Peak Eighteen  
Condition Updates  
Route: From Windom saddle
Posted On: 2022-06-30, By: daway8
Info: Approach from Needleton to Chicago Basin has some significant wash-out. No deadfall on the trail, just surprisingly deep and wide ruts carved out of the dirt which calls causes a little extra footwork. Just above Twin Lakes are some small snowfields that still need to be crossed but no one seemed to bother with traction. From Windom saddle to Peak Eighteen was dry and the grassy ramps along the SE face that give class 3 access to the summit are full of all sorts of wildflowers. Didn't have time to try the ridge direct from Windom but it definitely looks to be the class 4 or more which some have reported. Amazing views of all of Chicago Basin and the surrounding peaks from here. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-21, By: supranihilest
Info: From Chicago Basin we followed the Twin Lakes trail to the lakes and then continued on the trail in the direction of Windom Peak and Sunlight Peak. The trail is heavily cairned and very easy to follow. When we were below the obvious saddle northeast of Peak Eighteen we went straight up awful, loose scree and talus to said saddle, avoiding a couple of small snowfields en route. There are multiple options to reach the saddle and going directly to it seems best - it's looser than other options but other options are harder and more exposed. Once on the saddle the route is generally obvious. Scrambling the ridge direct is Class 4 but the route can be kept to Class 3 by following a left-trending grass ramp to a series of grass and gravel ledges that go at Class 3. Exposure is high but the rock is generally solid and the scrambling highly enjoyable. Due to the gravely nature of the route we butt scooted much of the descent. 

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