Tijeras Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Northeast face
Posted On: 2022-06-30, By: Wildernessjane
Info: The ramp providing access through the cliff band was very wet and still has some remaining snow. At the top, we were literally getting rained on. We had come over from Pico Aislado and so had not come up this way. We had a very lightweight 30m alpine rope with us and used it as a backup while down-climbing the wet slab on the lower section of the ramp. There was some existing tat that we cleaned up and reinforced. There is also maybe ten feet of snow at the bottom of the ramp that is unavoidable but it was easy enough to kick steps. 
Route: from Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2022-06-03, By: markf
Info: The access gully through the cliff band was doable in micro spikes; the snow up there is going fast. Snow is still there on the trail in to Lower Sand Creek Lake and above the lake, but not enough to matter. There are a massive number of recently downed trees between the Sand Creek crossing and Lower Sand Creek, and again around Lower Sand Creek Lake. In both areas there are enough down trees to hinder travel and route finding. The USFS ranger I spoke to (San Isabel NF) did not expect all the trees to be cleared this year. 
Route: From Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2021-09-18, By: ScottLovesRMNP
Info: There must be 8-10 "cracks" through the cliffs leading to Tijeras' gentle upper slopes, ranging from absolutely vertical, to super steep & exposed, to do-able with care. From below, there are few cairns to help find the correct (two) access points, and trying to climb in the wrong gully could be really bad. I did manage to find one of the correct ones, even though there was no cairn at the base of the gully. I did finally see a cairn when I got to the top of it. I believe I was in the shorter of the two climbable (class 3) gullies, and it does have some exposure at the top -- a "no fall zone" for sure. I took it very carefully going up, and even more slowly coming down. Other than this crux, the rest of the climb is straightforward. 
Route: Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2021-07-28, By: JasonKline
Info: Summer conditions. Route was entirely dry. 
Route: N Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-19, By: davisrice4
Info: Access gullies almost completely dry. 
Route: North Slope from Music Pass
Posted On: 2021-06-19, By: Aphelion
Info: Both access gullies are still mostly/completely filled with snow. Upper portion is dry, traverse to Music is completely dry. 
Route: North Face
Posted On: 2020-09-29, By: tdawg012
Info: Snow patches on upper North Face. I stuck to the class 3 ribs. I didnt take standard access gulley and opted for a spicier gulley lower in the cliff band free of snow 
Route: NW Ridge from Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2020-09-21, By: Tony1
Info: The access gully to get through the cliffy section between the lower and upper bowls is completely filled with snow, ranging from mid-calf deep to mid-thigh deep (average height adult male). It is deeper the closer you get to the western wall where snow fell in from above. The snow was not hard, but not sugar either - a good in-between which made it easy to create a bootpack. My party of 3 had microspikes and helmets, but I forgot my spikes at camp (whoops), so I went first. At least I had gaiters (those helped a ton). Wasn't too bad, was able to pack down to the rock/dirt with almost every step. Near the top, we veered left to finish out the section on dry rock. I imagine the bootpack will stay there until the area receives additional snow. I'd recommend microspikes, helmet, and gaiters right now. Poles couldn't hurt either. I can't speak for how descending this would go, as we went to Music after Tijeras. The mountain was otherwise in summer hiking conditions. 
Route: from Music pass
Posted On: 2020-07-18, By: SnowAlien
Info: The ramps don't have any more snow, but the left one still has some water running down in the middle. We scrambled a bit on the left side. There's rapel webbing, one of the cords looked to be in good shape. Ridge to Music is super fun. 
Route: Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2020-07-06, By: Grover
Info: The remaining snow at the far left ramp can be avoided. No need for spikes, IMO. I placed one foot into the snow, stepped over it, and walked between the snow bank below the favored ramp and the rock wall. Images show the view looking down at the snow from above, climbing down the ramp. The climbing in the ramp does take some moves to get the right hand hold/foot placement. 
Route: Standard Route from Lake
Posted On: 2020-07-02, By: desertdog
Info: Not much snow left in gully as compared to the last CR. See pictures. We did not use traction. Holy mackerel, is the gully loose for the first 20 feet. Be careful. Did Music too. It's dry. 
Route: From Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: Shattuck311
Info: A bit of snow on the shoot to get to the top of the ledges. Probably a good idea to still bring microspikes to be safe on this. 
Route: Std Route from Lower Sand Creek Lake
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: Mtnman200
Info: You'll have to cross some snow to reach the bottom of the ramp, but once on the ramp you can stay on rock all the way up. It took about 25 steps to cross the snow. (See photo) 
Route: NW Face
Posted On: 2020-06-15, By: rivrrapids
Info: Route is clear to ramps. Chose ramp further NW today. Edge of it can be scrambled but it is still filled in enough if you want a little snow climb. I was at base of ramp at 7:30 and it was starting to get soft even once in the gully. I did use crampons and axe just for this part. 
3 2
Route: From Music Pass
Posted On: 2020-05-29, By: WildWanderer
Info: Trail dry until the switchbacks, and then postholing off and on to the lake and up to the basin. I was able to summit without snowshoes, but more than once thought they'd have been worth the weight (I'd left them in my truck and was kicking myself for not taking them, but the snow will most likely all be melted out in a week or so). Gaiters at minimum would be a good idea. I used my ice axe and crampons to go up the ramp. I chose the first one, but both looked in (see last photo, taken from the route down Music). There weren't tracks anywhere past the lake. The snow was soft so I kicked in steps until I made it to rock and switched to scrambling. I climbed up the face and went down the ridge: No snow on route once you're up the ramp. 
Route: NW Ridge
Posted On: 2019-11-09, By: rivrrapids
Info: Ankle-shin deep snow in trees. Above tree line no snow except for in willows. RH gulley to upper slopes has unconsolidated snow in middle making it a bit sketchy as the left corner of the gulley is somewhat down-sloping. LH gulley looled choked with snow at bottom and interspersed highr up. Made it within 0.5 miles of upper Music Pass TH 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-22, By: bergsteigen
Info: Snow on both ramps, will require ax and crampons for a while. TR forthcoming. 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2018-07-03, By: mjlucarelli
Info: Summer conditions to the summit. Any small patches of snow en route are easily avoidable and probably won't hang around much longer. This includes both ramps that get you to the top of the cliff band (pics of the ramps attached). Just an FYI since I didn't see Music Mountain on the list of peaks to add a condition report too, it is also summer conditions. Snow free on both the south ridge and the east ridge routes. 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2018-06-09, By: CarpeDM
Info: The cliff band by-pass ramps still have some snow. I took the short, steeper one (I didn't get high enough to see the other one). SOME snow will remain there for a while, but it's still melting fast. I used an ice axe and microspikes. At this point, I would definitely recommend an axe for the ramp that I took. Spikes or crampons would be okay (the snow portion is pretty darn short). The snow was perfect for kicking steps when I hit it just before 9am. Also went up Music's south ridge; conditions were good; no issues there. That's an awesome scramble! 
Route: Music Pass
Posted On: 2017-10-07, By: jenvalencia
Info: Snow on the music pass route to the boulder field was minimal. Among the boulder field, snow was patchy, 2in in some spots to 2ft in others, with plenty of boulders, willows, and ground patches visible. We didn't go up the ramp as it was already our turn-around time due to incoming thunderstorm. I'm not sure if we would have gone up the ramp or not, had we more time. The snow quality was very wet and sparse. There wasn't enough snow or ice to use crampons, and an axe would have no purchase either. The rocks were very wet, of course. Perhaps the snowshoes would have been needed on the ridge had we got up to that point, but as far as we got, they weren't necessary. 

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