Mt. Bancroft  
Condition Updates  
Route: Saddle from James Peak
Posted On: 2017-07-01, By: MC.Ikema
Info: A few snowfields on the saddle between James and Bancroft that might hide easier lines across the saddle. Traction not used. No snow on Bancroft. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2016-11-09, By: tjf242424
Info: Basically summer conditions. There are a few patches of snow on the ridge, but none that pose any problems. All of the harder sections are totally dry. No need for traction at any point. Rappel anchor is solid and in great condition. When the scrambling ends, there's some shin deep snow to the summit. The upper gate is closed, but we made it there in a 2011 Outback with no issues. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2015-07-24, By: GregMiller
Info: Two good loops of webbing on the rappel anchor, only some minor wear on one of them, and a good quality rap ring on each. Took a 50m double rope, was comfortably long enough for the rap, and more than enough to climb out of the notch (leader tied into both ends and belayed as twins). Two other guys on the route down climbed into the notch on climber's left side of the ridge, and climbed out left side of the ridge, looked like both went at ~4th class. Also, if anyone is headed up that way, mind taking a nut tool? Had to leave a BD #8 stopper at the bottom of the notch after I got it stuck (and forgot to bring a nut tool like a muppet) - I‘ll gladly trade good beer for it. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2014-08-18, By: AlexeyD
Info: The notch rappel currently has a fully redundant anchor, with two independent pieces of red webbing (good condition) and two beefy rap rings. There‘s also a second anchor (a slung block on a small ledge about 15‘ below the edge of the main drop-off), but there seems no logical reason to use it (rope pull out of the notch was not an issue at all). We mostly stayed on the ridge, and belayed two sections - the short headwall right after the notch, and the second, longer headwall after the "knife edge" after the first headwall. While the "knife edge" did not feel all that exposed, it‘s so close to the second second headwall that we kept the rope out, since we planned to use it there. From the top of the first crux, it‘s about a rope length along the ridge to a convenient belay spot (slingable block) for the second crux. For the second crux, while we belayed all the way to the top of the gendarme (which has a perfect anchor block for a belay), the upper half of the headwall is pretty much third or easy fourth class, and if we were to do it again we‘d probably belay lower down to avoid rope drag. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2014-06-15, By: GregMiller
Info: Climbed Mt. Bancroft's East Ridge today, we were in mountaineering boots but never felt the need to use crampons or axes. We only had to cross snow once, microspikes would do you just fine if you were wearing softer shoes. We got a good freeze, and snow was good all the way in and out. There was snow in the notch, but we just stayed on rappel until we crossed it, and the far wall took a couple cams easily enough. Anchor had a good sling and a good cord, and a semi ratty sling (black one in photo 3) that we replaced. Was able to get a Subaru Outback to about a 1/4 mi down from the second gate. Left the car at ~4:30, got to the lake at about 5:15, waited there until sunrise at ~5:30, hit the notch at 7, finished cleaning up the climbing gear at 8, summitted Bancroft at 10:15, back at the car at 12:05. See more pictures here: 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2013-05-27, By: metalmountain
Info: Climbed the east ridge of Bancroft on Saturday. Its in great shape right now, and still lots of snow. There is new webbing at the notch for the rap, and both the 4th class go around and the 5th class direct climb out of the notch are snow free. You will definitely want crampons and an ice ax, as there are several knife edges of snow that will need to be crossed. There was some ice in a few places in the class 3/4 areas, but not really all that much. Go get it before the snow melts! 
Route: E. Ridge
Posted On: 2012-11-08, By: powhound
Info: Didn‘t climb it, but took some pics from James right next door. It seems to be mostly dry in the places you would want it to be. Could email pics if anyone is interested in getting it Friday before the weekend storm. 
Route: E Ridge
Posted On: 2012-07-22, By: Monster5
Info: Upper webbing looks a bit ratty. Lower webbing bundle/ring 15' down is in good condition. A 30m rope would probably make it down the lower rap. The 5.2 section has a stuck nut half way up that can be clipped. If bootied or loosened, the crack to the left takes a #1 C4 well. Clipped the one piece and didn't place anything else, 'sides for the anchor. It's pretty short. The rest of the ridge offers plenty of good scrambling. It could probably be kept at class 3ish with route finding, but there are numerous options. Bancroft to Parry and Eva is a dry tundra/talus walk. Getting down to Fall River Res and up to Loch Lomond is interesting. If the weather holds, it may be better to side hill Parry and Bancroft and return via Bancroft's SE ridge. Pics 

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