Peak(s):  Lone Eagle Peak - 11900
Limbo - 12400
Iroquois - 12800
Mt. George - 12850
Apache Pk - 13,441 feet
Date Posted:  09/09/2014
Modified:  09/10/2014
Date Climbed:   09/07/2014
Author:  FireOnTheMountain
Additional Members:   Monster5, KMurph147
 Mohling Traverse - An IPW Waste of Time   

The Mohling Traverse - the linkup of Lone Eagle Peak, "Limbo" and "Iroquois". Not only do they top out at an oxygen enriched 12,800 (relatively speaking), but they're not even ranked, and two of them have quotations in their names. Afterthoughts you could say. I'm thinking I probably get more thrill walkin to my mailbox. On second thought, I don't and these peaks are pretty dang sweet.

Mr Bakwin's TR offered some nice beta on his solo outing of Lone Eagle to Apache. We figured maybe if we repeated his day we could be a walrus' whisker as cool as him (one can only aspire.)

The waste of time began at 3:50am from the Long Lake TH. To add to the spirit of pointless adventure, we pointlessly carried 2 30s and a light rack which came out of the pack only to gain access to our water. The three of us (minus Ryan) passed the time talking about the only peaks that matter in the state (Boulder foothill peaks and I guess a couple of those JeffCo ones ) until we found ourselves at Triangle Lake and the start of the convoluted east face of Lone Eagle and its "Solo Flight" 4th class standard route.
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Knew I Would of Been Better Off Sleeping In

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Kasparov Traverse Linking Shoshoni and Apache

In true mountaineering fashion, we set off up the face with resolute confidence and completely off-route, but who cares, the rock was incredible, the sun was out and we were deep in the IPW. Getting back on route, we continued up the face angling north (or climber's right) on a series of benign ledges which were well carined. Making our way to notch in the ridge, we began the zig-zagging downclimb to intersect various exposed ledges strewn across the face. The face offered many somewhat reasonable downclimbs which only led to more "somewhat" reasonable downclimbs and/or cliff outs but with careful route finding making your way down can be kept sensible. I would just advise being comfortable relying solely on friction, small handholds and perhaps leaving the cowboy hat at home for this guy because it does live up to its reputation.

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Once we were about eye level with the beginning of the long knife edge to the summit it became clear the options were to climb up a little and traverse out onto the face meeting up with the ridge or keep Zorroing down. Keegan eyed a harrowing way across and went for it. After toying around with the notion for some time I managed to only pull one of the required moves before psyching myself out and continuing down the ledges. Fail.

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Look back at Keegan's Ride

The climb to the summit was none too serious and the summit itself really neat. We hung out for a little then all descended the standard way off the summit to begin the fun climb back up to the notch which we were now able to B-line more readily.

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From the notch we dropped down on the west face and headed for a very obvious ledge bypassing the super gnar ridge crest. The climb up to Limbo could be kept at Class 3 but we couldn't resist some good clean class 4 moss.

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Traversing Along West Side

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Crater Lake Down Below, Lone Eagle Back Middle Pointy on Ridge

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Climb up Limbo

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Limbo's East Summit (We Tagged both East and West summits), Iroquois in Background

The summit party on Limbo lasted all but 1.5 minutes due to the ominous clouds moving in and light rain falling which left the rocks just moist enough to require a little more due diligence. We also knew that the unknown downclimb/possible rap lay ahead of us en route to the mighty looking Iroquois.

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Descent off Limbo

Arriving at the obvious rappel (25m drop) we began searching for a possible detour. It was apparent the west face was not the way to go however, a promising albeit quite exposed ledge resided on the east face. Think Longs' Broadway with the same exposure (less drop but same outcome), a much trickier bulge to get around and a narrower ledge (maybe 6" wide at its least) to walk across. Super rad. Ryan went first basically crawling under the bulge, Keegan whistled by it 2nd (I think not one thing phased the dude all day) and I went 3rd making it look worse than Ryan.

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Detour, Narrow Ledge and Bulge behind climber, Limbo in Background

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Rappel Point 3/4 of the Way Up the Face

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Climbing up North Face of Iroquois

Making our way up Iroquois we shyed away from the obvious gully shooting up the face as it looked quite awful and enjoyed some really great climbing left of the gully.

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Hopi

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Yes

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Next up was Mt. George and it was apparent we were not off the hook just yet. After some boulder hopping and negotiating deep gashes in the ridge with more friction traversing and downclimbing, we were able to summit Mt. George and descend down to the top of Fair glacier which looked quite healthy with the help of our previous excellent winter.

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Mt George Middle, Hopi Left, Iroquois Wave Crest Right

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Final Scramble Up to Apahce from Top of Fair Glacier, Hint: Don't Take the Gully, eh Ryan?

Arriving at the lofty summit of Apache we were awarded the view from our day's (wasted) work. Across the basin and 1500' down at the end of the ridge was Lone Eagle Peak's summit and between us and it Mohling. We descended the standard east face which can be kept at a rocky and sandy Class 2.

The hike out went fast and the weather was now beautiful. All said and done turned out to be a 12 hour and 45 minute day with 6100 vert and 17ish miles. A truly great awesome day in the IPW!

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Tread Lightly My Friends



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
workmanflock
You're making me miss the Front Range
09/10/2014 12:51
Awesome TR and good job. That was one of a very few things on my to do list I never got around to. Go hit up the Kasparov Traverse if you haven't already.

I may make a special trip back and do this one after reading this.


Dave B
User
Amazing
09/10/2014 13:29
Looks like an awesome day out. Those are some North Cascades looking views right there


jblyth
User
This looks
09/10/2014 14:20
awesome....thanks for posting.


Monster5
User
Needs more selfies
09/10/2014 14:50
You misspelled ”Mohliadial Traverse.” Every single line on or ridge connecting to Apache is quality. Except for the standard route. And that stupid gully. Odd that Apache's actual summit was also by far the lamest of them. Nice write-up and surprising amount of beta

Couple more pics:
Traverse from below


Take that Palisades


jbchalk
User
Pretty slick there, fellas...
09/10/2014 16:04
I need to get in them peaks. Well done.


MtnHub
User
Very nice, guys!!
09/10/2014 17:05
And super shots! Enjoyed it very much! Thanks!


quackquackcolorado
+
09/10/2014 22:35
Nice climb! Those are some gnarly lookin peaks.


PaliKona
Amazing
09/11/2014 01:00
One if my favorite spots, anywhere. Have only camped at the lake, and only have gazed upon those peaks from below and from other vantages. Wow, what a climb.


Monster5
User
Haha
09/12/2014 05:33
Only if you were to ask Goldenites who are Boulder elitists who are making fun of Boulderites about being Jeffco elitists or something like that


goingup
User
this trip report
09/12/2014 15:18
seriously?












.....needs more pictures of wildflowers.

I hear those Jeffco mountains have worthless vertical gain


goingup
User
Can't we just all get along?
09/12/2014 15:22
passiveagression.com


SnowAlien
User
Umm
04/02/2015 19:45
Couldn't those peaks be just a tad higher to make it count? j/k Nice work, Abe & Co.



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