Peak(s):  North Eolus  -  14,042 feet
Mt. Eolus  -  14,087 feet
Date Posted:  08/16/2012
Date Climbed:   08/03/2012
Author:  Floyd
 NEW ROUTE - Eolus from Ruby or New York Basin   

This isn't meant to be a trip report as much as information for a new route. I figured the 13ers and especially the Centennials are gaining popularity so someone may find this useful. If one wanted to combine Eolus and Pigeon, I highly recommend this route. I actually found it much more aesthetic than the standard and the route's beauty is its simplicity.

Anyway, if you are curious here's how to do it:

Gain the Little Finger - North Eolus saddle (12,800). The route from Ruby can hold snow into summer so be prepared. If you've managed to bushwack up New York Basin, first off, kudos to you, and you should have NO problem with following the route the summit.

From the saddle, gain the ridge and it's an easy class 1 or 2 walk to the north side of North Eolus. I climbed directly up to the ridge and summit which held some very fun/solid Class 4 or low 5 stuff, but you can traverse further to the north (towards a little knob on the end of the ridge extending from N. Eolus) and then swing around to the standard route which probably wouldn't exceed Class 2, but you may need to be ready for a Class 3 move here or there.
Some pictures:

Mount Eolus from the NW

Class 1 portion of Route along the ridge shown

Eolus from the ridge

Class 2 ascent to the ridge

A look back down the route to the saddle

Looking Back at Turrett

Class 2 walk to the ridge (summit is on skyline)

A look down New York Basin


Feel free to ask any questions in the comments and I'll do my best to help out.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Comments or Questions
08/16/2012 19:01
Interesting! Looks like fun!

08/16/2012 19:19
I have always wanted to do this route and spend a few days in New York Basin. When you look at a topo map, New York Creek and Basin look so wild and remote, yet peaceful. It's been a goal of mine for years -- thanks for stoking those fires once again.

Chicago Transplant
Good Stuff
08/16/2012 19:51
Just a note for people interested, NY Basin is the worst bushwhack I have ever done, could not imagine doing it with a full pack. Hopefully the Part 3 TR that gets posted later will include some great images of what to expect in there. The upper part is gorgeous, but you want to get to it from Ruby. Going up from the bridge in Needle Creek would be a nightmare. Tight canyon with short cliffs and waterfalls forcing you back and forth across the creek. Choked with deadfall, and steep side hilling, and we ended up roping up when we descended because we got cliffed out. I know people who have backpacked up it though, they just must have found a better route than us...

New York Basin
08/17/2012 00:33
Chicago -- I assume the approach from Ruby is more reasonable?

08/18/2012 02:21
Thanks Scot....I saw part of that from the L Finger saddle. Next time I'm in Ruby, maybe I'll go up this route.

New York Basin
08/18/2012 03:39
Neil, We actually came over from Chicago Basin to attempt Peak 15. They chose to bail down NYB, I chose this route. Let's just say they chose unwisely. Papillon's TR

The Ruby Basin approach is a hoot, but at least there is a trail. There are a few TRs on Ruby Basin (Mine). 99% of the Pigeon TRs on this site will have that approach.

If you do want to explore New York Basin, I would reach out to Kevin Baker. He managed to hike up that way with, I can only assume, a lot less trouble than Chicago and company found.

08/20/2012 03:55
Floyd, thanks for the information -- very good stuff. A few partners and I are very interested in doing some extended exploring next summer (mainly packing with some hiking/climbing, including Fifteen) in the Needles' more remote basins. New York is on top of that list. In the coming months, I will definitely reach out to Kevin. Thank you again for taking the time to write about this trip.

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