Route: Northeast Squeeze Chimney
Posted On: 2021-07-31, By: supranihilest
Info: From Point 13,300 E's summit I returned to the basin via 13,300 E's west ridge. I traversed under Lookout Peak's north face and into a scree and talus valley below it and "T 12". I climbed north up super loose purple scree and scrambled up loose talus to below "T 12"'s approximately northeast face. The summit block is big and intimidating; I'll describe potentially four routes up the peak. 1) On the south face is a vertical, rotting chimney. It would be at least Class 4 and very loose. I didn't spend much time checking it out and took no photos since it looked awful. 2) On the north face is a lower angle but extremely rotten chimney above a steep, very loose, highly exposed slope. I got a few moves up the right side of the chimney, ripping rocks off as I went, before I backed down because the chimney's feet were all wet mud. Microspikes would probably help if you go up this. 3) On the northeast face is a set of Class 3 steps. This was the first route I checked out because it seemed the most obvious, just scramble up the steps. That is, until one step (half gray, half black in the photo) stopped me part way up. This block is slightly overhanging, about head height, very exposed, super rotten (I was able to easily rip big chunks off by hand), wet, and covered in loose rock. I would have had to belly flop onto it and couldn't find any holds worth trusting to get up to that position anyway, so I bailed on that option. 4) Finally, just a bit left around the corner from option 3, is a big, sharp, red squeeze chimney. This seemed pretty improbable but I was surprised to find it the best option. It's only a few moves of Class 4 or Class 5.easy, pretty exposed, and the rock is solid enough to inspire confidence. Hand holds on this thing were super positive and seemed very trustworthy. It was narrow enough I couldn't fit in it with my pack so I dropped my pack at the bottom, scrambled through, and hiked up wildly exposed Class 2 covered in loose rock to the summit. I butt scooted some on the way down and scrambled back down the chimney. Whew! Once back at my pack I returned to the valley below Lookout and scree skied down the purple scree before heading to Bridal Peak.