Peak(s):  Apache Peak  -  13,441 feet
Date Posted:  06/25/2007
Date Climbed:   06/23/2007
Author:  roozers42
 Queen‘s Way on Apache Peak   

On Saturday, I helped co-lead a snow climb up Queen's Way on Apache Peak with the CMC. The Indian Peaks Wilderness is one of my favorite places to hike in Colorado and I was excited to climb another 13er in the area.

We started hiking at the Niwot Cutoff Trail (Long Lake and Mitchell Lake TH's are still gated) at 6am. We followed the Long Lake trail to Isabelle Lake and then continued on to Isabelle Glacier.

Isabelle Lake and the surrounding Peaks - Navajo, Apache, and Shoshoni.

Queen's Way is the center couloir that angles left in this picture

We put on crampons and took out our ice axes around 11,400 and climbed up onto the glacier and into the couloir.

Looking up Queen's Way - this picture makes it look steeper than it really is.

Climbing at the base of the couloir.

Roach says the angle reaches 35 degrees and it seemed like a very mellow, moderate climb. The snow was perfect and we had nice, large steps all the way up. The couloir ends at 13,000 and we decided to take off our crampons and rock-hop to the summit. You could link another snow section, but we decided it was more trouble than it was worth. The talus on the way to the summit was mostly stable if you stayed on the large pieces.
We had extraordinary weather and were actually wishing for a bit more wind to cool us off.

Me on the summit with North Arapaho in the background.

The snow had softened up a bit when we reached the couloir, but it still provided an excellent glissade - from 13,000 all the way back down to 11,400 (with a bit of walking on the flat parts). If anyone is looking to get out and do a moderate snow climb, this one is definitely still in great shape!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
06/25/2007 21:01
Tom Crosman led the trip (Todd Nelson had to cancel, it was his trip originally).

Looks fun!
08/28/2008 00:37
Looks like you had a fine day out on a fun route! Curious which CMCer led this trip?

Love a good glissade
01/19/2011 03:38
I have always wondered what the buzz about IPW was... Now I get it! Great job, Roozers.

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