Taylor Peak B  
Condition Updates  
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2022-06-26, By: jfm3
Info: The trail from the parking lot to The Loch is dry. I took the Glacier Knobs shortcut. There is some standing water around The Loch. The initial climb up the Andrews Creek trail is dry. The snow starts right at the treeline. It is possible to stay on snow all the way up the slope to Andrews Tarn. The snow on this slope is very slick. It is supportive (I never sank through) but even with crampons my footsteps slid and blew out. Ice axe plunges were solid. The trail around Andrews Tarn is dry. The snow on Andrews Glacier is not as slick, and very supportive. The upper part of Taylor Peak from the glacier to the summit is mostly dry. There are two small, icy snowfields that could be avoided entirely. On the descent, I saw two people in microspikes sliding around a lot on the lower snowfield. I think crampons and an ice axe are still required for easy/safe passage. 
Route: Via Flattop Mountain
Posted On: 2021-10-17, By: supranihilest
Info: The lowest mile of the trail is dryish. After that mile we wore spikes until treeline where the snow and ice on the trail thins out considerably. We also wore our spikes down from treeline and were very happy to have them given how slick the trail was, sometimes ice a couple inches thick. From the summit of Flattop Mountain to Taylor is tundra with embedded boulders and plenty of patchy snow, which melted a lot during the day and will continue melting this week. The snow from Flattop to the low point below Taylor is mostly avoidable. Going up Taylor is very snowy owing to its northern aspect. Expect annoying rock hopping to avoid the snow, which can be done to a very high degree with enough hopping. We wore trail runners and were fine, those who get cold easily, move slowly, and/or don't want to bother avoiding the snow should wear warmer or more waterproof footwear. 
Route: Seen from Hallett Peak
Posted On: 2021-05-28, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Hallett Peak today and got a look at the north side of Taylor Peak. Looks like continuous snow coverage from Andrews Glacier to the summit. 
Route: From Powell
Posted On: 2020-06-08, By: B_2
Info: A very enjoyable class 1-2 tundra walk from Powell, down Andrews Glacier which was lovely in the afternoon for a glissade and exit. Drainages are highly variable right now in RMNP right now both levels and firmness. Andrews drainage had continuous snow all the way back down to the Loch, luckily minor postholing. Taylor glacier looks like a terror right now. All cornices at top are ready to fall, snow looks pretty rotten on steeper top section. I'll classify it as a NOPE. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2020-06-01, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Otis Peak via the glacier. Snow starts above the switchbacks on the Loch trail at 10,000 feet. There is a clear path that mostly follows the summer trail around the Loch. No path or visible trail in the trees at the Andrews Glacier turn. My advice is to turn up toward the glacier before you cross the creek. It quickly opens up into the creekbed and large amphitheater below the Sharkstooth. I put on crampons here and it was great snow climbing with crampons and axe up to the tarn. The upper part of the headwall is steep snow. On the way down I missed a foot placement and had to self-arrest. The glacier is all snow right now- I didn't see any ice or crevasses. The safest path is right up the center. The south side is at the bottom of a gully with a huge cornice about 400 feet overhead. I saw a chunk calve off on my descent. A huge amount of debris came down and a few pieces almost landed in the tarn. Snow was getting soft and wet by 10 AM but it felt firm underneath and there was no evidence of avalanche activity. The upper slopes of Taylor are partially dry, partially snow. Not sure how thick/firm the snow is- it may be thin crust covering the mix of tundra and talus up there. Photos 1. Snow below the Sharkstooth 2. Upper glacier from the summit of Otis Peak. The cornice zone is visible left of center. 3. Descending the glacier 4. Glacier from the tarn. 2 skiers are heading up for a second run. 5. Headwall & basin below the tarn. The headwall is the steepest part of the route right now. No getting up/down without axe & crampons. 6. Taylor Peak from the summit of Otis. 
6 1
Route: Stone Man Pass
Posted On: 2019-09-16, By: BrandonSlacks
Info: Clear and dry. No snow from last weeks storm. Some water running in parts of the tundra--enough to collect and filter. 
Route: Via Flattop Mountain
Posted On: 2019-07-28, By: shaunblair
Info: Dry. Be prepared - this is not an easy tundra walk as described on the route page, but more like an eight mile rock hop from the summit of Flattop out to Powell and back. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2018-09-08, By: cougar
Info: Andrews Glacier is a mess, worst I've ever seen it by far. Mostly a lot of melting, dirty, hard ice. 20ft deep crevasses have opened up near the top, running the entire width. Good spot to train for Rainier though. And weak snow bridges over some. Cross on climbers left, sketchy. I was able to ascend and descend with spikes and axe, upper part was a bit better. Not safe to glissade, via flattop would be preferable. Summit log has been replaced. 
Route: Via Flattop Mountain
Posted On: 2018-08-31, By: Bombay2Boulder
Info: The summit register seems new but is empty and does have a pen in it, someone going up there might wanna take a log book to add. 
Route: Via Flattop Mountain
Posted On: 2017-07-30, By: jasayrevt
Info: Also, traversed over to Powell (13,208'). 13er summits are an inspiring, invigorating hobby. This classic route is another recommended, straightforward path. It has incredible views of many quality neighboring RMNP Front Rangers (i.e. Alice, Chief's Head, Longs, McHenry's, etc.). Conditions up high were summer bluebird. So, perfect for navigating these slopes and ridge line extremely well. Standard light pack plus trail runners approach was good. Pictures with a topographic map diagram have been included as beta. Climb safely out there mountaineers 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2017-06-26, By: koeffling
Info: The trail way mostly clear or snow packed and well traveled until the Andrew's glacier cutoff. We buchswacked a little through the trees to the base of the glacier but it was fairly short and straightforward. We got to the glacier around 8:30 and it was in good shape and stayed so until our descent. The headwall leading up to Andrew's Tarn was steeper than the glacier and with a lot of rock in the runoff paths. We didn't see any crevasses, ascended climbers left. 95% grassy slopes above the the glacier to Taylor's dry summit. Axe essential until the summer trail has melted out for the headwall to the Tarn. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2016-07-24, By: graberz
Info: Andrew's Glacier route up and down using micro-spikes with glissade down. Round trip was 13.7 miles, 4000 feet elevation, and 7 hours and 30 minutes to complete. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2016-02-28, By: emgordon
Info: Coming from Glacier Gorge TH, traction is necessary with icy patches up to the the trail split. Very well packed to the Loch (to save a little time, go left towards Mills Lake then head right up the creek). Lake is definitely solid to cross. There is a loosely packed path past the Loch, not sure how far it goes because we turned around just past the solar panel/rain gauge. Snowshoes are probably worth carrying if you want to reach Andrews Glacier or Sky Pond. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2015-11-09, By: Alpine
Info: Our plan was to hit up Andrew’s Glacier for some easy crampon work, with additional hopes for either Otis or Taylor. Didn’t make any of the above. Trail is well packed to the Sky Pond/Andrews split and even up to the meadow at about 10600. No need for snowshoes or microspikes (okay - microspikes might be helpful but def not required). From there it was SLOW going - we couldn’t find the trail in this area so it was essentially off trail travel - breaking trail through 1-2 feet of heavy, wet, non-supportive powder. On top of that is it death trap country - man-eating holes between table and car size rocks. That means thigh- to chest-deep fun at times. Anyway, snowshoes may have been helpful in that area. As soon as we could we moved higher up the scree slopes to the north - little or no snow there so get high and stay high is the name of the game. We made it to the base of the headwall below the tarn and hit our turnaround time. We weren’t prepared for after-dark travel and could see we wouldn’t make any summits so settled for some pseudo-glissading and crampon practice on the headwall snow. Available slopes and snow conditions made for only so-so practice time. We gambled on the no-snowshoe thing, and lost. Hello to "Grasshopper" if you see this. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2015-06-14, By: piper14er
Info: The roundtrip was approximately 15.3 miles and 4900 feet including Powell Peak. The Glacier Gorge Trail (see 13ers.com link for Taylor or Powell and Glacier Gorge Route) is near the end of Bear Lake Road shortly before the Bear Lake parking area. The trail to the falls is groomed for the tourist and well maintained up to Loch Vale. My personal preference is to not have all those steps since they are not made for the normal humans strides (maybe Bigfoot). The trail was snow free up to about 10,000 feet and then sporadic stretches to the lake which were well packed by many boots. I did not take or need snowshoes. I took crampons and ice axe for the glacier but I did not need them going up or down due to all the slush. The glacier is not steep and as a matter of fact the snow climb below the tarn was steeper. My ice axe sank up the axe so the snow/slush was at least that deep over the glacier. There was snow from the turn off from Loch Vale up to the top of the glacier. Slushy snow that was not deep but does slow you down some. I figured a summer hike to take an hour to an hour and a half less time, maybe more. Snow stretches up to Taylor and then over to Powell but not deep, some minor postholing. Stormy weather for the trek back from Powell, thunder that seemed close and lightning far off. I was thinking of hitting Otis Peak but decided against it with the weather, should have moved faster on the 13ers I guess. It rained on me after a short slow glissade down the glacier and down to the trailhead. 
Route: Via Andrews Glacier
Posted On: 2014-06-22, By: jeremy27
Info: Didn‘t climb Taylor. Climbed Otis via Andrews glacier instead but Taylor looked snow free once on the divide. Very little snow on the west side of the divide. The glacier is in good condition. The head wall beneath the tarn was steeper and firmer but still in good condition. No post holing from the trail to tree line but still plenty of snow. We descended the flattop trail which was a mess. Plenty of wet snow post holing. Good luck. PM for details. 

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