"V 3"  
Condition Updates  
Route: East Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-14, By: supranihilest
Info: Continuous snow to within 20 feet of the summit. Ophir Pass Road is gated 0.3 miles from the trailhead. Follow the road and take the right split into Swamp Canyon and then climb southeast up a broad couloir to a flatter area. Climb the waterfall-topped ledges and cliffs southeast to the middle basin (below US Grant Peak's north face). Follow another broad couloir toward the upper basin but not to the ridge. Below the large summit block go slightly left to reach the top of a knob. This is the upper couloir and leads to the 20-foot Class 2+ summit block. The "standard" northwest ridge described in trip reports is already dry on the upper couple hundred feet so if snow climbing is in your quiver this is a far better and safer route. Snow was supportive all day and highly suncupped which made for easy steps most of the way up. Maximum angle was probably 45-50 degrees. Gear: ice axe and crampons mandatory, flotation not mandatory with a good freeze and early start (4am for us). 
Route: Swamp canyon
Posted On: 2021-08-20, By: tdawg012
Info: I followed Furthermore's route. The last 500 feet to summit was covered in bullet proof snow and ice underneath. Not fun. Many nearby peaks got the same treatment on that aspect (NW). Fortunately, I found a different way down the saddle between V3 and US Grant. It should melt out in a few days I think... 
Route: UN 12,348 shelf, west face down
Posted On: 2021-07-16, By: Bombay2Boulder
Info: Took the hardrock route up to the saddle with the 12er UN 12,348. After that took the "standard gully" route. This was very loose, the class 4 rock was very sketchy for my comfort so I stuck to the gully and went all the way up. One important thing to note is that I was monitoring weather for this for the last 3 weeks. I will NOT do this in summer after a long dry spell, that soil will not offer any grip when totally dry. If you have any experience in San Miguels you know what I am talking about. It really helped me that there was a continuous wet spell for the last two weeks, soil was very grippy because of this. Coming down I took the west face, I much preferred going down this than the crap I came up on. This does require some navigation thru the ledges near the waterfall to reconnect back to the hardrock trail. Reminded me of the loft route on Longs. If you have snow travel skills, leave this one for spring, as everyone else has mentioned this will be an amazing continuous climb/ski. 

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