Dallas Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Rib/West Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-24, By: Geckser
Info: Great conditions this morning, 5 hours 20 minutes car to car. Glad to get down early before the late afternoon Lightning. We took the 5.7 variation to the summit. Fun little route for folks looking for an extra thrill. Glad to have the rope for rappelling down. A little snow at the base of the rappel but nothing that caused any issues. Super fun peak! Probably won't do it again though 
7 3
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2022-07-24, By: kempenjn
Info: No snow except for the base of the summit rappel. All rap stations appear to be in good condition. 6 people in 11.5 hrs car to car. 
Route: East face
Posted On: 2022-07-02, By: zootloopz
Info: Summer conditions except for some snow at the base of the summit pitch, and at the bottom of the long summit rappel. No biggie. Brought a 46m rope and split it into 2 raps. Rock did not feel that bad compared to all the other San Juan junk I've been on. 11 hours round trip. Solo'd up. Rappelled down. Hail around 2pm on the way down. Fun day! 
Route: Northeast
Posted On: 2022-02-14, By: blazintoes
Info: Approached via Stan's shortcut. Was nice to scramble on rock. Then pounced directly up the south scree face. The snow was stair stepping quality with occasional punch if I stepped on an air pocket. A FFL helicopter flew by twice. Made good time to the standard route and once I turned to the east face the snow was terribly sugary and burned energy. Since I was solo I chose the standard 5.3 north scramble and it took me 90 minutes to rope solo 40 feet because once I set up my anchor point on top I got to climb it twice to retrieve gear. It was an outstanding winter weather day. Views aplenty. Rapped from the summit. The snow turned icy after the sun set and I front pointed down east and 600' down south. 
15 16
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2021-10-11, By: lkk8815
Info: Should have brought the cams - turned around just shy of the summit. South side approach from Mill Creek was sunny, wonderful, and dry until higher up where there was some intermittent snow. We brought spikes but the snow was soft enough to kickstep without them. Turning onto the north face was entering a whole new world. Cold, holding more snow than expected, and super icy in all the wrong places. The chimney was very slick and hard to protect. We spent over 2 hours getting through the chimney and trying different cracks to get up the summit pitch but couldn't find a way that felt safe enough with the gear we had. We had only brought some slings, tricams, and nuts. I think we would have made it if we'd just brought a few cams instead of trying to go lightweight. Even a tool would have helped. Also could have tried that route on the east face where there was significantly less snow, but at that point we were too frozen and over it to spend more time in the frigid shade. I was too frozen and focused to take any photos past the chimney. That whole ramp along the north face was holding a ton of snow, which made it not very easy to wander back and forth looking for different ways up. Leaving this condition report for future reference for people attempting in shoulder season, since this will be outdated info by tomorrow morning with more snow on the way. I'm gonna be real grumpy about this until we go back and finish it. Guess that's how things go sometimes! 
5 2
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-09-06, By: supranihilest
Info: Trail to the south slopes is in good shape. On the ascent we were led astray by several cairns far to the left of where we should have been; if you find yourself climbing past a red webbing rappel anchor you're in the wrong place and too far left. The proper route trends up and to climber's right to a saddle with a large, obvious cairn on it. Class 4 headwall was easier and more solid than expected but test every hold. The "Class 4" chimney felt like Class 5 to both myself and my climbing partner and was the only part of the route we definitely felt warranted a rope and protection. The upper pitches to the summit felt more like Class 3-4 on rock more solid than expected. Rap stations at the summit, at the top of the standard rap chockstone, the top of the "Class 4" chimney, and the top of the Class 4 headwall all in good shape. A piece of advice from Mike Rodenak (Chicago Transplant) who we ran into the day before: instead of finishing the standard rap through the chockstone hole, rap over to the top of the "Class 4" chimney and rap that instead. The chockstone descent is horrible, steep, bare hardpan with ZERO traction. We followed Mike's advice (thank you!) and had an easier time. Another piece of advice: bring microspikes. There's 2,000+ feet of scree and hardpan on this route, sometimes very exposed, that will be 10x easier with microspikes. 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-09-06, By: Danger_D
Info: Completely dry. All rap anchors (summit, and the 2 class 4 sections) are all in great shape. The 4th class chimney felt more like low 5th IMO, and my less experienced partner appreciated a rope. On the short crux pitch I placed a .4 at the belay, a .5 in about 10 feet up, and built an anchor about 10 feet above the crux pitch in a dihedral using a .75, 1, and 2 (could use less, but I had them). Didn't use rope after that. In general, this trip report was super helpful for route-finding near the top https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=15410 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2021-08-22, By: yaktoleft13
Info: Dallas received the same dusting snow that the other peaks in the area received. Dry until crossing over to the north face (we used the wormhole to the right under the rap route), then a couple inches on the crux pitch, which made it very spicy. Lightly snowed on us while climbing the pitch too. A couple warm days would likely melt it out, but for now come prepared. 
3 2
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2021-08-16, By: Will_E
Info: Webbing and quicklink at the top are in good shape. I didn't use the two lower rap stations, didn't pay attention to condition, light rain started after summit rap so I hightailed it outta there. 
Route: alternate starts
Posted On: 2021-08-10, By: Wentzl
Info: So the start of the technical climbing on Dallas has several variations. Yesterday I tried a third start and my condition update is just to share my observations and compare the three. The southernmost, and the one you come to first, is to climb up under the chockstone and pull through a small hole. There is still a small amount of ice in there as of yesterday, but while wet, was climbable. I consider this the middle of the three in terms of difficulty. Going north, next up is the "standard" start. There is a bulge to pull over and usually some webbing at the top. This seemed to me the most difficult of the three. There was some blue webbing for a belay station above the bulge yesterday. If you miss the bulge, you come to the north face and can just start out on this airy wall. While by far the most exposed, I also thought this was the easiest of the three starts. The climbing on this start is similar to the final moves to the summit. While Roach says these starts are 4th class and the crux 5.3, it seemed to me that with the exception of the North Face start, the other two were more difficult than the finish. 
Route: Standard North Face
Posted On: 2021-08-08, By: Anima
Info: The standard (5.3) route is in good shape. The entire route is dry lest the ledges on the north face, but it did not interfere with the climbing. All of the 5th class is totally dry... and easier than expected. Roach's description is absolutely awful and does not accurately describe the climb. Use trip reports on this site instead. The Summit rappel anchor has both webbing and steel cable (almost identical to the one that was put into the hour glass anchor on Little Bear) and all other anchors on the mountain are in very good shape and appear to be from this season. Beautiful peak. a 60-meter rope is ideal for the rappels. 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-07-12, By: davisschenk
Info: Route is snow free except for area directly under the rappel. 
Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: angry
Info: Route is dry until you exit the cave portion of the chockstone. From that point, unavoidable snow to belay ledge and crux pitch to summit. 
Route: Bootleg gully up, standard (Roach) down
Posted On: 2020-08-07, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Some snow under the summit pitch's chockstone, dry otherwise. Alternate route up a gully to climber's right of standard had some fun, solid Class 3/4 scrambling. Be mindful of start times even on bluebird days, as the cairns and trail segments below the cliff bands on the standard route are, shall we say, challenging to follow in the dark. 
Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: dwoodward13
Info: Summer conditions. Snow patch at the base of the belay station has melted enough and its totally avoidable. Incredible mountain. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-07-07, By: thebeave7
Info: Climbed from Mill Creek TH. Trail in great shape to the upper basin then just followed the steep grass to the cliff bands. Above the first set of cliff bands the climbers trail is easy to follow and snow free. When you reach the upper head wall climb the gulley to the right of the chockstones, a few class 4 moves but nothing bad at all. For the final pitch there's one very rotten section of snow to cross. It was the crux of our day, axe was nice for the leader, no need for crampons. You can set an anchor at the base between a pinch in two rocks. My friend placed two tricams for the first few moves off the snow (wet feet and 5.3), then the rest of the summit pitch was clear and fun class 4. Anchor on top had two newish pieces of webbing backed up by a 2 older pieces, all in good shape other than UV damage. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-07-05, By: dwoodward13
Info: Route finding was pretty straightforward to the base of class 4 pitch. Not sure if we chose the right spot to ascend here because it felt more like class 5, but had a nice anchor at the top to belay people up. One patch of rotten snow to cross to get to the belay position for the last pitch. Recommend ice ax for this. We bailed here due to weather. Another party reported the summit anchor was in good condition. 
Route: South Slopes Traverse
Posted On: 2020-02-03, By: Kiefer
Info: Snow is stable below treeline on all aspects. Depth averaging 3'-5'. Treeline snow conditions is powder. No faceting observed but fresh and granular snow is present at depths down to 6'. Easy penetration of snowpack fist to 3-4 fingers. East, South and West facing aspects are likewise holding deep powder up to 6'. All granular grains with no instability. No hoar or frozen layers observed. Some crust at higher elevations but no more than an inch or two. Strangely stable. Tons of snow down here!! 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-09-25, By: Bigperm
Info: 1. Do not take the standard Roche route up from the High line Trail. He describes ascending through the gullies to the traverse under the cliffs. The route goes up a class3 black gully on the left which becomes grey at its top. This route sucks really bad! There's a variation that's developed over the years to climbers right that ascends a high point between gullies. The trail is a little tough to spot from the High line Trail but if you head to the right side of a low wide grey v shaped gully it should become clearer higher up. The trail is cairned higher up to help you through some improbable terrain at class2+, at worst. There's a great beta picture available from another resource (SP, username Kiefer). Find it and use it for ascent and descent. Use the yellow route in that picture. 2. The summit pitch is not far down from the pedestal to the right. Maybe 50ish feet down around. Picture attached. Crux is the first 20ft then another near the top. Rap slings and rings were good. 3. We used a 60m and were happy we did. The rap through the hole could leave you short with a 50m. Moreover, the intermediate rap above the hole appears to be around a rock that doesn't look large enough and we thought should probably not be trusted. There's another anchor at the top of the class4 bit that gets you to the summit pitch that is good which is a single sling with rings. 4. The anchor above the "green-ish" class 4 climb that gets you up to the summit towers is good. Two new slings with rings. Finding it was easy as we approached it from above. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-08-26, By: HikerGuy
Info: Snow free, summer conditions. Rap anchors in good shape, but always inspect before rapping. 
5 2

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