Babcock Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: North Couloir from Tomahawk Basin
Posted On: 2022-05-23, By: supranihilest
Info: From the upper reaches of Tomahawk Basin there are several couloirs that go between each of Babcock's three (or four, depending) summits. You want a much higher, western couloir (just west of the huge, middle summit). Climb this to a dry saddle on good, moderate snow between middle and west summits. Descend about 200 feet south on steeper snow. We passed a couple of obviously very difficult gullies, and a narrow one that looked to be about Class 4 to get up into. Ours was wider, snowier, and had a huge, lichen-covered sheer wall on it. This wall makes for an obvious, colorful landmark. I do not know if this gully goes without snow, so buyer beware! We climbed up this gully (Class 3, Steep Snow) to a flat spot where we left crampons and axes, then launched up the sustained Class 3/Class 3+ scramble to the summit. Exposure is pretty high and also sustained. Lots of route finding involved. Many potential options, too many to describe, but two things to keep in mind: 1) the ridge proper higher up is a lot more difficult and super exposed, and 2) don't drop too far down before reaching your ascent gully, staying higher/middle of the road elevation wise seems best. Rock is generally solid but plenty of loose stuff, test every hold. We had a bit of powder snow and much water and mud to contend with. Microspikes were used on the descent to our gear to combat the copious mud. Switched back to crampons and climbed back up the couloir and down into Tomahawk Basin. Many options for descending the basin, choose whatever suits you. Gear: ice axe and crampons mandatory for the steep, icy, suncupped couloir (whether coming from Tomahawk Basin or Boren Creek). Microspikes were useful descending the upper scramble but by no means necessary, just use extra care. Helmet strongly recommended, there's tons of loose rock in the La Plata. 
11 3
Route: Boren Creek
Posted On: 2021-08-18, By: tdawg012
Info: I found Chicagotransplant's report to be most helpful. I did a class 4 route from the saddle between east/central summits to the top and found the class 2+ route on the descent back to saddle. No snow in the couloir north into tomahawk basin so I took that hoping to get to Diorite peak but got stormed out halfway 
Route: Tomahawk Basin
Posted On: 2016-07-07, By: mattpayne11
Info: Road up to Tomahawk clear all the way. Quite bumpy but we did it in a stock Tacoma. Route has nice snow all the way up to the east ridge. Dicey climb but fun! 
Route: Boren Creek/South Slopes
Posted On: 2014-09-05, By: TravelingMatt
Info: A large boulder blocks the Boren Creek Road just past the creek crossing. ATVs, but not road vehicles, can get through. Highest parking and turnaround area below the boulder is about 1/4 mile in from CR 124, where there are open areas on each side of the road that can fit two vehicles. I summited via the gully marked "YES" in the picture. Not sure which gully Dave Cooper recommends in his book, but I went most of the way up both gullies marked "Maybe" and couldn't find a good way from either to the summit. From the "YES" gully I stayed left where it forks, then went almost all the way to the top before turning back around to the left (west) to begin Class 3 climbing towards the summit. Rock is decently stable once leaving the gully. All the gullies are crap. God I hated this mountain. 

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