US Grant Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: V4
Posted On: 2022-07-10, By: angry
Info: From V4, there's a trail that leads to the crux and then a short scramble up to the ledge and back around to summit ridge. Didn't do any research on this route beforehand and it was easy to figure out. 
3 3
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2021-09-09, By: supranihilest
Info: This CR starts from Pilot Knob. Descend Pilot Knob and round around the north side of the peak. Descend a horrible, awful, garbage slope of thin scree atop steep hardpan into Ice Lakes Basin, then find the trail to Island Lake. Take the trail past Island Lake and up talus and tundra to a steep scree slope below the US Grant/"V 4" saddle. From this saddle ascend a use trail up US Grant's south ridge. The trail is actually pretty easy despite being steep scree. A few hundred feet up the trail wraps to climber's right over a rib - remember this spot and go back over the rib on descent, since a secondary trail splits off here and descends into what looks like a death gully with a cliff at the bottom. The trail eventually ends at a pair of twin red/white towers. Pass between the towers, you're at the infamous Class 4 wall now. There's a gray streak on the bottom left side of the wall and this is where the easiest climbing is. I felt it was overblown and that it actually felt more like Class 3 on the way up. The rock is solid and the hardest moves are right at the bottom. Exposure is minimal. Atop the wall is an obvious ledge system. Take it to the right, it's mostly easy except one awkward, bulging move with exposure. Eventually it will wrap around to the east face and you'll see an obvious purple/gray gully covered in green lichen with a trail leading to it. Climb up this gully (Class 2+/Class 3) being mindful of the loose rock everywhere. Atop the gully it's a Class 2 stroll to the summit. Reverse your route back to the saddle with "V 4". The crux headwall is more difficult going down. Like Pilot Knob this is an outstanding scramble in an incredible area. 
10 2
Route: From Island Lake
Posted On: 2020-10-14, By: Bombay2Boulder
Info: Route is snow free. The San Juans (Telluride/Silverton) area did not get any snow from the last storm that hit the other ranges. Go all the way to the saddle and then follow the ridge to the peak. No summit register on this one. 
Route: S Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-16, By: tjf242424
Info: Snow free and dry. We followed tundra as much as possible to the saddle between US Grant and V4. Straightforward routefinding and an easy crux. Photo shows the view towards Vermilion, which appears to still be quite snowy. 
1
Route: Island Lake to Grant-V2 Saddle
Posted On: 2020-09-09, By: fuzzysisneros
Info: Completely dry and beautiful weather. The trail up to Island Lake is well-trafficked and the trail to the saddle between US Grant and V2 is also well-traveled. From there, it is a fairly obvious route to the top. I think you can keep it Class 3 if you follow the cairns and route-find carefully. I made some (arguably) Class 4 moves but I was going straight to the summit. 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-29, By: Flyingfish
Info: Ice Lakes area is essentially all snow free. Route is loose per usual but dry 
Route: South Mineral
Posted On: 2019-10-26, By: WildWanderer
Info: No snow in the areas that mattered. There's some snow on the trail below treeline and exciting scree and choss in the gullies making microspikes helpful but not mandatory to summit. 
9
Route: From V4/US Grant Saddle
Posted On: 2019-08-19, By: Shattuck311
Info: Summer conditions. Only snow crossing was right next to Island Lake. 
Route: From island lake
Posted On: 2019-08-05, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: No snow equipment needed, take the first trail instead of the second to avoid water crossings, hike around the right side of the lake instead of the left to avoid snow. Some snow in upper basin but it can be walked around, or on without traction/microspikes, it is only 15 or 20 degrees so not very steep. The "crux" is only like 10 feet tall so carrying a rope is probably overkill. 
3
Route: west ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-31, By: rachel
Info: Camped at Ice Lakes. Crossed the creek at 0600 and headed toward Island Lake. Bring sandals or Crocs for the crossing. Snow on the route to the V4/ US Grant saddle. Stashed crampons and ice axes at the saddle. Ascended the ridge (all dry). Used a rope for the summit block/ ledge section. 
4 1
Route: Ice Lakes Trail
Posted On: 2017-08-05, By: JasonKline
Info: Summer conditions, no snow. 
Route: std
Posted On: 2014-09-19, By: Monster5
Info: Clear Lake switchback to Island Lake: somewhat wet spots but mostly dry and easy to follow. The trail junction up to Island is un-cairned but very obvious at the flat open spot where Vermil/Golden Horn come into view. No snow anywhere. V4 SE ridge (class 3) > US Grant (brief class 4, got cliffed out coming off V4 and had to drop right/S on annoying stuff. The standard summit move was only 4th class and the required stuff was super short) > V2 (mostly class 2 with a move or two of third and another 5 ft section of 4th near the saddle, bypass techy stuff r/S) > S Lookout (grassy slopes/ledges on E side of technical ridge then up grass to summit block. I didn't study the route and added it as a whim - quite surprised with the quality spice and fun route-finding. Curl around summit block to the right/E until you can climb up 3/4 choss to the summit. Unfortunately, I bypassed an unranked 13er unknowingly.) Clear Lake road: This is rough 2wd at the moment. Subaru types can make it all the way up and reasonable passenger cars might get stopped at a switchback above treeline. 9mi/5500ft. 6 hrs. 

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