Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,259 feet
Date Posted:  10/06/2020
Date Climbed:   10/04/2020
Author:  MattAdkins204
 Longs via Cables   

Cables 10/04/2020, this comes roughly 3 weeks after the first heavy snow of the season, with warmer temps in weeks leading up to ascent.

Roughly 100m of consolidated snow leading up to the first eye bolt. Easy climbing but can be avoided by climbing dry slab to the right and then traversing left, or by going up to the fin and hugging the ridge. We did not rope up for this section as it was easy snow and about 20 feet of moderate slab/crack system that I used one ice tool in, with minimal fall consequence. Once on cables proper, from the first block up to the second block was mostly dry with some ice in the crack which might make protecting tricky. Webbing tied around second eye bolt but water knot was iffy with almost no tail. From second block up, mostly consolidated snow that climbed easily with one ice tool. Past that, thin ice forced us out to the right onto the slab. Some ice in the final chute made stemming out to the left and up onto the final block kind of awkward but not bad. All together probably went in the vicinity of 5.6/ M2. Past that was fairly easy climbing mostly ranging from 2nd to 3rd class scrambling with a couple 4th class moves that were complicated by the presence of ice and hard pack snow. Down climbing these sections was dicey but doable, having an ice tool to place into cracks made down climbing much easier. On the way down there is an eye bolt that is well above the typical top belay ledge, we sherpa-rapped down this slab to the true belay ledge. 70m rope got us all the way down with the exception of the last 15 feet which had to be down-climbed, essentially that first block/ dihedral you encounter on the way up. Could have anchored at the middle eye bolt and done a second rappel but everyone was comfortable with the short down climb. Bottom eye bolt was buried in snow despite attempts to dig out. We slung a large block with cord and did one final 35m rap. Down climbed the snow field back down to the boulder field.

In picture, yellow represents the line we took. Green is possible alternative lines to avoid snow. Light blue lines are the 3 raps we did.





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