"V 5"  
Condition Updates  
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-24, By: desertdog
Info: There was a good freeze last night so we decided to give V5 a go. We drove a couple miles up Ophir Pass The snow on the approach was firm and supportive. We did not use snow shoes. The couloir we took up was getting thin and there were some short sections of rock. The snow was in excellent shape though. The ridge is dry. Of course, crampons and an axe are needed. We had brought a rope just in case, so we decided to do some exploring and went east across the ridge and took another couloir down. We did a short rap into the descent couloir and climbed down. The snow held up on our walk out 
Route: Grandma Bettys/North Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-07, By: supranihilest
Info: The Silverton side of Ophir Pass Road is open to at least the first switchback. I dropped down to Middle Fork Mineral Creek and hiked up good snow in the creek bed to Paradise Basin, then to below "V 5"'s north face, taking the obvious couloir just right of the summit block. Snow was mostly firm and icy. Approximately 40-50 degree range the whole way up. At the top I climbed over a 3' vertical cornice, then swung around the south face on gross, sometimes punchy (to the waist), rather icy snow. About 200' of loss and a quarter mile from the top of the couloir are a couple of gullies half full of junky snow, half full of junky rock. I took the left gully, Class 2+ poor rock/scree/dirt and sketchy snow with some solid ice thrown in. Summit ridge was the easiest part of the climb. Descended the way I came up. Don't get enticed by the trail visible across Paradise Basin, thinking it'll take you to the road. It's longer, steeper, and snowier than just taking the creek back (assuming the creek has good snow still), trust me. Gear: ice axe and crampons mandatory. Some may want a second axe. Flotation wasn't useful today but probably still good to carry, the snow goes from firm and supportive to waist-deep postholing real quick. 
13 4
Route: SW Slopes/SE Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-19, By: TravelingMatt
Info: The Clear Lake road can be driven all the way to the lake by midrange SUVs. Toy SUVs (Outback, Rav4 etc) may have trouble at a switchback around 11,700' but it is easy to walk from there. The old jeep road that goes up the SW slopes starts about 1/4 mile before Clear Lake, and is hard to identify as rockslides have obscured part of it (first pic). However, you can go all the way to the lake, double back and eventually reach it. As piper's report states, the ridge from 12988 does not go; instead leave the old jeep road directly below a prominent gully southeast of the summit (second pic) and ascend towards it; grassy slopes slightly east have the best footing. This gully is full of rubble but the rock underneath is decent. It goes moderate Class 3 with some exposure. Once you have climbed some 30' in the gully look for a narrow chute to the left and continue up that to the ridge. Ridge is a walkup above the gully. Wonderful views of all the Ice Lake peaks. 
Route: Clear Lake
Posted On: 2019-07-15, By: piper14er
Info: Highway 550 north of Silverton to County Road 7 (aka 585), 4 miles to County Road 12 (aka 815) then up towards Clear Lake. Snow on the road at about 11,200 which is just before the last three short switchbacks before the last straight section up to the lake. Easy 4WD road to where I parked, gets a little more bumpy from there to the lake but probably okay for two wheel drive vehicles. Right now snow and rockfall at the switchbacks. I was parked pretty much directly below the peak, 0.52 miles away and about 2000 vertical feet. I followed the road to the lake and then followed an old Jeep track to below the peak. I went a little too far before heading up the steep slopes to the ridge just past the peak. Looking back at the peak there is a notch that makes it more difficult than necessary. It can be traversed back to the gully you want with a steep sideslope traverse over rock and some grass. Class 3. A bit more than I wanted with only one good arm/hand (rotator cuff recovery not over). You should go up the rock slope, then gully instead. I have a pic of that and it goes up to a "V" in the rock of course. Once at the top of the gully it is an easy walk along the ridge to the peak. Views everywhere. Pics to show other peaks and snow, like US Grant, S Lookout, etc. 

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