Peak(s):  Mt. Guyot  -  13,370 feet
Date Posted:  09/29/2013
Modified:  08/12/2015
Date Climbed:   09/28/2013
Author:  MountainHiker
 Guyot - East Ridge   

Mount Guyot 13,370' East Ridge.
Mountainhiker, MountainHikerette, Snowball.

The route description for the east ridge of Mount Guyot is basic. Drive to the top of Georgia Pass 11,585', park, and follow the east ridge to the summit.
There is a hint of a trail in places, but most of the route is 2nd class with a few 2+ spots. There is a bunch of rock, some of it loose. This is a summer route.

The summitpost introduction for Mount Guyot explains why not to go this way in winter:
summitpost Mount Guyot

It snowed the day before, and the prediction was for clear all day. So we made it a point to NOT get an early start.

The road from Jefferson to Georgia Pass was snow covered the last mile & half to the summit.
Normally this side of the pass is okay for 2WD, but with the snow I felt better using 4WD. This snow melted during the day.

It didn't look like there was lot of snow on the mountain so we left the Micro-Spikes and ice axes in the Jeep.
The sky was clear but there was a brisk NW wind with a bite. The route starts on a road that peters out above the trees.

Then there's a patch of willows with a couple pseudo trails to push through. Then it's the rocky east ridge.

There are several possible lines. I would avoid getting too far off to one side. The lower ridge is broad and rounded, so there are lots of options.
There are several steep stretches where you can't see up over the next hump.
A lot of the rock will move, so you have to be careful. We had snow between the rocks and several rocks were slippery from melting snow.

Higher up the ridge gets steeper on the sides. The left becomes a cliff so any time you're not on top you will be on the right.

After passing a notch the ridge gets steeper on the right side as well. Several of the rocks will move.

Close to the summit the right has it's own cliff, so the final approach has some exposure.
Here we had some firm snow to climb. This would be a sketchy place with some more wind molded snow.

The summit has a small semi-circle of rock and the remnants of a benchmark. We could see in the snow a party had summited from the west ahead of us.

We didn't stay long on the summit because I didn't want the snow on the final approach to soften before we went back across.

On the way down it was easier to pick the best line on the rock and spot the few bits of path. It was now much warmer than earlier and the wind had died down.
A lot of the snow had melted. We could see the road was now bare. This was a new thirteener for us and it was nice to sleep in before driving to the trailhead!

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