Peak(s):  Mt. Eva  -  13,130 feet
Parry Peak A  -  13,391 feet
Mt. Bancroft  -  13,250 feet
Date Posted:  10/04/2021
Date Climbed:   10/03/2021
Author:  habaceeba
 Eva E Ridge variation   

I have had the Eva, Parry, Bancroft loop on my list for some time and today I needed something close to home. It turned out to be a nice day with an alternate east ridge route up Mt. Eva.

Not enjoying uphill at the end of the day, I designed a loop that started from Fall River Reservoir. After sleeping in I was on my way up the trail at 9:30am. Parking just below the dam of Fall River Res, I started a bushwhack up the hill towards Chinn's Lake. I found a faded trail post near the dam but only found faint braided trails up the hill that ended abruptly after 50'. The creek from Chinn's Lake to Fall River is a big gouge in the hillside. I stayed to the east of it. After negotiating some minor deadfall I was quickly at Chinn's Lake.

I stayed on the north side of the lake and followed a descent trail that led to the upper parking lot between and to the north of Chinn's Lake and Sherwin Lake. I then continued on the north shore of Sherwin Lake to a boulder strewn stream and quickly lost the trail. Trailfinding was not my strong suit this day. I picked my way up to Slater Lake on an in-and-out trail and made my way to the north end of it.

From here the plan was to use the series of gullies that have been used before to gain the ridge, but they looked intimidating from this vantage. I should have had a closer look, but instead I decided to give up on the east ridge and just go up the valley to the (yawn) saddle between Eva and Witter/Flora for just a boring hike.

Gullies to gain the east ridge
Slater Lake

After calling my point of contact to inform of my new decision, I ascending above the lake and across the barely flowing southern arm of Fall River and up above a small band of boulders.

South Fork Fall River raging down to Clear Creek

Once there, I had another look at the east ridge and my eyes immediately caught the line of willows practically pointing the way up to the ridge. It looked steep but manageable.

Steep grassy slope to the ridge

After annoying my point of contact with another call, I commenced to willow bash for about 150 feet, up the grassy ramp in the foreground, across a short scree gully to the grassy slope. Once headed up, the slope quickly steepened. It was the kind of place you don't want to fall, so I was careful of my balance with every step. The steepness does not relent after exiting past the willows and I had to take care of my foot placement there too, especially since there is a cliff band just below. It wasn't long before I was on the ridgeline and headed west.

After walking over a small rise, I quickly encountered a steep cliff.

Steep cliff blocking easy progress

The obstacle presented an inviting rocky gully to climber's left, but I didn't know how it topped out so I opted for the conservative choice to move around to the south side of the ridge. After a few hundred yards I found a class 2+ slope to ascend back to the ridgeline.

A look back down the ridge to the lakes

The steady cold NNW wind had me bundled up at this point, just before the last pitch to the summit of Eva. The last 350' to the summit was fun and offered light scrambling. Always check your holds, but theentire portion of the ridge that I ascended was really solid. Despite missing the originally intended gullies, this ridge is a lot of fun.

Once on the summit of Mt. Eva I snapped a few photos and headed to the rest of the days objectives.

Mt. Eva summit pano
Grays & Torreys and friends

The rest of the day above treeline was straightforward tundra hiking. I only found trails periodically, which surprised me. I tried to stay on rock as much as possible to avoid the abundant tundra plants.

Parry Peak summit pano

I saw some out of the ordinary wildlife on Bancroft. At the saddle with Parry, a golden eagle flew over. It was the first I had ever seen. I didn't get a chance to snap a photo. Then 100' from the summit of Bancroft was a ladybug. I thought that was unusual for October. Then on the way down I saw a little brown ermine in a talus field.

Mt. Bancroft summit pano

The descent route took me down the gentle east ridge of Mt. Bancroft to a low saddle just above treeline. There is a gully that runs straight down into the trees. It steepens considerably towards the bottom. The forest below is thin and I found it easy to make it down to the dam of Fall River Reservoir and back to my vehicle. It was a nice day out with lots of sunshine and fall colors. This route makes for a nice loop.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
3 4 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Comments or Questions
Great Day!
10/14/2021 09:14
Brings back some memories of 20 years ago. I went from Parry to Witter that day long ago and descended to Chinn's Lake. I remember that road to Fall River Res being very rough. I bet it hasn't changed much. Such a dramatic view into the upper Fraser River Valley. Could you imagine climbing up those slopes in that thick forest to get these peaks? GASP!

I know
10/17/2021 18:33
That would be a tough ascent getting up there from the west. That said, the forest on that side is one of the healthiest I've seen in Colorado, so deadfall might be minimal. It would definitely be a steady grunt.

   Not registered?

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

© 2023®, 14ers Inc.