Pettingell Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Citadel to Pettingell traverse
Posted On: 2019-07-20, By: nickle
Info: Nice day today on the traverse from Citadel to Pettingell. Route is snow free almost all the way to the Citadel, a few places where you have to traverse snow fields for maybe 30 yards. The traverse is snow-free and in good shape - plenty of loose rock from the freeze-thaw season though, tread lightly. Rap station on the traverse has probably 5 strands of tat on 2 rap rings and a quicklink, we (party of 2) and a party of approx 10 ahead of use used it without issue. We did see others climbing Snoopy's Collar as well, looks to still be in good shape with an early start. Photo #1: Distant view of Citadel and traverse Photo #2: Mostly snow-free saddle leading to Citadel Photo #3: Easily avoidable remnant of a cornice Photo #4: E Citadel summit + traverse Photo #5: Looking back on traverse + Snoopy's Collar 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-30, By: rhammond530
Info: The east ridge route is not in condition for scrambling as of Saturday 6/29. There are several wind-loaded pockets with bad run-outs after the halfway point. My guess is that it will probably be good in 10 days to 2 weeks. 
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Route: approach
Posted On: 2019-06-15, By: ktourian
Info: Herman Lake trail- significant debris from multiple avalanches (passable); snow on trail after about 1/4 mile from TH; postholing especially after mid-morning. Climbed up 2nd avalanche chute path (on dry ground- able to avoid snow fields), glissaded down next gully from saddle of peak 12,805 and unnamed peak to west. Patchy snow fields visible on approach to Pettingell; scrambling ridge to peak appeared mostly snow covered. 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2019-05-05, By: jasayrevt
Info: This route qualifies as summit-ready. Ascending to the lake, and above, still has deep snow. So, some traction with trail runners is helpful. Enjoy 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-07, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Summer conditions the entire way. I climbed Hassell Peak first via the CDT so I can't speak to the conditions of the slope if you were to do a direct shot the start of the east ridge from the junction on the Herman Gulch Trail, but the ridge proper was in great shape. South Slopes descent was also in good condition, not too loose or steep. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2018-07-29, By: kingshimmers
Info: Beautiful summer conditions! A few soggy spots directly above Herman Lake due to the recent rains, but otherwise dry. Thunderstorms rolled in from the north and continued to develop overhead with the first thunder heard around 2pm. Lots of marmots and pikas to be seen and a ridiculous amount of wildflowers. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2018-06-24, By: mjdzara18
Info: A few snowfields around, especially when starting the climb past Herman Lake. Mostly avoidable with no post-holing when they had to be crossed. No problem without any traction. 
Route: Citadel-Pettingell traverse
Posted On: 2018-05-24, By: mdmss
Info: Ridge is mostly dry, snow almost entirely avoidable. Solid anchor in place at the drop-off. Look to the right as you approach. We were able to glissade from the summit, but there are large bare patches that would hinder skiing. Not that that stopped a party of two today, who seemed to be having a good time. Surprisingly little postholing on the descent. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-11-25, By: d_baker
Info: Herman Gulch is packed & tracked, didn't need traction or flotation. Some snow around lake to gain gully leading to S slopes. Upper slopes intermittent snow. Ascended route as described on this site and descended face. 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-11-18, By: Pikaskinpants
Info: Very well tracked snow from Herman gulch trailhead to the tree line. Floatation not necessary to make it to the lake, but extremely helpful. Turned around at lake. Used microspikes, should have worn gaiters. 
Route: Up S. Slopes - Down E. Ridge
Posted On: 2017-11-14, By: quaternion
Info: Trail to Herman Lake has a few icy spots down low, then mostly snowy and icy. Moderate postholing. For S slopes choose between the loose rock and swaths of slick, powdered sugar snow. The E ridge has several knife-edge snow crossings, but none of the rock was icy. Challenging conditions, but doable by either route. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2017-07-09, By: jladderud
Info: Summer conditions up there. All snow avoidable. But there are still couloir climb opportunities on both Pettingell and the Citadel. 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-05-06, By: AlexeyD
Info: Second time's the charm! Skied S face/SE ramp right from the summit to about 0.5 miles from TH (right after the aspen stand in Herman Gulch, about where the snow line was a month ago). 6:20 start, 9:30 summit, started descent close to 10. Good overnight freeze despite very warm daytime temps. Snow stayed firm for most of the ascent, and was perfect corn on most of the descent down into Herman Gulch. S face has good coverage currently, a few rocks around 13K but not a problem getting around them. Lots and lots of wet slide debris everywhere - start early and leave early! 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-04-09, By: AlexeyD
Info: SE slopes route is in decent shape for a ski decent. Herman Gulch has continuous snow starting about 1/2 mile up from the TH (just after the large aspen stand on the slope above I-70). Above Herman Lake, snow quality greatly deteriorated (mashed potatoes up to hip deep around 10:30), so we turned around around 12,800'. Get an early start for this one! The upper 700' or so looked a bit rocky, but skiable. The ramp down to Herman Lake has great coverage and offered some nice turns, albeit a bit grappy/dense in places. In general, snow quality elsewhere in the Herman Gulch drainage seemed better than what we experienced: a party that skied the NE bowl of the Citadel reported good conditions throughout the line, and the ski back down the gulch was reasonably fast even as late in the day as we were. Lots of great lines in this area, come and get it! 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-07-05, By: CreekRunner
Info: There are a few patches of snow to cross. The first two are along the approach and have been tread down enough to make the snow firm. The third one, which is the large one the covers the north side of the ramp is pretty solid in the middle and soft on the edges; It might help to have ski poles to prevent slipping. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2016-06-27, By: Brian Thomas
Info: Ridge route to summit is 99% snow free, descent via Herman Lake has some small snow patches to cross. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-05-23, By: emgordon
Info: Left trailhead a little before 7. Trail is covered in running water until you reach continuous, well frozen snow about half a mile in. Citadel and Pettingell couloirs look filled in. Avy debris on east and south facing slopes, west aspects are very dry. Snow bridges holding well. A group at the trailhead said they skied Citadel (starting at 5), we chose a south facing gully off UN 12805 because of our later start. Snow was perfect for descent at 10:00, though we saw many people postholing their way without snowshoes or skis as we were heading down. 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2015-06-21, By: awake
Info: Snow started at Herman Lake and continue for about 800 feet (not quite to the saddle). Then patches of snow from the saddle up to the summit. I was there early in the morning, so the snow was pretty solid. The way back was tricky as that section getting back to Herman Lake was pretty slick and steep. (At least, it seemed steep to me). Not an absolute necessity, but bringing an Ice Axe wouldn‘t be a bad idea. The Citadel looked liked it had quite a bit of snow as well. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2014-07-06, By: cougar
Info: Pettingell Peak is mostly clear. The East Ridge is basically dry, snow not an issue. There is a firm snowfield below the summit for the upper 1/3 of the south slope, it is broken up and can be bypassed with some detouring, descend with caution (there is no runout). Some snow around Herman Lake still - trail is very muddy in spots. Still plenty of snow on east face of the Citadel. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2013-10-14, By: metalmountain
Info: The east ridge of Pettingell was in great shape Saturday. We avoided the slog that seems to be the standard way to access the ridge (which involves heading up to the ridge at the signed turn off) and instead hiked most of the way to the lake. With the snow that was there we were able to head up the small shoulder just east of the lake and then hiked back north toward the ridge and climbed a small gully which contained decent enough snow to get a few kicks in. From then on it was straight forward class 3/4 and we stuck almost entirely to the ridge proper. We descended the standard route. I can‘t recommend taking our route up to the ridge, we just happened to catch it when the snow was in good shape. The gully would be a not so safe place to be had it been loaded up just a bit more. But the conditions on Saturday were great! 

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