Mt. Edwards  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-08-02, By: jordanthebuff
Info: Really awesome trail. It's straightforward until Argentine Pass. From there, the trail disappears, but you just stay on the ridge or slightly right. I looped this route with Grays south ridge. The ridge between Edwards and Grays was a lot of fun and not super technical. It's easy to keep the ridge a class 2, but there are options to make it more difficult. Moderate route finding involved if you're keeping it to a class 2. The "crux" of the ridge happens just after you depart Edwards. There are two towers or points that I just stayed to the left of to navigate around. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-13, By: NotTimid
Info: Ascended via the traverse from Grays, descended to Argentine Pass TH. Summer conditions! No snow on the slope up to the pass (or anywhere on the route). 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-10, By: Ssgustafson
Info: Significant snowfields to deal with from Walfdorf Mine TH. Overall, a great morning on Edwards and McClellan - didn't see another person all day! 
Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-03, By: funsizetiff
Info: Able to drive to Waldorf Mine on Leavenworth Creek Road. Some snow patches but you can just drive over them. 4WD required. Mellow skin on continuous, smooth snow from parking area to summit. There was only one dry patch I had to briefly take my skis off and walk across. On descent I carefully stepped across this with skis on. Started at 7, summit at 8:50. Waited an hour for the snow to soften up then it was time for the corn harvest! 
6 1
Route: North Face Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-19, By: ClimberSkierDave64
Info: Skied the North Face Couloir today on Edwards. Pretty fun line, and it'll definitely be skiing even better after this next storm! Even with a light freeze, the snow was still supportable all the way up the line in the morning. We were able to ski to and from within a couple blocks of the trailhead using the creek drainage which is still continuous although some of the snow bridges are thin. Winds were ripping today! 
10 2
Route: North Face
Posted On: 2022-05-19, By: jmanner
Info: The North Face lines are aline currently, its pretty thin at the moment... But skiable from summit area to summer TH. 
Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 2021-11-22, By: Anima
Info: I parked at the 2wd lot along Guanella Pass. There was an inch of snow along the 4wd road for the first couple miles and then a couple inches beyond that. Lots of ice under the snow. The gully between McClellan and Edwards is holding snow but it can be avoided. Flotation is not necessary nor is traction. A couple Jeeps and ATVs didn't have a problem with the ice and snow on the road. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-20, By: PikaSteve
Info: Summer conditions. Saw several mountain goats today: Andrew Hamilton on road to Waldorf Mine; one group at Argentine Pass and a group of eight halfway to summit. Well cairned route from Argentine Pass keeps route on the easier end of Class 2. 
4 2
Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 2021-07-07, By: GordoByrn
Info: Went fairly direct to McClellan, then made a loop by descending via Edwards/Argentine Pass. 5.7M, 2700 ft. Drove a little past the mine and parked in a pull out on the "low" fork after the creek crossing. I thought this would save us getting our feet wet but we would have been fine heading up on the hiker's right of the creek. This is a nice route, up high for a while, no crowds. Had my youngest with me and we plugged away. I'll post some thoughts on the road in the TH section. g 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-03, By: dcsheldon
Info: Little remaining snow and all avoidable on Mt. Edwards and Argentine Peak 
Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 2021-06-20, By: Skeletor
Info: Road to Waldorf Mine is completely clear. There are snow fields along the route to Edwards and McClellan, but easily avoided. No traction needed. 
Route: From Argentine Pass
Posted On: 2021-06-17, By: GordoByrn
Info: Five snowy gullies down to three. 1st was 40 steps to kick in, 2nd was 20, 3rd was flat walk across. Glad I had an ice axe. Used microspikes. Continued along to Grays. 
Route: Guanelland Traverse
Posted On: 2021-06-15, By: Lordofthegnar
Info: Did the traverse from Loveland Pass to Guanella Pass with two friends. My buddy Calvin is an awesome videographer and made this about the trek - gives you a good idea of the conditions: Left a car at Guanella, then camped at Herman Gulch Trailhead, and then drove the quick 12 min up to Loveland pass to start the hike around 2:30am. Hardly any snow on the entire route from Cupid, to Grizzly, to Torreys, Grays, Mt. Edwards, and Argentine Peak. A little bit of snow on the down climb off Argentine as well as the descent from Square Top. Got a little muddy on the final segment from Square Top to Guanella as well. We took our time resting at each peak and finished around 3:45pm. Was getting hot under the sun. This is a long trek with little defined trail on much of it and you're above 13k most of the time, so bring plenty of food and water. I probably went through 3.25-3.5L and a crap ton of snacks. The ridge from Grays to Mt. Edwards was my favorite. Can keep it to class 2 but you can get some Class 3, and maybe even some Class 4 on one section if you want (but you can totally bypass this section). Have fun! Spikes and ice axe were entirely unnecessary and didn't need gaiters as well. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-13, By: wintersage
Info: There are several (~5) snow-filled gullies along the trail after 12k ft that are sloped and require an ice axe and traction to cross. I used microspikes but the snow is very hard and slick requires you to dig footholds in order to safely cross. There is one vertical slab of snow that either requires you to go much further up the rocks and around it, or you have to dig holds in it with an axe to climb it (third picture, you can see the ice-axe carved footholds). The summit itself is mostly dry. 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-06, By: CairnColorado
Info: It looks doable from the trailhead & you can likely keep your feet dry through the willows but the trail gets lost in the snow. There is a bridge to cross Peru Creek. In the trees, there are areas the trail is still under snow but you can still see the trail. The snow gets deep, there will be post holing if not starting early enough (it's already getting warm by 7:45am). Poles & micro spikes can help through the icy/hard snow but flotation is necessary right now. Possibly even an ice axe. I turned back at around 11,700 ft because I didn't have snowshoes. With a late start, I started post holing in the trees & got thigh deep (I'm 5'2” for reference). There was a fella with an ice axe & micro spikes that turned back somewhere around 12,000 ft in elevation, not far past the turn to begin the west slopes. He said the snow was slick & the angle got steep, he didn't want to risk it. Looking up the mountain, I believe he turned around at the first gully that's seen on picture 7 on route photos. It does look dicey. I would imagine the gully near 12,800 ft would be equally as dicey. It's possible one can work their way around the snow, but keep in mind that can be time consuming. Thunderstorms were in the forecast today & I wouldn't have made it up & down in the softening snow before it rolled in if I had to work my way around the snow or posthole. I think a couple more weeks will get most of the snow out of the way. 
4 3
Route: Edwardian Couloir
Posted On: 2021-05-02, By: Justin9
Info: Peru creek rd skiable from within 100 yards of parking area. Not enough snow to ski off summit but couloir is in good condition. 
2 1
Route: North Face
Posted On: 2021-04-11, By: Anima
Info: Climbed to 13,600' on Edwards North face today. The face itself consisted of pockets of either bulletproof snow or ankle-deep powder. The higher I got the more powder I encountered. Turned around after one of the mono points on my G14s started wiggling... The approach (following the creek from the Grays summer trailhead) was frozen and well packed by snowmobiles. I skied down from about 13,400' and due to the random pockets of bulletproof snow, wasn't enjoyable. 
Route: North from Grays
Posted On: 2021-01-25, By: blazintoes
Info: Well packed trail all the way to Grays north saddle. Decided against Goatfinger col. snow too thin and fluffy. Enveloped in a calm snowstorm so zero vis but no wind. West ridge of Edwards is a fun scramble with rime. Used crampons the whole time and stayed ridge proper to avoid the fluff. Can't find my gps. It's probably buried on the summit now. It's an old Garmin etrex 20. Lotsa treasure inside if you find it. Oh well. Good day. Torreys Dead Dog col is filled in and Kelso avy trap had already triggered. 
15 1
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-14, By: CaptCO
Info: No snow gear needed, flurries on my descent. 3-4hr RT 7.5mi 2,800' 
8 4
Route: South East Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-13, By: dleflar
Info: The trail from the lower parking lot (Argentine Pass TH) to the ridge saddle had sporadic snow in sections but didn't require microspikes to deal with. The trail from the saddle to the summit had remnants of snow from the previous weekday storm but were easily avoided. Mostly dry on summit, snow still hanging on north edge of ridge line 

Return to the main Peak Conditions page
© 2022®, 14ers Inc.