Half Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: West Slopes Via Cuba Gulch
Posted On: 2022-07-03, By: Doomhammer
Info: Summer Conditions, trail pretty faint but easy to follow to treeline, willows can be mostly avoided by staying to the right and going up to the ridge and joining the CDT. Went around the willows on the way down but ended up too high and had to do a steep bushwhack back down to the trail. Class 1 the majority of the way with a couple class 2 moves on the summit ridge with some decent exposure, Great views from the summit. 
Route: south slopes
Posted On: 2022-06-16, By: zootloopz
Info: Big day in combination with the Pole Creeks. ~25 miles / 8.5k gain. Summer conditions. Although expect to get your feet wet. Also, willows are the worst on sunburned legs. W/ vertical_volume 
3 2
Route: via Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2022-05-31, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Almost completely bone dry, basically summer conditions. Few inconsequential snow spots in the upper basin. Actually put on spikes to cross a frozen tree over the creek before the sun came up. Ridge crux section is clear and dry. Excellent trail all the way to the Colorado Trail, and excellent from there until you start up the South Slopes of Half. Smooth all the way basically, zero talus up high. Great peak, ridge section is fantastic. Mileage was 15.5ish, time was 7 hours or so. Saw nobody all day. 
Route: Via Cuba Gulch
Posted On: 2022-05-28, By: Reg0928
Info: Looped Pt 13003 (Pt 12990 pre lidar), Pt 13164, and Half Pk from Cuba Gulch. Wet and muddy, especially in the willows, but never really dealt with any snow. Crossed a couple really short fields high in the basin with no traction or postholing. As close to summer conditions as you'll get without it being totally dry 
10 2
Route: Cataract Gulch to South Ridge
Posted On: 2022-01-15, By: Geckser
Info: Pretty good conditions on Half Peak. The snow was generally supportive throughout the whole trip. We travelled on skis to 12,600 on the CDT at which point we summited with trail runners. Clear skis, warm weather, truly a beautiful day. The track that we set up will probably be somewhat supportive. Large swaths in the Basin will likely be filled in with snow. I could not find a single winter trip report for Half so I will probably write one up in the coming week. Overall very fun trip! The conditions will likely not get much better than this in the winter so get while the gettings good. Also got to meet the legendary Dad Mike, needless to say I was honored 
7 1
Route: South Ridge from Cataract Lake
Posted On: 2021-10-25, By: Anima
Info: Went back this weekend and got her done. There we a couple of newly downed trees across the trail and no one had signed the trail register since my entry the week prior. My previous tracks were mostly gone, but I retrenched the entire thing. Lots of snow along the Cataract Trail, but only intermittent snow along the CDT. The south ridge also has intermittent snow, but the catwalk is dry. A beautiful summit. 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2021-10-18, By: Anima
Info: Continuous snow from the trailhead. For the first two miles, there are only a couple of inches of snow with lots of tracks. Once you reach the waterfall the snow becomes substantially deeper, probably averaging six inches or so. My partner decided to turn around at the waterfall where the tracks from previous parties ended but I continued on alone breaking trail. Once above treeline, the snow was knee-deep in lots of places. I just about made it to Cataract Lake before calling it quits as it had taken me four hours just to get there. I was happy to have all of my winter gear. I brought snowshoes but they didn't seem to help much as I was sinking just as deep with them on. Will be back next weekend to get her done. 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2021-10-05, By: madmattd
Info: Easy approach up the Cataract Gulch Trail to the CDT. A few pockets of mud in the basin as the trail meanders up and down. We headed up the right side of the gulley/small stream where the CDT swings SW around 12,500'. No notable snow until ~13,400'. The hourglass was largely dry with pockets of snow that took some care to pass, but not too bad. Microspikes would have only been useful for 1-2 5' long spots, we managed fine without. Roach suggests you drop a lot further off the ridge than we did; maybe snow hid a simpler route, though it seemed to cliff out pretty fast. We were rarely more than 5-10' below (on the West), one notch required us to drop ~25' below. The final easy summit ridge was snow-covered but only ~2" deep for the most part. Beautiful clear, calm day. Easy miles overall, we finished a good 45min ahead of expectations which made for an earlier arrival back in the Denver area, nice! A note on the distance: we, like many others, recorded around 15mi round-trip versus the ~13mi that one would infer from Roach's guide. It seems the difference lies in how utterly inaccurate the USFS representation of the trail is. It has a bunch of early switchbacks, and also climbs on a couple switchbacks up to the East side of the valley well above the valley floor. This is likely where the distance discrepancy comes in. Overall around 4600' of gain as well. 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2021-10-03, By: Dan_Suitor
Info: Trail was clear. Did not encounter snow until around 12,500'. Snow never exceeded a few inches. Catwalk was covered in soft slick snow. Microspikes were a must on the catwalk, which was more like a ridge in some places. 
Route: South Ridge from Cataract Lake
Posted On: 2021-08-19, By: supranihilest
Info: There's a solid trail from Cataract Lake up to the Continental Divide and then west under Half's south side. There's a bunch of east facing cliffs that initially block access to the southern plateau, but eventually a large, obvious grass gully presents itself and allows access to the south plateau. The plateau eventually narrows dramatically into Half's famed catwalk south ridge. This thing is sheer on the east side and looks ridiculous but it's Class 2 the whole way across. Some spots are exposed and the whole thing is covered in scree but it's never difficult. Some route finding is necessary but if it gets hard in any way you've gotten off route. Once across the ridge the northern plateau is once again easy, with the summit being on the northwest corner. An ultra-classic route. 
Route: Tour de Half
Posted On: 2021-07-21, By: brauda02
Info: Climbed Roach's Tour de Half today by ascending the East Slopes route and descending the standard South Ridge. I also tacked on Point 13,164'. Great trail to the small lake before Cataract Lake but you well get your feet wet in a few muddy spots. There is a cairn which marks where to turn. The route is fairly straightforward up the short class 3 section. There is a cairn in a notch at 13,500 and I descended a bit before climbing back up a system of loose gullies. I crossed over to the left most and ended up climbing a class 3/4 chimney to easier terrain. Near the top of the chimney I dislodged a watermelon that would have killed/seriously injured anyone below me. I highly recommend a helmet if you're going with a group. I think I was off route a bit as there were cairns when I topped out of the chimney looking down at another gully. I thought the bottleneck ridge was surprisingly easy. I would rate it as class 1+ as there's a solid climber's trail all the way across that never gets that close to the cliffs on the east side. I've seen it compared the to the catwalk on Eolus: it's much easier than that. Point 13,164 offers an easy climb and a dramatic view of Half. There's a register here but none I could find on Half. 
3 1
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2021-07-08, By: dcsheldon
Info: Summer conditions. Up in the basin near the lakes the ground is saturated in many places. Flip flops worked well for crossing the stream in 3 locations. Just below the water falls and just above. Then another spot between the falls and Cataract lake. 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2021-02-08, By: blazintoes
Info: This climb ruined my antique iPhone. The charging port got wet and fried. Was able to recover pics using an online data recovery tool just so I could post here. Priorities. Road is plowed to and there is a lot of snow up Cataract Gulch. Did some class 4 snowshoeing up and broke trail the entire way. It took forever to get above treeline. Was up to my waist in snow from 10,000-11,500'. Tough. Sporadic wind gusts all day and was totally wiped out at the summit. Hard to take pictures when buried in snow. Cleared all the snow off me, my pack, my gear, snapped a few photos and the hike out now trenched wasn't as much work as it's been in the past. There is a lot of snow in the San Juans. Handies looks like it'll be tough to get this year. 
7 2
Route: Da shit route
Posted On: 2020-11-04, By: CaptCO
Info: Same conditions Supran posted. Boot packed (probably off route) to half peak. Never used traction or gaiters road gets icy after cataract TH 16mi and 5,200' gain, don't ask how..(13k+ gain/loss) 
10 2
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2020-10-11, By: durkan
Info: Dry. Couldn't find a register. From Cataract Gulch, went SOBO on CT then NNW up a slight gully to gain the south ridge. Before going up this there is a small seasosnal creek option to fill up water. There are options to willow dodge going up. Option 2 is follow the CT to the next saddle, then begin walking up the gradual ridge North from there. Similar to the old report, follow the trail in front of you. 15 miles round-trip. 
Route: East face
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: Alrightmax
Info: DO NOT TRUST USFS/Roach trail to cataract lake. We made a GPX off that, and it was very wrong. Follow the obvious trail in front of you! A few of the stream crossings will necessitate ford, so be prepared to get your feet wet. (Though this is more or less peak flow, YMMV.) An ice axe is still useful for the East face - my partner and I came up too high on the ridge, had to cross a snowfield, and I slid ~200'. Lucky to only have broken skin! The South Ridge is summer conditions. 
Route: Cuba Gulch
Posted On: 2019-09-16, By: Randy1983
Info: Road to Cuba Gulch TH passes through maybe 3 solid Av debris fields, thankfully the road is passable. Route from Cuba Gulch to the link up with the CDT is at most 25% trail. The majority of the first 200 or so feet is more or less destroyed by Av debris. Somewhat ok trail from near 11,000' to the small camp site near 11,500. No trail from there to the CDT other than a few cairns and the occasional path through the willows. Straight forward hiking on the CDT and ramp to the upper ridge. Roach rates that ridge at Class 2. Not to me. This has some areas of what I would rate class 3 and other areas that are class 2 with high to very high exposure on loose, crumbly rock. Thanks to info from madadraw1, we decided to descend the route to Cataract Gulch. Made for one epic "Tour De Half". Thanks again to madadraw1 for sharing the trail with us that day.  
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2019-09-15, By: madadraw1
Info: South Ridge via Cataract Gulch TH. Don't agree with Roach's report of 12.6 mi RT. Based on my GPS and a friend's GPS from a different day, this is more likely about 15 mi RT. The creek crossing early in the hike has new logs (two logs to make the crossing easy/stable). Shortly after that are plenty of long switch backs on a great trail. There are 3 more creek crossings before leaving tree line, all easy in Sept. Mind potential for social trails at the crossings, but easy to figure it out quickly. Very nice waterfall just below tree line. Once you make the hiker's right hand turn onto the CD Trail, you won't yet see the drainage/slope you ascend to reach the ridge. Keep hiking on the great trail and it is very obvious when you come upon it. The ridge is mostly as reported, class 2, but with good exposure / narrow sections of ridge. One ~20 foot section where you cross the notch towards the East that I did some easy class 3. There is no snow on this route currently. Despite the milage, I thought it was a gentle cruiser day. Met two hikers at the ridge who came up Cuba Gulch. Apparently that route is riddled with fallen trees/avy debris. They descended with me via Cataract Gulch. Longer milage on Cataract side but much quicker hiking. 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2019-08-21, By: dwoodward13
Info: There is no longer any remnants of avy debris blocking the trail. After reaching the large waterfall, make sure to cross to the left side of the creek right reaching the top. There are paths on the right side that turn into a bushwacking mess. The left side has a perfect trail. Note that at some point the trail has be realigned, so it didn't match any of my maps, but it is well marked and defined. Camped overnight at Cataract Lake which was home to 6 bull moose in the morning! Followed the CT/CDT to the turnoff for Half's south ridge. Easy grassy slope leading to the Class 2 section. Class 2 section is very exposed in places, but a well worn use path is in, so route finding is not an issue. One of my all time favorite summits! 
Route: Cataract Gulch
Posted On: 2019-07-07, By: angry
Info: Absolutely not required to perform class 4 move to get over waterfall as stated in previous report. Follow the well defined trail. Before reaching the base of the fall turn right into the willows (pic 1). I placed a couple branches here but if you look through the willows you will see a log bridge (pic 2 & 3). Cross over water and navigate the downed trees back to the trail. Reach the very top of the fall where you will see some logs that don't go completely across the water (pic 4). Keep going and you'll see an overhanging tree (pic 5). From this point, head up into the trees on climbers right and follow a faint use trail (pic 6). There will be bushwhacking (very short section, pic 7 & and you will exit at a big rock cairn (pic 9). Follow the rock path until it reconnects with the cataract gulch trail. Route is class 1 all the way until you are on the very short class 2 ridge section. Don't make it harder than it should be. 
9 3

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