Peak(s):  "The Citadel"  -  13,294 feet
Date Posted:  09/13/2021
Date Climbed:   09/12/2021
Author:  Tim Fab
 Southeast Ridge- You don't have to suffer the gully!   

So we hiked The Citadel from the Dry Gulch, and it was a really cool hike. This same route detail applies if you hike if from Herman gulch and head up the South side saddle from the basin to approach the summit block from the East ridge. Its a beautiful mountain.

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When you begin the wrap around the south side of the East summit, you will see two chimneys. The first is class 5, the second is class 4 with some loose rock as seen in the below picture. One person took this route and said there is some loose rock but its a fine scramble if you check holds. It looked like a fun alternative to get right up the East summit.

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Now I wanted to make this report because if you like class 3+ scrambling and dislike loose terrible gullies- Don't take the gully! It seems to be the standard for this route from what I've seen online, but the left side of the gully has plenty of options for more stable rock if you are fine with class 3/class 4 short sections.


21364_01The red is right up the gully, while the left side offers some solid scrambling up to the West summit.

From where this picture was taken of a climber in the gully, there is a way to go down the ridge to the right further before dropping into the bottom of the gully using more stable rock.

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Overall this was an awesome and relatively mellow day with awesome summits and views!

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21364_06 Shout-out to the other group that snapped this photo of me! In case you see this, here is another I found of your group, but its harder to make out the climbers since its not a silhouette like this one.

21364_07 Climber in orange center, in white blending in with sky on the right most bump.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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