Lizard Head  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Chimney
Posted On: 2021-08-23, By: slawrence2011
Info: Great conditions! I was surprised that the Southwest Chimney (standard route) was in the shade in the morning even around 10 when we got there, because I understood it to be a S facing wall, rather than SW. Made it a little chilly to start in heavy wind. I took the left variation on P1 which protected well with a 5 (probably optional) and single rack. Loose rock was not nearly as bad as I had feared with everything I read, but still check every hold! Mountain project says to bring double ropes for the rappel from the notch, but we were able to rappel all the way from the notch and skip the intermediate rappel with one 70. If you used the intermediate rappel, a 60 would probably be fine. The most frightening part was the P2 (death scree) pitch, very minimal protection available there! 
1 3
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2021-06-13, By: angry
Info: A couple snow patches remain on approach. Climbing portion is completely dry. On third pitch, went left above bulge rather than stay in chimney topping out right below summit register which required building an anchor. Rap'd using the existing anchors which are still in good condition. 
4 2
Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2021-05-31, By: lkk8815
Info: Trail is a healthy variety of dry, wet, muddy, and packed snow, but clear enough that you don't need snowshoes. The climb is completely dry. Loose as advertised, and the gear for the first half of the first pitch is sketchy, but otherwise I thought it was a really fun climb! To get off, rapped from top anchors, scrambled down the middle scree pitch, then rapped the first pitch all the way to the ground with a 70m. Wouldn't bring two ropes to rappel, seems too risky that the rope will get stuck and the “death scree” really isn't that bad if you're careful. 
6 2
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2020-10-08, By: desertdog
Info: Route completely dry. Loose, but not as loose as I was expecting. With the weather coming in next week, the next couple days may be the last chance for a dry climb. 
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2020-09-28, By: jscully205
Info: Still summer conditions. Approached from Cross Mtn TH. Climb itself is dry and mostly clean but there is a loose hold about 40 ft up the first pitch the left side to be cautious about. All anchors in good shape. Would recommend unroping on scree pitch to avoid raining said scree off the side. It's also run-out too. 
Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2020-07-31, By: SnowAlien
Info: Pretty dry, but very loose. Couldn't help but knocked a few rocks down leading P1. Hide your belayer! Pro is there, but first half of P1 you may have to postpone a placement until you see something than might actually hold a fall (but don't fall in any case). It gets better near the top of P1 and 3rd pitch, while shorter, is more fun. Double rack was plenty. Register needs more paper. 
7 2
Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2017-03-04, By: Monster5
Info: Good bootpack for a couple miles. After, 0.5-1.5 ft of breaking to the Lizard/cross saddle. Windblown with some icy spots up to the base of the route. Sustained 10-20 MPH wind. The new layer of 12+ inches isn't consolidated yet and there is a reactive few inch crust. The layer below is spring like. First pitch mostly dry with some snow in the chimney. Traverse pitch has good consolidated snow and some rock. Summit pitch is pretty snowy but the crux move is relatively drive. Used crampons/tools and rock pro. Anchors in good condition. 
Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2015-03-29, By: sstratta
Info: Route is 95% snow-free. Mostly posting this because I figured someone might want to see a Sneffels/Wilson group photo. First photo: Sneffels Second photo: Wilsons, L to R: South Wilson, Mount Wilson, Gladstone, Wilson Peak Third photo: Lizard Head (route not shown) I've got other pictures of the route itself and close-ups of the surrounding peaks with more detail, send me a message if you'd like to see those. 

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