Niagara Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Northeast Face
Posted On: 2022-05-31, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Made it up Grouse-Burns Gulch 4WD road to about 11,200' before hitting the first impassable snow drift. About 5 more after that. Clear morning. The sky hazed up later that morning into a weird hazy reddish color. Then windy and cloudy on the descent. No snowshoes, very firm and consolidated snow. Dave Cooper's Northeast Face took a minute for me to figure out. Specifically which gully he was referring to. As he mentions you can't see this from the road. But once you are in the upper basin as you approach the Jones / Niagara saddle it's apparent. But it doesn't look like much, which was a little confusing for me. As you see all of Niagara's more impressive gullies this one is small and tame. Though, I did not encounter any, there is evidence of rock fall in the gully. Once out of the gully it dog leg's right which parallels it's East Ridge route. Used crampons and ice axe. Snow was sun cupped. Most extreme sun cupping I've seen. Beautiful formations. Beautiful views of the San Juans with RGP and Chicago Basin next door calling your name. With all the talk on ice axes I thought I'd get and post my first ice axe selfie taken just a few feet below the summit. 
Route: East Ridge from Burns Gulch
Posted On: 2020-08-30, By: supranihilest
Info: Easy road up high into Burns Gulch. Not much of a trail through the upper basin, but once you get close to the Jones/Niagara saddle a use trail up through the mild cliff bands becomes apparent. This was about the only Class 2+ on the entire route. From the saddle take the use trail up Niagara. The trail splits at some points but there shouldn't be anything harder than Class 2. 
Route: E ridge, from Snare Stairs approach
Posted On: 2020-06-27, By: d_baker
Info: I drove to Cuba Gulch TH on Friday afternoon and slept there that night. Road is in decent shape. I started at 6:30am, summit by 10:30a. Back to car by 1:30p. Snare Stairs bone dry, other than streams in a couple spots. Road around 12,910 (seen on a topo) mostly dry, with a couple snow strips that can be walked by. Basin below Niagara mostly melted out. I crossed a couple of low angle snow slopes on road to upper lake below Niagara/Jones saddle. Going to that saddle, I crossed a couple more steeper snow sections but I was comfortable with just my poles and boots. Had axe, but didn't want it. Snow was soft enough to walk on, with soft kick to feel secure. Ridge to summit in good shape, with one strip of snow near top but trail goes to the left of it. Easy to follow trail from saddle to summit. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: Alrightmax
Info: East face is still holding quite a bit of snow. You won't be able to summit without crossing at least one field beneath the summit. Bring an ice axe. 
Route: Burns Gulch approach
Posted On: 2019-09-28, By: Tweedie
Info: No access to the Burns Gulch road due to avalanche debris at the turn off. There are also still some trees over the road. So the hike was longer than expected. There is a Small patch of snow just below the Jones-Niagara saddle that is easily avoidable, but loose talus in both sides. Rest of the route was dry. It was a great hike and some great views. 
Route: from Jones
Posted On: 2019-09-03, By: 9patrickmurphy
Info: Great trail from Jones. Steep trail gaining Niagara, but nothing too crazy. Great little addition. 
Route: Snare Gulch
Posted On: 2019-08-21, By: dwoodward13
Info: See Jones report for ascent/descent conditions of Snare Gulch. From Jones, the route is dry and a use trail is in. It is pretty lose in spots, but works. I used microspikes in certain portions on the way down for extra stability on the loose dirt. 
Route: From Jones/American
Posted On: 2019-07-21, By: HikerGuy
Info: Route dry from Jones to Niagara. See conditions report for American Peak for American Basin approach conditions. 
Route: Jones, American Pk
Posted On: 2018-10-30, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Climbed Niagara, Jones, and American Pk. Expect postholing conditions in basins, once on the connecting ridges the hard part is over. Expect a full day's effort. Beautiful views. Probably one of the few accessible peaks left in the San Juans as winter is settling in. Uncompaghre and Wetterhorn southern slopes were pretty dry but probably will be changing in the next couple days during the Halloween weekend. 
Route: From Jones
Posted On: 2018-03-30, By: bmcqueen
Info: See my CR from American today for details. 
Route: Burns Gulch
Posted On: 2016-10-31, By: dixonallred
Info: Route was clear and dry to about 13,000 ft. with snow to the saddle. Snow was mostly 6" or less with a few drifts to 12". Additional snow above saddle from about 13,300 to 13,400, again 4" or less. Snow is hard packed in some areas and traction was nice to have but not an absolute requirement. Above this the remaining route to summit clear and dry. 
Route: NE Face
Posted On: 2016-05-16, By: metalmountain
Info: Lots of snow, and pretty soft for the majority of the route. The snow in the basin was pretty supportive, but I would highly recommend flotation. The face itself was already soft when we hit it at around 7:30 and made for slow going all the way to the summit. Road is clear to the turn off for Burns Gulch, the Burns Gulch road itself is still quite snowed in. 
Route: N/NE
Posted On: 2014-10-26, By: Monster5
Info: Via Burns Gulch. Road dry to just above treeline. N aspects: unconsolidated powder up to a few ft. Some small base level avies. Quite a bit of postholing under the face. Scoped out a couple nice lines on the N face and the ridge/pt to the W. Needs more time. NE ridge: deep powder to 3 ft up to the saddle, ridge is mix of firm snow, optional scramble, or thin powder over talus. Jones Mtn S ridge: firm snow near the ridge and mostly talus. Jones W/SW aspect: thin easy to moderate couloirs in, 600 ft with connectable firm snowfields another few hundred. Nice and firm. Punched up to a couple inches at most. 

Return to the main Peak Conditions page
© 2022®, 14ers Inc.