On: 2021-09-10, By: blazintoes
Info: Did a fun scrambly climb via Wild Basin to Hole in the Wall then up Lookout Mountain, up Meeker ridge to Meekers knife edge, down loft, up the Notch via Clark's Arrow to Homestretch stepped off the Keyhole route at the bottom end of the Homestretch, contoured over to the low point between Pagoda and Longs (there is a 3rd class passage down the ramp) and climbed up Pagoda looking back at the impressive West Face of Longs. It was hot, dry and I ran out of water so scrambled back down Pagoda and found a small notch to escape and scree skied down to Hunters Creek to refill and hoofed it back to Sandbeach Lake. The smoky hazy skies killed the views. 
11 3
Route: Loft
Posted On: 2021-07-22, By: rudi32
Info: Ascended Loft Couloir to Mount Meeker. Traversed from Meeker to Meeker Ridge ! Great scramble with great rock. Still some remaining snowfields throughout the route, easily avoided. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-07, By: jabz
Info: A patriotic summit! A bit of snow in the bowl, but easy to navigate around climber's right on easy ledges. Lots of beautiful wildflowers and the bushwhack along Hunter's creek was not as bad as I feared. 
9
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2021-07-04, By: maxavanzi
Info: Summer conditions to Meeker Ridge and Mt Meeker. 
5
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2021-06-20, By: trkl9
Info: Completely dry aside from the usual snow crossings to chasm. Knifes edge is also dry. 3 people on the summit today. Loft couloir still holding some snow with a visible glissade path. Parking lot only 1/4 full at 4:30 AM. 
8 2
Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2021-06-14, By: PeakSixTD
Info: Soloed Dreamweaver on Saturday in good conditions. It is melting fast however.. probably won't be in great shape after this weekend. We had a low of 35 degrees and totally clear skies so the snow was firm. I'd be hesitant to do this route this year with much warmer of a low. Second step totally melted. We dry tooled up it anyways. Probably a decent bypass to the right. First step was a non issue but with the amount of melt occurring, that may change soon. 3rd and 4th seemed like one continous pitch of some ofnthr funnest climbing ive done. Mostly WI2 with maybe a short section of WI3 here and there. Easier of a solo than I figured it would be. 
3
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2021-06-12, By: arthurtect
Info: Made it up the Loft Route to Mount Meeker. The Loft Route coulier is still full of soft snow. Lose 4-8" with every 12" step, but the glissade down made it worth it. The left turn at the top of the route is a little hairy. Considered doing Long Peak but didn't like the snow on the Homestretch. Have to admit, finding the route route the Notch was difficult, hope to have the time to place more cairns next time. Decided to summit Mount Meeker for the first time, for both my son and I. Dry all the way up from the saddle. Considered taking the ridge down through the Iron Gates, but hadn't done enough research of that route and that ridge is very exposed! Great choice, because the glissade back down the Loft coulier was phenomenal! The quick swim at Chasm afterwards was just as refreshing! 
Route: Dreamweaver Couloir
Posted On: 2021-06-03, By: osprey
Info: The apron at the bottom of the Couloir is entirely snow and gets sun hit early which made for a sweat drenched entrance to the Couloir. The Couloir itself was either snow or ice. The rock steps were covered in snow so no rock climbing was involved. The first small crux was thin ice which was too thin for ice screws. The higher cruxes were either ice or snow over ice. The summit snow field was mushy snow. It is probably best to be on the west side of the rocky summit ridge going up to the summit. Descent was by going down to Loft and crossing the ledges. It was soft snow but I felt more comfortable facing the slope until after crossing the ledges. This was followed by a fast glissade on soft snow to the bottom of the Loft. This was the hardest Peak climb I have done in the last 20 years and I do not wish to exceed the difficulty or even match it again. 
Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2021-05-29, By: jtfoss1
Info: Honestly... I should have brought micro spikes. The trail approach was icy early (4amish). No snowshoes needed but we were car to car in 9 hours and finished by noon. Couloir in great condition, the snow was solid for almost the entire way. Periodic sections of ice. I felt better with a couple cams on the first crux but opted to go without pro for the rest. Descent to the Loft was a little spicy. Around 10am, the snow was starting to get a little slushy in areas. Once on the Loft, the snow was perfect and the glissade was incredible. 

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