Teakettle Mountain  
Condition Updates  
Route: Yankee boy
Posted On: 2022-06-28, By: zootloopz
Info: Just as loose as everyone says. Summer conditions if you pick the right gullies. No ropes. Used trail runners. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2022-06-26, By: Buddyboy27
Info: All dry. Rap slings and rings look good, some are showing a little wear. Not sure who has been setting them, but thanks! Potosi north chute looks skiable still with a bit of finesse here and there 
5 1
Route: South Face
Posted On: 2022-05-15, By: supranihilest
Info: First 800 or so feet are dry unless you find a snow gully. In the bowl south of Teakettle all snow. Very suncupped snow in the western couloir, some ice under the snow. Ledge traverse is melting out a bit but possible to stay on snow 99% of the way to the summit ridge. Snow on the summit block eliminates most of the lower scramble into the chimney, which has a bit of snow jammed into it at the bottom but is mostly avoidable. Rappel anchors and rings are in good shape. Gear: ice axe and crampons mandatory for the couloir and ledges. Flotation pretty useless, the route is too steep. Rope for rappelling if you don't want to down climb the summit block. 
10 5
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2021-08-16, By: Will_E
Info: Webbing and quick links at summit are in good shape. Scree filled gully is not in good shape, it was miserable to come down. 
Route: Black Gully
Posted On: 2021-07-30, By: Slawson405
Info: Summer conditions. Had a wet week, the moisture helped the rubble in the black gully solidify so its pretty stable. Initial Choss slog up to coffeepot is loose, as always apparently. Came down the west side of Coffeepot on the way down and was very glad i did. 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-27, By: kempenjn
Info: Microspikes highly recommended. Hail and snow overnight from 6/26-6/27. Loose rock and mud is the name of the game. Black gully has some snow. A few snowfields to cross before the black gully. No snow on summit pitch. Rap station is adequately equipped with ~4 slings, a few rap rings, one wiregate carabiner, one quicklink. Met up with Ocnorb unexpectedly. I lead my first trad pitch and set up a toprope for 5 of us. 
Route: South Gully
Posted On: 2021-05-12, By: SnowAlien
Info: Great conditions and good coverage, a bit avy debris in the narrow part of the gully. So much better as a snow climb than when dry. 30m rope is perfect for the rap. Dropped in around 11am, chute was still a bit firm, apron was perfect. 
6 3
Route: Yankee Boy Direct
Posted On: 2020-08-03, By: CaptCO
Info: Loose rock as expected, slings in good shape, and a few cairns to mark the route. Solo up rap down, made for a 8~ hour day and a tough 3.3mi and 2,815'. Climbed with coffeepot as well 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-07-03, By: dwoodward13
Info: Nice trail from 4x4 bathrooms up to the start of the scree field between Teakettle and Coffeepot. The gully is horrible. Best to space out your party in different fall lines as you will kick stuff down. Black gully to the base of the summit pitch has a well worn trail with two short snow crossing (could also bypass). Rap station in good shape with 3 slings and 2 rap rings in good condition. 
Route: Up the hill
Posted On: 2020-06-27, By: Jon Frohlich
Info: A few very short snow patches left that didn't really present any obstacles. We didn't carry ice axes and just crossed them with trekking poles. Otherwise dry. Webbing on the summit is in good shape and two rap rings. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: OwenRichardson
Info: Mostly free of snow, but a mountain axe was nice to have in places (notably one short field above the Black Gully). There is no way to avoid the loose garbage below Coffeepot on snow. I anticipate the snow will be gone/completely avoidable shortly. Beware though, the Texans are out in full force... 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-08-27, By: dcruz654
Info: Zero snow anywhere on route. I'm not sure if I climbed the crux differently than you're suposed to, but it felt slightly harder than Dallas's crux I did the day before. I didn't carry any pro but I was able to poorly sling a large rock that would have protected a long tumble down the loose scree at the bottom, but not so much the actual crux moves. Took Roach's variation up tea, then standard over to coffee and down coffee. Would not recommend. Go right up to Coffee first, over to tea, then back to coffee and down the way you ascended. 1-summit area 2-loose gulley below the black gulley. much more unstable than the gulley just east of coffee 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-08-12, By: angry
Info: Rained prior so the route was somewhat muddy. The scree is pretty terrible ascending and descending so it probably doesn't matter if it's completely dry anyway. Black gully is loose. Summit block is dry. I'd repeat as a snow climb. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-07-29, By: benglish
Info: Dry. Some snow on the route but it is easily avoided. Choss abounds. 
Route: Standard Route
Posted On: 2018-05-20, By: zdero1
Info: Snow free until 12,400'. Snowshoes unnecessary. Mostly solid snow in the couloir, with a few patches of scree present in the middle and top of it. The summit pitch was dry. I'd imagine the snow should be good for at least another week, but it's melting out fast. Climbing Teakettle dry appears to be an awful idea given how chossy the slope is. Get this peak while you can. 
Route: South slopes/ SE ridge
Posted On: 2018-04-29, By: RyGuy
Info: Teakettle is in decent shape all things considered. You currently can park at the lower 4WD TH in Yankee Boy Basin and start from there. We never used snowshoes (Might have been nice for the last few hundred yards back to the car) but Crampons/Ice axe are mandatory. The access couloir is in ok shape. Lots of wet slide debris to climb up. We started at 5:17AM and were postholing a bit most of the climb. The anchor on the summit block appears to be in good shape. No concerns. 
8 1
Route: SE face
Posted On: 2016-07-10, By: Stone_man
Info: Route is in good shape; black gully is dry, and all snow on upper flanks can be avoided/skirted. Lots of webbing slings on summit rap block, in reasonable condition. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2015-07-13, By: mrickers
Info: Route up to the bench by Coffeepot and over to the Black Gully is dry. Black Gully is snow-free, but really wet and muddy. Above the Black Gully, there are a few snowfields to cross. Ice axe was nice. Did not use traction of any kind. (pic #1) Summit pitch is dry. (pic #2) We descended the choss slope below the Black Gully, also dry. (pic #3) Go get it! 
Route: Black gully
Posted On: 2014-08-29, By: ngoodnight
Info: Climbed Teakettle this morning. The recent storm left a spattering of snow above 12k - maybe 1". The crux of the day was down climbing from Coffepot to the base of the black gully, only because that entire section contained firm snow and occasional ice on the rocks. We used micro spikes, and I wouldn‘t have done it without them. Not enough snow for more serious traction. I imagine most of the snow will be gone if it stays sunny for a couple days. Considering I scanned a few trip reports looking for gear references, here is what we used: 30m rope, one 0.5 Camalot with shoulder sling for extension (perfect placement about half way up), two double length runners to sling the natural at the summit. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2013-07-28, By: Wentzl
Info: OK, so it is just a cool picture of Teakettle. Conditions? It was wet yesterday. 

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