Broken Hand Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: West Slopes
Posted On: 2021-06-17, By: smrcka
Info: Plenty of snow en route to Broken hand Pass. I made it to 12,700 with micro spikes and a hiking pole. Steep snow above 12,700 require an ice axe. Steep snow minus ice axe = no summit for me 
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Route: West Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-24, By: JasonKline
Info: Summer conditions. 
Route: West Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-23, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Summer conditions. 
Route: West Slopes
Posted On: 2020-05-18, By: RobLowe
Info: W/ Crestone Needle from Cottonwood Creek. Dry on the west slopes. If going from S. Colony, lots of snow coverage still. There was a booter up the east. If from Cottonwood Creek, no need for traction or ax for BHP. 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-13, By: subalpine_style
Info: I climbed Broken Hand Peak from Broken Hand Pass on August 10, taking the West Ridge as direct as I could while keeping the climbing class 4+/5.easy. Some great, Crestones conglomerate climbing while gaining the first tower on the ridge from the south side. Then, some more sustained scrambling until reaching an exposed rib with a notch. Climbed up the left side of the rib (awesome exposure, some unexpected but featured slabs!) and then down to the notch where the options were limited. From the notch, I climbed down an angled rock gully leading to the grassy notch before the final ascent, with hardest moves being moving out around a bulge with some decent exposure behind. From there, it was a grind up the slopes (taking rock where possible) to the top. Incredible views all around from this peak. On the way back, I considered dropping to the south of the last tower to avoid having to climb back up the gully, but seeing the amount of elevation I would lose decided it was not worth it. This was a great decision: the gully was much more fun to climb up, even offering a few opportunities to move out to the right for some more exposure and better rock. I remained on the ridge proper for most of the descent, doing a ~80ft downclimb of solid class 4+ conglomerate to descend from the south side of the final tower before the pass. Really fun and quick route to the peak, but know if you're staying on the ridge that you'll encounter that one cruxy downclimb before the summit pitch! 
Route: West Slopes via Broken Hand Pass
Posted On: 2015-07-19, By: CUaaron25
Info: Climbed Broken Hand Peak yesterday via South Colony lakes and would echo previous conditions reports for broken hand pass. There is still a snow field to ascend to access the top of Broken Hand Pass. We had microspikes and ice axes but crampons would have been nice. Outstanding view of the needle and peak from Broken Hand Peak!! 
Route: NE Couloir
Posted On: 2015-04-27, By: samblack
Info: The two NE facing sections of the couloir were great, the middle SE facing section was a bit firm but fun. We were able to ski to the lake. Classic CO line. 
Route: SW slopes
Posted On: 2013-07-01, By: d_baker
Info: To supplement the other conditions reports of the Crestones with some photos... 1: Crux of the Broken Hand pass approach. The top of the snow (in shadows) is the crossover step onto rock with a quick move or two to surmount. 2: The Needle & Peak from the summit of Broken Hand Peak (BHP). 3: Humboldt's southern flanks and west ridge from the summit of BHP. 4: Milwaukee & Pico Aislado from the summit of BHP. The hike of BHP from the pass up the SW slopes was snow free and it's ready for flatlanders. 

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