James Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: St Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-07-19, By: Intheclouds
Info: Went up james peak today via St Mary's glacier, the trail is looking good but I would recommend some traction or poles for hiking up the glacier it gets slippery. Fun hike with lots of great views and plenty of water sources. If going on the weekend be sure to start early to get a parking spot. Once you pass the glacier you probably won't see anyone else the rest of hike. 
Route: From Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-06-11, By: Aardvark
Info: Lots of snow obscuring the defined trail on the upper part of the route. Need to just estimate a route across the snow fields and go until the trail reveals itself again. Don't trust the myriad footprints in the snow. 
Route: St. Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: SamSS
Info: Continuous snow from bottom to top. Snow started firm, but softened quickly. Postholed for a large portion of the descent. Some areas in the meadow below the peak were starting to fill with melt water. 
Route: Shooting Star Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-30, By: jscully205
Info: Weak freeze Friday resulted in warmer sloppier snow than I would have liked. After no reports I could find of it being climbed I had to be the beta on this one. TLDR - not really in condition in the traditional sense. Superstar is the one to do right now. Some crappy pics below. Good snow coverage on the lower section with a short 5th class rock band to the next section of snow. Rock was poor quality. 2nd section was steeper snow until the final choke which was just a wet rock chimney. Looked to be about 5.7 off-width if climbed direct. I had skis on my back so I took a variation off a right branch to stay on snow and ended up bypassing it with some creative climbing over a connecting snow covered ridge. Final move on exit involved chopping a tunnel through an overhanging cornice in order to reach the flat summit plateau. Snow was in your face steep for the final 3rd of the climb. Used two tools and was glad I did. Would say that it's in depending on who you are but it's partially a mixed climb right now. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2022-04-30, By: ryansunshine20
Info: Skinned up and boarded down the standard route. We had to walk up and down the road before the glacier. Snow was melting on the flat section above the glacier really quickly. Snow was horrendous because of all the recent wind but still a good day out. 
Route: St. Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-04-22, By: illusion7il
Info: 100% continuous snow from the bottom of the glacier to the summit. Coverage is very thin on the flat section above the glacier. 
2 1
Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2022-04-16, By: toomanybananas
Info: Skied continuously from the summit to the base with some easy shark dodging, was able to ski almost continuously back to the car (parked at St Marys) with some harder shark dodging. Had to take off skis for 100ft near the glacier but that's it. Hiking without floatation might be a little tough, but doable. There were plenty of bare fields up high. 
7 5
Route: St Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-04-09, By: csf-lhiver
Info: Ski condition update: Wind blown snow conditions at the glacier run out and from top of James Peak to the bottom near the field to cross. At the top of the glacier route it turns to patches of snow and rock. If you are determined enough you can high step and might find small lines of snow to the base of the hike to James Peak without taking off skis. 
Route: From St Mary\\\\\\\'s glacier
Posted On: 2022-03-27, By: cougar
Info: Just used spikes from st Mary's to top. Fairly dry or firm snow otherwise. Lots of bare areas up higher, including between larger snowfields. Didn't see a continuous ski line from summit. 
6 2
Route: St Mary\\\'s Glacier TH
Posted On: 2021-12-07, By: headsizeburrito
Info: Drove up on Sunday, turned around due to wildfire in Idaho Springs (luckily ended up being small and contained), came back today to try again. First time getting beyond my local trails in a few months and first time on show since last season so a good shakeout. Lots of ice from the TH to shortly above the lake, traction strongly recommended. Once you leave the gully and it starts to level out there is a fair bit of bare ground and patchy snow. More accumulation once you start up the east slope, maybe 6-8" max with plenty of exposed rock. Trail sometimes visible, sometimes not, but large cairns help. I took a direct line up and then roughly followed the trail on the way down. Kept my spikes on all day but could manage without them other than the icy sections down low. Had vague plans to continue to Parry and Eva if I was feeling good, but wind conditions sucked. Rarely more than 100-200yds visibility with occasional near whiteout from stronger gusts so it didn't seem worth the effort. Will have to come back another time to actually see all those lakes south of James! 1) Ice on the way up from the TH 2) Nice conditions at the lake at least 3) Into the weather around 11,600 4) James east slope around 12,000 5) James summit (allegedly per GPS!) Light snow in the forecast for the next couple days, so things could change soon but probably not dramatically. 
Route: East slope
Posted On: 2021-11-28, By: rosey33
Info: Ice to contend with until you clear the glacier. Solid wind blown snow to summit. Traction could be helpful on the descent after the glacier but is not necessary and no need for snow shoes 
4 3
Route: Loch Lomond
Posted On: 2021-10-21, By: mvandergrift
Info: Quick afternoon ascent since we were in the neighborhood. The road up to Loch Lomond is closed halfway up starting October 15, so that does add an additional 2 miles round trip. The actual road itself is in good shape right now and any vehicle with decent clearance should be able to make it to the second gate. There is currently no parking at the base of the road, so make sure you can make it to the seasonal gate. Great fall conditions. Light snow or dirt on most of the trail. A couple of short traverses had 2-4" of very manageable snow. The peak had some ankle-deep snow. We used spikes on the last few hundred feet to the summit, but they wouldn't be necessary if you took it slow. Only saw one other person on the trail coming down as we were starting. 
Route: Rogers Pass
Posted On: 2021-09-26, By: jtlewicki
Info: Summit was awesome! Trail gets a little steep from north side. Posted a video on the conditions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKhAKWqvvMM 
Route: Superstar couloir
Posted On: 2021-05-30, By: PeakSixTD
Info: Snow conditions on superstar were fantastic, until you reach the cornice that is. From the bottom it looked like it may be blunted enough to surmount. That was not the case. I initially planned shooting star because of a prior CR. Shooting star looks worse! A massive cornice blocks gaining the summit from the crux. I also saw a large cornice break later in the day so climbing it even with pro is a bad call right now. Hopefully in a couple of weeks they will both be climbable. I did the full length of superstar and even traversed far right below the cliffs to a mixed line to try and summit that way. 10 feet from the ridge crest required me to traverse back onto snow. It was so slushy and wet with MAJOR exposure that I actually felt more comfortable down climbing the whole thing. I ended above where the cornice was on the other side but did not summit James. 
Route: Southeast slopes from Saint Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2021-05-28, By: mijoflynn
Info: Conditions pretty similar to report from 5/22. Started at 6:00. Still some snow on the trail up to the glacier; the glacier itself was pretty churned up, but nice and firm in the morning. The first half of the meadow above the glacier is mostly tundra, with a crust of ice on the trail. The second half of the meadow to the summit is continuous snow. Microspikes and poles with powder baskets were enough to get there. Glissaded off the top -- my first time! (I don't usually get out to CO until later in the summer, after the snow's gone). Felt like a little kid at an amusement park -- "can I do it again!?!" The snow was dramatically softer by 9:30 on the way down. Postholing started on the lower slopes and continued back into the meadow, but it's only a couple of inches, so I didn't put on my snowshoes and just dealt with wet boots. The trail was mostly running water on the way back. 
Route: Shooting Star
Posted On: 2021-05-27, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Shooting Star is in. Great kickstepping conditions once passed the apron. The traverse over to the apron though had some postholing but was able to push through to where the descent into the basin had more consolidated snow conditions. Recommend two ice tools, for comfort level, angle was probably around 55 to 60 degrees starting from where the Shooting Star branches off. Had to bring snowshoes for the descent, but overall descending the standard route was in good condition for snow travel despite hitting some weather on the way down. 
Route: Shooting Star Couloir to unknown face and Mammoth
Posted On: 2021-05-24, By: slawrence2011
Info: Started hiking up the Glacier around 4:30 AM. In order to access the couloirs from the Glacier approach, you have to do a long traverse right and lose some elevation. We hit this traverse around 6:30, and we were already sinking to ankles at times because it was E facing. We considered turning around as it was avy terrain, but proceeded as it was short, and the couloir itself would be better protected, NE. The apron was laborious as it was E facing, but managed to walk on wet slab debris to the base of the couloir (should that have told me something!). The couloir was much better snow, and I ascended easily with crampons and a single alpine axe. My partner used crampons and two axes. The top was extremely blowover windy, so turned around after 1 second at the summit, didn't even look at the full view. I took one turn in the couloir and sunk 6 inches in skis, so elected not to ski that way because I knew the Apron would be way worse. I took a similar aspect line a little ways down the ridge where I only sunk three inches. It never crossed my mind that I would have to hike back up to the "flats" to get back via the glacier, so I went out via Mammoth Gulch which heads to the Tollins road 5 miles west of Rollinsville. I did not intend to go this way, but was following a stream downstream and figured I would hit a road eventually. I didn't figure it would take 6 hours of bushwhacking, switching from skis to not every 5 minutes. All this to say, if you ski down a couloir, please make sure to climb back up and go out via the glacier, you will thank yourself later! I am not sure what other skiers do or if anyone else did this, as I saw tracks going down where I went, and didn't notice any tracks climbing up the 200 foot steep headwall. 
Route: St Mary\'s glacier
Posted On: 2021-05-22, By: joemcglinchy
Info: Started at roughly 645am, snow was patchy above the glacier but continuous after crossing the meadow. Snow was getting soft around 9am, and being on snowshoes, was punchy. Definitely envious of the skiers today! Looked great out there. Pretty solid coverage the entire way up to the summit. It was getting throughly mushy on the way down. Saw at least 1 person topping out of north star couloir (I think?), looked rad. 
Route: St Mary’s Glacier
Posted On: 2021-05-10, By: HPIvelocity97
Info: Arrived in upper parking lot around 6am, only about 5-10 cars between both lots. Skinned starting about 300yds from trailhead. From there until summit, only had to remove skis by lake/bridge until base of glacier. Decent freeze the night prior, but skins had no issues keeping traction. Decent coverage overall but with some patchy and rapidly thinning spots in the flats above the glacier. Received my free “base grind” crossing these few bald spots (2-3' long). Low cloud ceiling and consistent headwinds really slowed progress. This was also our first trial run on some used AT setups we both purchased this season. Summit around 1030ish. Great views of fog in every direction. Cloud ceiling finally lifted somewhat for a glorious decent in great corn to bottom of glacier. Parking lot was full on arrival (people actively waiting for others to leave). 
Route: Ridge
Posted On: 2021-05-04, By: jbealer
Info: We got a 4am start on Sun in hopes of getting one of the star couliors, by the time we made it to the turn off to drop into the basin we were not feeling great about the snow freezing the night before, we had be postholing on the way up to that point (wore crampons, no Snowshoes), the idea of crossing that snow section and having to cross it again later if the coulior in fact was not great was not worth our chances. There also appeared to be cornices at the top of them. we headed up the ridge from that point, we has sections of snow and rock crossings. If you stuck to more of the summer path you would have snow the whole way. Skiers came up behind us as we were leaving the summit. we were then engulfed by a white out and used GPS to get us back down as we could not see anything a head of us. the trail from the parking lot to the base of the glacier was a mix of soft snow and dirt trail to the sides. 

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