Peak(s):  Blanca Peak  -  14,350 feet
Date Posted:  08/06/2022
Date Climbed:   08/01/2022
Author:  Paul M
 Blanca NW face   

Blanca Peak has become quite possibly my favorite 14er climb out of the 13 that I've so far completed. But I also think that, while it is certainly not one of the toughest 14ers, it's a little more difficult than it's usually made out to be. Here's my trip report from climbing the peak on 8/1/22:

First things first, I had to get up the Lake Como road. I rented a 4WD vehicle and drove slowly up to about 9500 feet. I could have gone about a 1/2 mile farther, and I wish I had! Hiking up the road with an overnight pack on was the most difficult part of the whole climb. Hiking 3 miles up the road doesn't sound far, but it is nearly all uphill over rough terrain, and it's a slog. The road crosses Holbrook Creek roughly halfway up, and this crossing, while not wide, was running fast and deep the days I was up there. There's no way to get across without wading through knee-deep water, so I highly recommend bringing along some alternate shoes to keep your hiking boots / socks dry. I changed into shoes meant for water, hiked up my pants, and waded across, then put my hiking boots and socks back on once my feet had dried.

Upon at last reaching Lake Como, I found a nice campsite on the far side of the lake. (It was Sunday night: I'd imagine everything's more crowded on weekends.)

21804_01

After a comfortable night under the brightest stars I've ever seen, I woke up once it got light and hit the trail at 6:00. The road continues beyond the lake, and is the first part of the trail.

21804_02
On the road beyond the lake: The headwall between Ellingwood and Blanca looms.

Beyond that, the road eventually fades and become a trail. Now, some 14ers are more rugged than others, and Blanca is relatively rugged. The trail is mostly a cairned route over rough rocky ground, even here before you reach the headwall.

21804_03
Road is ending: the trail will wind up the steep cliff to the left of the waterfall.

This basin is a remarkably beautiful place. You'll pass by lake after lake as you climb higher, each connected by streams and waterfalls.

21804_04
Waterfall
21804_05
One of the many lakes

The path, already steep, becomes steeper and more rugged as you reach the base of the headwall. Follow cairns up beyond the ledges to the saddle far above. Supposedly, the route to Ellingwood branches left from this area, but it was not cairned or marked in any way that I could see. The path led to the Blanca (right) side of the saddle.

Once you're up to the saddle, the tough part is done. Also the views in all directions are incredible. On this day, a number of people had hiked up here to the saddle with no intention of continuing to the summit.

21804_06
View from the saddle

Looking up Blanca's ridge from the saddle is imposing, to say the least. The ridge looks rugged and steep. Though the steepness is impossible to get across in photos, it's very noticeable when you're there in person.

21804_07
Looking up the ridge from near the saddle.

Despite the appearance, though, Blanca's ridge from here is smooth, fluid scrambling all the way to the summit. I was surprised to find that this was the easiest part of the climb, easier than the long scamper up the headwall or the haul up the nasty mining road.

21804_08
View of Mt. Lindsey from the saddle - I could even see the trail I had ascended the year before!

After the very beginning of the ridge, I found it easiest to stay directly on top of the ridge crest. No sketchy moves, no unpleasant towers or notches, just lovely smooth class 2+ or 3 scrambling all the way to the summit. And the views all around are absolutely incredible.

21804_09
Higher on the ridge, looking up
21804_10
Nearing the summit

Somewhat near the summit, there was a cairn off to the right of the ridge, and another cairn or two beyond it, leading around the mountain beneath the summit. I followed them, figuring it was the easiest way and that it might lead to a gully or something. Nope, the cairns dead-ended in a spot with no simple way to continue upward. I made my way back to the ridge and scrambled straight up it, which was much easier and put me on the summit in no time. I'm not sure what those cairns were for, but when you climb Blanca, ignore them! Just continue on the ridge crest.

On the summit, there's so much to see. Blanca is the 4th highest mountain in Colorado, and the highest in its range, towering ~300 feet over its neighbors Ellingwood, Lindsey, and Little Bear. You can examine the route over to Ellingwood and the seriously nasty traverse to Little Bear.

Views from the summit:

21804_11
21804_12
21804_13
21804_15
21804_17

I had intended to traverse over to Ellingwood this day. But between my long slog up the Lake Como road the night before and the long climb to Blanca's summit, I was really, really wiped out. I'd been having trouble catching my breath, even more than usual at high elevation. Maybe I hadn't acclimated enough? Either way, I felt lousy. Unfortunately, Ellingwood would have to wait.

The scramble back down the ridge was even more fun than the ascent because of the wide-open views directly in front of me! Then began the long trek back down the headwall, the rough trail, and the descent of the Lake Como Road after packing up my campsite.

Blanca is a wonderful climb - challenging without being prohibitive, and with a finish up a stunning ridge that make the long approach more than worthwhile! It has vaulted its way into my very favorite 14er climbs, up there with the stunning treks up Longs and Snowmass. However, I think it's important to note that this climb is more difficult than it's usually made out to be. The Roach book puts the distance from Lake Como to the summit and back at 4.6 miles. My map showed something slightly higher but close, more like 4.8 miles. But despite starting on the near (to Blanca) side of Lake Como, my GPS recorded the hike from tent to summit to tent at 7 miles. Yes, I mentioned getting mislead by some screwy cairns near the summit, but that put me off route by 100 yards at most. This route is LONGER than what you've read. And while 2+ extra miles doesn't sound like that much, it is when the entire hike is on boulders and very little of it is on what you would normally call a trail. Keep this in mind!

I would also question the rating of this route. The Roach book says class 2; 14ers.com says 2+. But I'd peg it as more like class 3, on the headwall and especially on the ridge. I climbed another 2+ route 2 days later (Castle/Conundrum) which I would agree with its rating. This one? I'm not sure. Something to think about if you're planning this route!




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17


Comments or Questions
greenonion
User
Great report!
08/10/2022 14:06
Great write-up and photos!


Lgrimes
Route
08/19/2022 19:00
Hi there! Very helpful. Gonna try to attempt next week if the weather holds. Got any reco for 4wd rental? Also have you found any reliable site for route info? Seems you found errors in some reports and I‘d love to avoid any wrong turns.



   Not registered?


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

© 2022 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.