Coxcomb Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2022-07-18, By: JDroz
Info: SW Chimney is dry. Slings abound, but none were used. Only runners and rock shoes. In my honest opinion, the "4th class" step into the alcove, and subsequently bottom of the chimney, is closer to low-5th. Half the eligible holds pull and fat blocks wait to rip from the wall if hung onto a little too long. The other peaks in the North Centrals were dry as well. P.S. if you left your cartridge pen at the top of the chimney and want it back, PM me. Otherwise, it's joining my paraphernalia collection. 
2 7
Route: Southwest Chimney
Posted On: 2021-08-24, By: RyGuy
Info: No snow or ice from the storm on 08/20/2021 left. The summit rap station is in good shape thanks to yaktoleft13's recent red webbing. A pair of 60M ropes are just perfect for getting down with room to spare. The summit needs a new register. We never found one, and then later I found part of an older register's shattered remains below the rappel landing zone. The terrain at the landing zone is a loose typical San Juan choss pile, but overall it is the far better option for the descent compared to the SW chimney system. It also makes Redcliff an easy no brainer add-on. There are 3 rap stations we noticed on the way up. The first is on the right side, just above the first section. It seemed to be in good shape. The second was above the chimney on the climber's right. It's not visible on the way up. It also seemed to be in good shape. There is a third near the base of the freestanding tower above the first section. (See supranihilest's TR for more detail) but I did not get close enough to get a sense of what shape it is in. Then there is the notch rap station. A bit awkward to get setup on, but not bad. That station also seems in good shape. Great peak overall. Best TR's to read if you are preparing to climb this peak: supranihilest's and yaktoleft13's. 
Route: Standard from West Fork Cimarron
Posted On: 2021-07-20, By: datum313
Info: Chimney is dry. There's existing webbing/rappel rings in good condition, other than one frayed and sun-faded strand. We rappelled 2 chimney pitches with a 60m rope. My rope got caught behind the chockstone on the first pitch and I had to climb back up about 30 feet to dislodge it. 
Route: Standard from West Fork Cimmaron
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: tjf242424
Info: A few small patches of snow in the chimney, but easily avoided. For the approach, I definitely recommend dropping down to about 12,100 ft in Wetterhorn Basin after crossing the pass. There are wooden posts that mark a crossover to the trail that climbs back to the other pass east of Coxcomb. Use that trail to regain height until obvious grassy slopes lead to the S ridge of Coxcomb. Two 60m ropes for the rappel to Coxcomb-Redcliff saddle and it's cruiser from there. 
Route: Southwest Chimney
Posted On: 2020-08-09, By: supranihilest
Info: Great trail over West Fork Pass and into Wetterhorn Basin. Crappy off-trail ascent to the base of the climbing on grass and lots of loose junk. There are three climbing pitches from here. In order: Pitch 1 (often called Class 4): we all thought this was the hardest pitch. It was about 15-20 feet of low Class 5 up a weird detached flake/chimney thing. The hands were OK but the feet were bad and the chimney full of loose junk. This part was also slightly overhanging. There were other options left and right. Above this was a ton of Class 3 with loose rock to the belay below the second pitch chimney. I placed a #.75 cam and one nut on this 35 meter pitch. Was able to find three good enough placements for an anchor. Pitch 2: The "crux" pitch. Usually rated 5.3, but felt like Class 4. Far easier than the first pitch. Solid rock and solid body positioning in a nice, wide chimney. Placed a #2 cam and that's it. Would have felt more comfortable soloing this pitch than the first. Used the rappel station and two nuts for an anchor. There's then a short Class 3 scramble to a 20 foot notch, this notch is pitch three. Rappel into the notch and scramble out the other side at Class 3. Scamper to the summit, then back into the notch. Pitch 3: we left the rope in the rap station and I top roped up and then belayed from the top. Awkward and slightly overhanging. Felt about 5.6. Questionable rock. Besides the rappel into the notch there are two rappels to get back to hiking territory: Rappel 1: Go back to the top of the second pitch and rappel down to the top of the Class 3 section. We then scrambled down 20-30 feet and then over into a kind of cleft, then up the cleft and over to the rappel station underneath a detached spire. This rappel station is a bit awkward to get to but does not require a belay. Rappel 2: rappel to the ground from the rappel station below the detached spire. I led the first two pitches in trail runners. Rack consisted of a set of nuts, .75, 1, and 2 cams, most of which got used at one point or another, and a few alpine draws. One 60m half rope was used (it took forever to do anything with our team of four). Rappel stations were all in good shape but carry webbing with you just in case. 
Route: Std from Middle Fork
Posted On: 2020-07-31, By: SnowAlien
Info: Fun scramble with mostly solid rock. Just a quick note on the webbing, it's quickly becoming tat. It was mostly still ok, but decaying fast from exposure to direct sunlight and rain. Ends of one cordellete was apparently chewed up by some animal. Just heads up as I don't think this may safely hold past another month, so bring a spare cord, particularly for the notch anchor. You can get away with much shorter cord for the chimney rappel if you use the lower anchor. Register could use more paper. 
Route: West Fork Cimarron
Posted On: 2020-07-06, By: angry
Info: Summer conditions. Well defined trail to turn off below the pass. Snow patch around ~12,100 less than 50ft and easy to kick steps. We descended ~400 ft into Wetterhorn Basin. Ascended chimney which was cruiser. Crux for me was the initial entry at the base of the cliff. I carried a 60m rope and my partner his 70m. We tied them together to rap the north side. 
6 4
Route: Standard Route Southside
Posted On: 2020-06-25, By: desertdog
Info: We approached using the west fork trail near Ridgway. The upper part of the basin had some snow fields. I used spikes, but only because my approach shoes don't work well on hard snow. You could get by without traction or maybe avoid the snow all together. No snow on the route. We climbed the chimney system on Coxscomb's south side and rapped down the face on its north side, then walked up Redcliff for a double header. 
5 10
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2018-09-12, By: illusion7il
Info: All rap stations were good. There is even a rap station for the 1st 4th class section on climbers left. I added a new piece of webbing to the notch anchor. No summit register for Redcliff. It actually looked like someone got mad at the summit carin and kicked it over. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2017-07-26, By: Stratosfearsome
Info: Trivial snow on the approach from West Fork Rd. (Wetterhorn basin TH) no need for axe or spikes to reach technical sections. Some wet and loose rock up the standard South Facing gully to summit ridge but avoidable. 5.2 chimney has a little snow in the back but avoidable, as well. Ridge cleft has webbing for rap but brought my own. 30m rope was sufficient there. 60m would have been nice for descending the rest of the peak. A bit of snow on the North flanks of Coxcomb, below the summit block, if you're trying to traverse high to Red Cliff. (I didn't do it because I had no axe / traction) Good luck! Tough peak but really fun. Rob 
Route: SW Chimney from Middle Fork
Posted On: 2017-07-06, By: Nathan Hoobler
Info: We climbed El Punto on Sunday and Coxcomb on Monday. The road to Middle Fork is snow free and wide open. The approach to Middle Fork basin is wide open and snow free. There was a lot of snow in the upper basin and around the passes. We were thankful for ice axes (and crampons!) crossing a large, steep snow bank approaching the pass to climb El Punto. On Coxcomb, we were able to avoid most of the snow fields by taking alternate routes to Coxcomb Pass. No snow on the technical sections. Tiny bit of ice in the very back of the right chimney, but easily avoidable. There was new webbing at all the rap spots, but we backed up with some of our own. Terrific peak! 
Route: Std from West Fork TH
Posted On: 2014-07-17, By: SnowAlien
Info: 2wd road is in good shape, but there is a challenging river crossing in 4wd section. Saw several fairly burly 4x4 parked before that, but it's not a long walk/swim from the upper TH. Accessed Coxcomb from the saddle with Redcliff. There is some snow at the bottom of the climb to get to C3-4 terrain. Some running water past that and in the left chimney (the right one also had snow/ice). The upper terrain is dry. Webbing/rappel rings are in good shape. Used 2 x 30m ropes for the rappel. Rappelled most of the route as it was too wet (weather) to downclimb it safely. Route on Redcliff is completely dry. 
Route: Std from Middle Fork
Posted On: 2013-09-09, By: Monster5
Info: Coxcomb, El Punto, Heisshorn, Redcliff, and surrounding UNs are presently free of snow/ice. The Middle Fork road is rough 2wd (well graded and smooth with the exception of 3-4 brief washouts). Hunters and big trucks galore. Coxcomb - webbing is currently in good condition. The ~5.3 notch is about 25 ft and a 30 m rope is more than sufficient for TRing it on the return. 2 x 30 m ropes were plenty adequate for rappelling (~65 ft) the 4th-5.0 chimneys descender‘s left. While the chimneys are only stiff 4th and arguable 5.easy, those not familiar with stemming techniques might find it awkward. Heisshorn, El Punto, and 13222(?) in Porphyry - chossy, but only c3 with careful route/hold consideration. Other UNs - class 2. Grassy ramps up all of them. Also plenty of scree and talus if that‘s your preference. Might do a report later. 

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