James Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: St Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-11-25, By: Laxer04
Info: Hiked from St Mary's Glacier. We carried snowshoes, but didn't need them. Spikes were super helpful in spots 
Route: St. Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-11-19, By: bryanpeck3
Info: Carried snowshoes but did not use them (one group did but we followed rocks more). Wind covered our tracks quickly. Snow most of the way with some ice to avoid on the glacier. The trail to the glacier was packed down by 12pm after being six inches of fresh snow at 8am. 
Route: St Mary\\\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-11-02, By: KevinInFoCo
Info: Zero cars in the parking lots when I arrived 8:45am. Trail is dry in spots, snow packed and icy in others. Spikes definitely needed, snowshoes are not. Recommend gaiters too, quite a bit of postholing above the plateau all the way to the summit, up to knee deep. A good amount of easy route finding needed on and above the plateau. It's easy to lose the trail there, and often the trail is not the best route right now anyway, as it is a snow-filled trench in places. 
7
Route: from East Portal
Posted On: 2022-10-19, By: the_hare
Info: Route is dry up until James's upper N slope where boot-packed snow fully covers the trail. I would highly recommend microspikes at least for the descent down this section as the snow is quite icy and slick. Winds were forecast as 5-10 mph towards the S/SE, barely felt any wind all day even up on the ridge or upper slopes. The pointy N ridge seemed like a fun class 3/4 time, not sure if anyone's written about it or if it actually goes like that the whole way. East Portal is such a gorgeous area! The trail is decent and gentle, the trees are lush and draped in moss, the rushing S Boulder is stays with you nearly the whole way, and there's plenty of neat structures to explore along the trail. 
6 2
Route: St. Mary’s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-10-09, By: sarahmariekirk
Info: Nearly bone dry - some patchy snow starting at 13k but easily avoidable. I brought micro-spikes but didn't have to use them. Bancroft across the way had substantially more snow. 
Route: Via St. Marys \"Glacier\"
Posted On: 2022-09-03, By: cfitzpatrick
Info: Having visited this peak for many years, I think it's safe to say the "glacier" won't be there much longer during the summer months. This was the worst condition I have ever seen it in, with holes melting through it and many sections of it completely melted. Ascending the glacier probably isn't a good idea anymore during the summer months as it would be very easy to punch through the glacier. If attempting james, the Loch Lomond route is probably the way to go. 
Route: St Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-07-19, By: Intheclouds
Info: Went up james peak today via St Mary's glacier, the trail is looking good but I would recommend some traction or poles for hiking up the glacier it gets slippery. Fun hike with lots of great views and plenty of water sources. If going on the weekend be sure to start early to get a parking spot. Once you pass the glacier you probably won't see anyone else the rest of hike. 
Route: From Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-06-11, By: Aardvark
Info: Lots of snow obscuring the defined trail on the upper part of the route. Need to just estimate a route across the snow fields and go until the trail reveals itself again. Don't trust the myriad footprints in the snow. 
1
Route: St. Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-05-29, By: SamSS
Info: Continuous snow from bottom to top. Snow started firm, but softened quickly. Postholed for a large portion of the descent. Some areas in the meadow below the peak were starting to fill with melt water. 
Route: Shooting Star Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-30, By: jscully205
Info: Weak freeze Friday resulted in warmer sloppier snow than I would have liked. After no reports I could find of it being climbed I had to be the beta on this one. TLDR - not really in condition in the traditional sense. Superstar is the one to do right now. Some crappy pics below. Good snow coverage on the lower section with a short 5th class rock band to the next section of snow. Rock was poor quality. 2nd section was steeper snow until the final choke which was just a wet rock chimney. Looked to be about 5.7 off-width if climbed direct. I had skis on my back so I took a variation off a right branch to stay on snow and ended up bypassing it with some creative climbing over a connecting snow covered ridge. Final move on exit involved chopping a tunnel through an overhanging cornice in order to reach the flat summit plateau. Snow was in your face steep for the final 3rd of the climb. Used two tools and was glad I did. Would say that it's in depending on who you are but it's partially a mixed climb right now. 
4
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2022-04-30, By: ryansunshine20
Info: Skinned up and boarded down the standard route. We had to walk up and down the road before the glacier. Snow was melting on the flat section above the glacier really quickly. Snow was horrendous because of all the recent wind but still a good day out. 
Route: St. Mary\'s Glacier
Posted On: 2022-04-22, By: illusion7il
Info: 100% continuous snow from the bottom of the glacier to the summit. Coverage is very thin on the flat section above the glacier. 
2 1
Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2022-04-16, By: toomanybananas
Info: Skied continuously from the summit to the base with some easy shark dodging, was able to ski almost continuously back to the car (parked at St Marys) with some harder shark dodging. Had to take off skis for 100ft near the glacier but that's it. Hiking without floatation might be a little tough, but doable. There were plenty of bare fields up high. 
7 5
Route: St Marys Glacier
Posted On: 2022-04-09, By: csf-lhiver
Info: Ski condition update: Wind blown snow conditions at the glacier run out and from top of James Peak to the bottom near the field to cross. At the top of the glacier route it turns to patches of snow and rock. If you are determined enough you can high step and might find small lines of snow to the base of the hike to James Peak without taking off skis. 
Route: From St Mary\\\\\\\'s glacier
Posted On: 2022-03-27, By: cougar
Info: Just used spikes from st Mary's to top. Fairly dry or firm snow otherwise. Lots of bare areas up higher, including between larger snowfields. Didn't see a continuous ski line from summit. 
6 2
Route: St Mary\\\'s Glacier TH
Posted On: 2021-12-07, By: headsizeburrito
Info: Drove up on Sunday, turned around due to wildfire in Idaho Springs (luckily ended up being small and contained), came back today to try again. First time getting beyond my local trails in a few months and first time on show since last season so a good shakeout. Lots of ice from the TH to shortly above the lake, traction strongly recommended. Once you leave the gully and it starts to level out there is a fair bit of bare ground and patchy snow. More accumulation once you start up the east slope, maybe 6-8" max with plenty of exposed rock. Trail sometimes visible, sometimes not, but large cairns help. I took a direct line up and then roughly followed the trail on the way down. Kept my spikes on all day but could manage without them other than the icy sections down low. Had vague plans to continue to Parry and Eva if I was feeling good, but wind conditions sucked. Rarely more than 100-200yds visibility with occasional near whiteout from stronger gusts so it didn't seem worth the effort. Will have to come back another time to actually see all those lakes south of James! 1) Ice on the way up from the TH 2) Nice conditions at the lake at least 3) Into the weather around 11,600 4) James east slope around 12,000 5) James summit (allegedly per GPS!) Light snow in the forecast for the next couple days, so things could change soon but probably not dramatically. 
5
Route: East slope
Posted On: 2021-11-28, By: rosey33
Info: Ice to contend with until you clear the glacier. Solid wind blown snow to summit. Traction could be helpful on the descent after the glacier but is not necessary and no need for snow shoes 
4 3
Route: Loch Lomond
Posted On: 2021-10-21, By: mvandergrift
Info: Quick afternoon ascent since we were in the neighborhood. The road up to Loch Lomond is closed halfway up starting October 15, so that does add an additional 2 miles round trip. The actual road itself is in good shape right now and any vehicle with decent clearance should be able to make it to the second gate. There is currently no parking at the base of the road, so make sure you can make it to the seasonal gate. Great fall conditions. Light snow or dirt on most of the trail. A couple of short traverses had 2-4" of very manageable snow. The peak had some ankle-deep snow. We used spikes on the last few hundred feet to the summit, but they wouldn't be necessary if you took it slow. Only saw one other person on the trail coming down as we were starting. 
1
Route: Rogers Pass
Posted On: 2021-09-26, By: jtlewicki
Info: Summit was awesome! Trail gets a little steep from north side. Posted a video on the conditions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKhAKWqvvMM 
3
Route: Superstar couloir
Posted On: 2021-05-30, By: PeakSixTD
Info: Snow conditions on superstar were fantastic, until you reach the cornice that is. From the bottom it looked like it may be blunted enough to surmount. That was not the case. I initially planned shooting star because of a prior CR. Shooting star looks worse! A massive cornice blocks gaining the summit from the crux. I also saw a large cornice break later in the day so climbing it even with pro is a bad call right now. Hopefully in a couple of weeks they will both be climbable. I did the full length of superstar and even traversed far right below the cliffs to a mixed line to try and summit that way. 10 feet from the ridge crest required me to traverse back onto snow. It was so slushy and wet with MAJOR exposure that I actually felt more comfortable down climbing the whole thing. I ended above where the cornice was on the other side but did not summit James. 

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